HELP!!! I bought new tower speakers and an amp...now what?

I have a 2005 Moomba Möbius LSV. My son just got a summer internship working for Harman just in time to qualify for their bi-annual sale at some ridiculous prices. Harman has access to quite a few companies that sell sound hardware. One of which is JBL. So, I decided to purchase a pair of tower speakers and an amp for my Moomba. Let me say that I have very little stereo knowledge and now feel that I might have bit off more than I can chew.

They’re all by JBL products as follows:

Speakers - 8” 150Wrms, 450W peak, 4 ohms
Amp - 5 channel, 1800W peak

I’m hoping it’s enough for a decent system.


Now the problem. I didn’t realize what I was getting myself into. LOL. After receiving the goods I started looking into how to install them and came up with a bunch of questions. Some of which are:
1) Can I connect this amp to my existing speakers and my new tower speakers? If not, how would the sound be if I only used the tower speakers? Or do I need a 2nd amp for my existing speakers?
2) I need to purchase a new stereo unit that has blue tooth capability...and recommendations? I have a lot of CD’s also and wouldn’t mind being able to play them also. (I know, I know...old school here. LOL.)
3) Can I do all this on one battery, or should I really have two? And it so, this will create a whole new list of questions like how to wire, switch/link, location, etc.
4) What wire gauge for the speakers? I bought some 16 gauge, but after multiple searches it looks like I might need something heavier like 12 gauge?
5) How and wear to mount the amp(s)?

Anything you all can do to help guide me to completion will be greatly appreciated. And warm weather is due here in Michigan soon!

Thanx!

Where are you in MI? I might be able to help.


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Originally Posted by Stazi

Where are you in MI? I might be able to help.


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I live in Novi, but my Moomba is up North by Hale.

I’m in Commerce Twp. So super close.


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Originally Posted by Stazi

I’m in Commerce Twp. So super close.


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Any advice would be appreciated.

Do you know what model amp it is?
Sounds like it might have 4 channels and a sub channel which would be good for in boats and a sub. But it might work for towers.


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It’s a JBL Marine amp MA4505 w/ 5 channels.

Looks like you could run it bridges at 4Ωx2 and get 130W per channel. Should work.

It’s really meant for the in boats and a sub but you could use it for the towers. Personally I’d use it for the in boats, add a sub and buy another amp to run the towers. Then you would have a fully kick ass sound system.


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Originally Posted by Stazi

Looks like you could run it bridges at 4Ωx2 and get 130W per channel. Should work.

It’s really meant for the in boats and a sub but you could use it for the towers. Personally I’d use it for the in boats, add a sub and buy another amp to run the towers. Then you would have a fully kick ass sound system.


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I’m not what “bridges at 4 x 2” means. I would prefer not to dump more money into it if I can. I would think these speakers and amp would be a HUGE improvement over what I have now...would you agree?

You could make it work. You just need someone who knows how to wire it up.

If you get the boat back to Novi, let me know.


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Bridging the amp into to 3 chnl mode would leave the in-boats out of the mix, as it would be driving a woofer and a single pair of tower speakers.

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Originally Posted by MLA

Bridging the amp into to 3 chnl mode would leave the in-boats out of the mix, as it would be driving a woofer and a single pair of tower speakers.

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Yep.

I think he’d be better off with one of these:
https://www.jbl.com/marine-audio/JBL...GLOBAL-Current

He’d have to buy a sub in a box like this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-VJ5NDR...LhAaAhK68P8HAQ
but you could have the whole system up and running and sounding way better.


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Originally Posted by Stazi

Looks like you could run it bridges at 4Ωx2 and get 130W per channel. Should work.


It’s really meant for the in boats and a sub but you could use it for the towers. Personally I’d use it for the in boats, add a sub and buy another amp to run the towers. Then you would have a fully kick ass sound system.


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Thank you for your responses.

So are you suggesting I bridge four channels into two, and then use those to power the two new tower speakers? If so, how would I power the existing in boat speakers? Or do I just run them direct to the receiver?

