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Just curious what you guys think about these 2 options. Fake a lake would be cheaper and no cutting the water lines in the boat. I would be afraid to suck air if the seal wasn't good enough. The fresh water flush kit seems like it would be more reliable but possibility of leaks. It also has a 1 way valve which could require the water pump to suck harder than in the lake causing additional strain on the pump. Any experience with either?
Thanks
I got a Fake-A-Lake from Wakemakers...super simple to use. It's basically a plunger on a telescoping pole and has female hose connector.
I make sure it's wedged in there good, turn on the hose, crank the boat....easy peasy.
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I prefer not climbing underneath the boat and getting soaked. It's cheaper for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Hinojosa
The flush option is just eaiser, connect the hose and go.
You can go to home depot and buy some hose and make an adapter to connect it to the garden hose. Just remove the intake line and stick your hose on. There are no issues with using a flush kit.
This was like 20$, don't think pics are working anymore.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7KqEKuHRbyYnfG5u7
Fake a lake is super easy. I turn the water to the hose after the hookup and you can tell if the suction is good before you fire up the motor.
Do you guys use the fake a lake to run antifreeze thru when winterizing ? Can you use the fake a lake to run antifreeze thru the ballast system as well?
plus one on this questionQuote:
Originally Posted by justflyinglow
My 98 Mobius DD is super easy to get to the 1" fresh water line. I went to Ace and got a 1" PVC threaded adapter and a brass garden hose adapter. Put them together, remove 2 hose clamps and hook up the garden hose. Easy Peasy and cost around $5. I just drain everything in the fall (no antifreeze). I don't have any ballast bags hooked up (yet).
https://i.postimg.cc/XYzYzsXM/20190514-105546.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/25LSRnB1/20190514-105606.jpg
On my direct drive, I had a TEE ball valve that bypassed the thru hull on the bottom of the boat. On my Vdrive, I have a Flush Pro. Not going to ever mess with a fake-a-lake. With my luck, I'd get on the boat and my body weight would make enough difference to shift the boat's weight on the trailer and have it slip off. It's just so much easier to screw into the flush pro.
But if I didn't have a flush pro, I'd be putting in another ball valve. How hard is that? 2 Barb fittings to allow the TEE to go inline on the intake hose, and then screw in the garden hose to the other (or put in a fitting that accepts a garden hose if the thread pattern isn't right).
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1y2ora...pg_640x640.jpg
I spent the money for the Indmar piece. Love the fact that it's super easy to use AND you can watch the water being pulled into the system from inside the boat.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/nC4AA...bN/s-l1600.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/p/Indmar-49-900...d=372411255092
Also,
Here's the thread from this forum:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....r-sea-strainer
The Indmar piece comes in 2 styles: angle (90')-fitting and straight-fitting.
Do your Flush Pro have the SS clamp in the middle? I read about the earlier model with plastic tabs, which sounds like they could be subject to break.Quote:
Originally Posted by trayson
I'd have to look. I haven't had any trouble with mine and the boat's a 2008.Quote:
Originally Posted by MJHSupra
Some of the guys on the MC forum were using them. That is where I read about it. Wanted to pass it along.Quote:
Originally Posted by trayson
Do you need high water pressure for the flush kit to work? My experience of various methods of flushing are that the raw water pump can pull quite a vacuum so just wondering if there are issues keeping the ball valve in place with lower water pressure. As where I keep my boat the pressure can fluctuate quite a lot. I have always wanted to fit a flush pro but haven’t for that reason.
Bingo. Really like to glance back and confirm waters in there before cranking and while it's running.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentC5Z
No, Larry from Indmar actually said 1/2-3/4 of a normal outdoor spigot is plenty (and it is from my experience)Quote:
Originally Posted by STX
Yes you can. Get a 5 gal bucket and install a spigot at the bottom, set it on the swim step and connect the hose to the fake a lake.Quote:
Originally Posted by justflyinglow
For the ballast system I just make sure there's no water in the pumps.
Also,Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoebox
I've always ran the engine on the water hose long enough for it to reach temperature so the thermostat opens. Then hook to the antifreeze source. Otherwise, you will only winterize the v-drive, & exhaust.
Don't even need the spigot, it will suck the bucket dry just by putting the hose in the bucket, just close the intake valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoebox
No it won't, not enough suction. It needs the pressure through the spigot to get it primed.Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
You need to close the valve, mine sucks the antifreeze from the bucket from underneath the exhaust thru 20ft of hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoebox
If you don't close the valve or have one then you gotta do gravity feed.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VDTTJ8jmxr3659xd9
Close what valve?Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
The raw water intake valve, follow the hose from the flush kit to the hull, there should be a ball valve. Be sure to reopen it after your done. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoebox
Now you wont have to carry a bucket of coolant inside your boat.
I'm talking about using a fake a lake, not a flush kit. Using the fake a lake, there is not enough suction to siphon through the hose unless the hose is already full - hence the need to set the bucket on the swim step and use a spigot. No buckets of coolant inside the boat, either.Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
Ahh... That's why I don't recommend fake a lakes. Instead just connect to the garden hose to the water intake hose, use the same hose for cooling and then antifreeze.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoebox
Does the thermostat doing anything in a closed cooling system (half system) as far as winterizing? The thermostat controls the antifreeze/ water mixture(50% each) which is in a closed loop.You need to test the mixture for proper freezing point but that should be all? The antifreeze you are adding to the engine eliminates water from the heat exchanger and exhaust manifold and replaces it with the antifreeze. I am still trying to figure this all out myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentC5Z
You don't need to use antifreeze with the closed cooling system. You just need to drain the water from the heat exchanger system. It's pretty simple now, just 3 twist plugs to remove and 1 hose connector. Don't even have to do anything for the heater either.Quote:
Originally Posted by justflyinglow