Again, thank you for your help.

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Originally Posted by Stazi

Yep.

I think he’d be better off with one of these:
https://www.jbl.com/marine-audio/JBL...GLOBAL-Current

He’d have to buy a sub in a box like this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-VJ5NDR...LhAaAhK68P8HAQ
but you could have the whole system up and running and sounding way better.


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Are you suggesting I add this amp for my current in-boat speakers, and bridge the amp I already have for my new tower speakers?

Would I then have to upgrade my current in-boat speakers also?

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Originally Posted by MLA

Bridging the amp into to 3 chnl mode would leave the in-boats out of the mix, as it would be driving a woofer and a single pair of tower speakers.

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That’s what I thought. Thank you for clarifying for me.

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Originally Posted by Moomba Dad

Are you suggesting I add this amp for my current in-boat speakers, and bridge the amp I already have for my new tower speakers?

Would I then have to upgrade my current in-boat speakers also?

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No...the other way around. The amp you bought is meant for the in boats (cabin speakers) and a sub. Hence why it has 5 channels. 4 regular full range speakers and 1 sub (low freq only). You can run 6 in boaters on it and sub, too (the 2 bow speakers on 2 of the channels and the 4 from the cockpit area, bridged, and running on the remaining 2 channels). That is what I am doing with my 5-channel Kicker amp (Kicker KX800.5)

Then I said to get a second amp, which I posted a link for, to be dedicated JUST for the towers. The amp I posted also has more power for those 2 tower speakers, then the amp you already have, AND it will produce a cleaner more power sound from the towers.


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Originally Posted by Stazi

No...the other way around. The amp you bought is meant for the in boats (cabin speakers) and a sub. Hence why it has 5 channels. 4 regular full range speakers and 1 sub (low freq only). You can run 6 in boaters on it and sub, too (the 2 bow speakers on 2 of the channels and the 4 from the cockpit area, bridged, and running on the remaining 2 channels). That is what I am doing with my 5-channel Kicker amp (Kicker KX800.5)

Then I said to get a second amp, which I posted a link for, to be dedicated JUST for the towers. The amp I posted also has more power for those 2 tower speakers, then the amp you already have, AND it will produce a cleaner more power sound from the towers.


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OOOOkay. Gotcha!

So will this amp for my existing in-boat speakers be overpowering for them? Could they blow?

Also, is there a way to adjust the volume of the in-boat speakers and volume of the tower speakers independently? I would think this is a common concern.

Thank you again for your help! I really appreciate it.

It’s better to have more power than needed, than not enough. Also you always want to look at RMS power, not peak. And that amp you have now is designed with a regular boat setup in mind.

When you run too small an amp and then try to crank up the volume, your amp with start to clip the signal and that’s what destroys speakers.

Yes, you can set up the gains on each of the amps to set the volume separately to the tower and the in boats and that will keep that ratio the same.

Now, if you want to be able to constantly adjust the volume from the towers or the in boats, then you would need to get a zone controller. If you don’t care and can live with the towers always louder than the inboats then you can skip the zone controller.




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Originally Posted by Stazi

It’s better to have more power than needed, than not enough. Also you always want to look at RMS power, not peak. And that amp you have now is designed with a regular boat setup in mind.

When you run too small an amp and then try to crank up the volume, your amp with start to clip the signal and that’s what destroys speakers.

Yes, you can set up the gains on each of the amps to set the volume separately to the tower and the in boats and that will keep that ratio the same.

Now, if you want to be able to constantly adjust the volume from the towers or the in boats, then you would need to get a zone controller. If you don’t care and can live with the towers always louder than the inboats then you can skip the zone controller.




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I think I'll try it without a zone controller first to see how it performs. I'll have to look into how to set up the gains on the amps. It looks like there are some "Gains" dials that will need adjusting.

Thank you again for all of your guidance It's very helpful.

A couple more quick items (1) can I run all of this on one battery, or should I consider two?; (2) If two, could you suggest the type of battery and link/shut off hardware that I'll need please; and (3) what type of fuses/breakers work best for my amps? (It looks like I'll need a 100A and a 60A.)

Thanx again for your time & your help!

Definitely get a zone controller. Best thing I did for my sound system. Every song is different, I'm constantly adjusting my sub output, and turning down the towers when nobody is behind the boat is nice.

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Originally Posted by Shoebox

Definitely get a zone controller. Best thing I did for my sound system. Every song is different, I'm constantly adjusting my sub output, and turning down the towers when nobody is behind the boat is nice.

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Sounds like it might be a good idea. Any suggestions on the hardware? What make/model did you install?

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Originally Posted by Moomba Dad

Sounds like it might be a good idea. Any suggestions on the hardware? What make/model did you install?

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I have the Exile ZLD, and added their Bluetooth module. I never use my head unit anymore. Wet Sounds has a good one, too, the WS-420.

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Originally Posted by Shoebox

I have the Exile ZLD, and added their Bluetooth module. I never use my head unit anymore. Wet Sounds has a good one, too, the WS-420.

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Cool, Thanx!

Stazi,

I have a couple more questions for you if you don't mind addressing them.

I think I'll try it without a zone controller first to see how it performs. I'll have to look into how to set up the gains on the amps. It looks like there are some "Gains" dials that will need adjusting.

A couple more quick items (1) can I run all of this on one battery, or should I consider two?; (2) If two, could you suggest the type of battery and link/shut off hardware that I'll need please; and (3) what type of fuses/breakers work best for my amps? (It looks like I'll need a 100A and a 60A.)

Thanx again for your time & your help!

You CAN run off one battery, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Especially if you want to spend any time just sitting with the engine off and the stereo on. The last thing you want to do is drain the one and only battery you have and not be able to start the boat.

Go buy another 24 series “deep cycle” marine battery and use that for just the stereo components.

I use a battery doctor to connect the two batteries together so that they can both be charged by the alternator, but only the secondary battery is used for the stereo and it preserves the primary battery for the boat and those main necessities. With this you do NOT need any extra switches etc. just follow the wiring diagram included with it. It works awesome and you never have to worry about what battery is switched on or off like you do with Perko switches.
WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK..._QY..Cb98TWVZE

You will also need a set of wires and fuses etc. for connecting up the 2 Amps to the stereo and speakers etc. Check out the links I provided.
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII..._A4..CbA8HBMNR this kit is for ONE amp.

Also you need a set of RCA splitters to split you signal from your stereo to the two amps if your head unit only has one set of RCA outputs.
4 Pack 1 Female to 2 Male RCA Y Adapter Connector and 1 Male to 2 Female RCA Speaker Splitter Shielding Cable Adapter 1ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KBVDBL3..._l7..Cb2EDW1VW

Again if you get you boat down to Novi, I can show you the way.



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I'm looking into a zone controller (equalizer) and keep hearing about the Wet Sounds WS-420BT - Marie Audio Multi Zone Equalizer with Integrated Bluetooth.

But the price on my project just keeps escalating. Is there anything out there similar to the Wet Sounds that's not so expensive?

Thank you in advance.

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Originally Posted by Moomba Dad

I'm looking into a zone controller (equalizer) and keep hearing about the Wet Sounds WS-420BT - Marie Audio Multi Zone Equalizer with Integrated Bluetooth.

But the price on my project just keeps escalating. Is there anything out there similar to the Wet Sounds that's not so expensive?

Thank you in advance.

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Exile ZLD. No mic but works great and cheaper than Wet Sounds.

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Originally Posted by Moomba Dad

I'm looking into a zone controller (equalizer) and keep hearing about the Wet Sounds WS-420BT - Marie Audio Multi Zone Equalizer with Integrated Bluetooth.

But the price on my project just keeps escalating. Is there anything out there similar to the Wet Sounds that's not so expensive?

Thank you in advance.

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Like Shoebox mentioned, the ZLD is you next best option but you do lose some key features such as the mic, the ability to adjust the eq on each zone independently, and the BT function. Exile also sells a tower volume knob by itself for like $60 so that may be a good budget option.

Shoebox & rdlangston3,

First, thank you both for responding! I really appreciate it.

I guess I should explain my wishes/needs to help clarify what I want. I will have (a) the existing in-boat speakers, (b) two new JBL 8" tower speakers, and (c) a new 12" JBL sub woofer. I would like to adjust the volume each of the three separately. If I want to take a mellow cruise around the lake at sunset and listen to some music I want to be able to do it without blasting my tower speakers and subwoofer. But, I do have two sons (ages 23 & 21) that will love to do the opposite. LOL. I would think this is a common idea?

I'm not sure if I need a simple 3-zone volume control (or if they even are available). Do I need to be able to adjust the eq on each zone indepenently? Keep in mind I am "not" an audiophile...at least net yet, I might be though if I ever complete this project. LOL.

So, based on that which hardware do you think will fit my needs?

Thank you again!

Get the ZLD and Bluetooth adapter. Works great, can control all zones independently, and cheaper than WS.

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Originally Posted by Shoebox

Get the ZLD and Bluetooth adapter. Works great, can control all zones independently, and cheaper than WS.

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It looks like the ZLD goes for about $300. Where do you suggest I buy from?

Thank you!

Contact Exile direct via their website. They might even have some demo deals for you.

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Originally Posted by BigOrange

Contact Exile direct via their website. They might even have some demo deals for you.

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I see they sell it with a kit, but are back ordered for 2-3 weeks.

Call their number from the website and speak to Brian or Donovan direct. They might have one in stock.

I have some questions regarding the Exile ZLD. I'm only planning on having two amps: one for the tower, and one for the cabin/subwoofer. The exile ZLD has three zones: one for the tower, one for the cabin and one for the subwoofer. How would I connect this considering I only have two amps? Do I really need this since I only have two amps? Is there a decent zone controller out there that's designed for only two zones that might work better with my application and maybe cost less $?

Thank you.

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Originally Posted by Moomba Dad

I have some questions regarding the Exile ZLD. I'm only planning on having two amps: one for the tower, and one for the cabin/subwoofer. The exile ZLD has three zones: one for the tower, one for the cabin and one for the subwoofer. How would I connect this considering I only have two amps? Do I really need this since I only have two amps? Is there a decent zone controller out there that's designed for only two zones that might work better with my application and maybe cost less $?

Thank you.

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What amp do you have for the cabins/sub? This assumes you have a 5-channel amp with separate inputs/outputs for cabins and sub.

You have one output from the stereo into the ZLD, and one input from the Bluetooth adapter. You have 3 outputs, one to tower amp, one to cabin input on the 5-channel amp and one to the sub input.

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Originally Posted by Shoebox

What amp do you have for the cabins/sub? This assumes you have a 5-channel amp with separate inputs/outputs for cabins and sub.

You have one output from the stereo into the ZLD, and one input from the Bluetooth adapter. You have 3 outputs, one to tower amp, one to cabin input on the 5-channel amp and one to the sub input.

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This is what I have:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-GUAUj2...caAofmEALw_wcB

It’s a JBL 5 channel amp.

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Originally Posted by Moomba Dad

This is what I have:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-GUAUj2...caAofmEALw_wcB

It’s a JBL 5 channel amp.

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Perfect, so you wire it into 3 zones, with the tower amp.

ZLD is awesome! Being able to adjust the independent zones to your musical liking is fantastic.

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Originally Posted by Shoebox

Perfect, so you wire it into 3 zones, with the tower amp.

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Originally Posted by Kirby

ZLD is awesome! Being able to adjust the independent zones to your musical liking is fantastic.

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Great! I'm excited about getting what it'll sound like when I'm done. But getting to that point is going to be a struggle. LOL.