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I’m thinking about going with a jl 12w7 powered by the m1000/1 since it can go to 3 ohms and it’s very budget friendly. I’ve seen some videos of setups done by liquid rides and it seems to be pretty rocking. I’m just wondering though is it enough power since it drops to 800 watts? Also pros and cons of dry cell batteries vs deep cycle? Btw it’s going in a 2019 mojo that will be here shortly
800 is also the spec at 14.5. Drops to 650 at engine off battery voltage. Honestly, id go with the 12W6D4 with the M1000/1. With those 3 ohm specs, you are not getting the return on investment with the 12W7.
If the boat has the OEM installed charger, you are going to be limited to a small Ah house bank, whether wet cell or AGM.
If your plan is to drop anchor and crank the tunes for hours upon hours, drawing down the house bank, an AGM will live longer with repeated deep cycles. For normal cruising and an occasional anchor time, then a wet cell will serve you well.
rpk, I would agree 100% with mla on the sub choice. I had jl 12w6's in my supra and first tige and LOVED that sub. the current boat has a 13w7 in it and it's friggin massive, eats up most of the storage under the jockey box and weighs as much as a teenager. frankly I'd swap it for a 12w6 if I knew someone that would so i could get it back under the helm.
12w6 is a pretty easy sub to stuff under the helm and at the party cove, we rocked pretty hard using an arc audio amp in a sealed box. iirc it was a ks1200.1
I’m personally trying to get the water shaking, the 12w6 was probably plan c, with plan b being either an hd 1200/1 or Shash 1200/1 on the 13w7, but I see a lot of you guys on hear talking about how good the w6 is but I’ve also heard 1 w7 is louder than 2 but I’ve personally only heard Rockford and wetsounds in boats.
if you want to shake the water the w7 will do it fo sho. it's a very large speaker and tradeoff will be lack of storage.
if you're near las vegas, buy a 12w6 and I'll gladly give you my 13w7 :) it's coming out at the end of the season when I FINALLY have a garage to work on the sound system in.
You are looking at the right woofer, but wrong amp. The 12w7 certainly has an excursion advantage over the 12w6, but with only 800W rms to the 12w7, you may not really take advantage of that extra excursion. It power to move and control the woofer.Quote:
Originally Posted by rpk2016
Stretch the budget and go with an amp thats going to deliver at least 1200W rms to the w7. 1600 would be even better.
Stretching the budget was what I was trying to avoid�� any stereo shops in the Texas Arkansas area that might have some demos? Who knows the w6 seems to please 90% of people on the forums seem to be happy with the w6 but I also see people who want a lot more. I just don’t know yet because I haven’t heard any besides free air subs and rockfords
I would but I’m in texas and I wish I had your skills to do the the stereo myself or stretching the budget would be easier haha
stereo install is not hard. lots of good folks on here that will walk you thru the install. just have to posses time and some basic electrical knowlege.
now building and installing a box is a whole different conversation. need some solid woodworking skills to make one as pretty as mla churns out.
mla is right tho that if you want to shake the lake the w7 is the way to go but it wants/needs tons of power. and good clean power at that.
Whatever route I decide to go I assume I’ll need a custom box. I’ve seen some cool ones that have either lexan or acrylic that I was gonna either have my the local shop where my parents live build or someone in the Houston area.
I ended up ordering 2 jl 12w6, 3 pairs of m6 6.5, 1 pair m6 7.7, and two pairs of the m6 8.8 towers all with the rgb lights. They will be power by 4 m1000/5 with each sub getting 360 watts to each voice coil at 4ohms and each in boat it’s own channel so hopefully the system will rock and be crystal clear
maybe mla will chime in but 360 to each vc doesn't sound like a lot for those subs.
each set of speakers on their own channel should make it easier to get a balanced sound amongst the mid/highs.
720W rms @12.5V and 800W rms @ 14.5V is a little above their stated RMS, but they can handle more. With that said, this setup has 2 things going for it. Twin 12" woofers (hopefully each in a ported enclosure) and each woofer chnl will be at 4 ohm. So thats a comfortable load.
Sure would be nice to have 2x the wattage to those 8" towers v's 4 ohm stereo, are they going to be bridged on 2 of the 1000/5?. Those things would shine then!
I’m gonna have the installer bridge the channels for the towers giving them 180 watts each. I decided to make the decision on this setup because I saw everyone recommending the 750/1 on the jl w6 and I thought if I could get my battery wattage in the low 13s I’d be very happy. But I’m excited about having the 7.7s if they will fit at my feet while driving and the other in the lower observers storage.(if they fit then I’ll just be downgrading to 6.5s which the installer is ok with since he just stocks the jl speakers. But a lot of guys on the mc forum have the m600/1 or 750/1 on the sub and a 600/4 on 4 towers. But I’m ocd and wanted the amp rack to be symmetrical. I also got worried about running lots of speakers to the one channel of the 750/1 and didn’t like the price of 600/4 so that’s the reasoning for my choices
I will be having them in ported boxes or one ported box but both will be at my feet. I was doing the math though on front baffle, port size, and recommended space and this will need less space than the 13w7 If mine math is correct and the installer was telling the truth. But I will be putting the factory recon speakers in a custom SxS top for my dads Father’s Day gift. But does anyone know what the reasoning is and if jl speakers have the same issues with having a odd hum in the speakers to do with rgb lighting like wet sounds?
The installer also wants to add a Rockford pmx instead of a fusion and add a Rockford transom remote
Its not speaker or brand issue. Speaker are simple passive devices and will reproduce what ever electrical signal/frequency that comes in. They cannot differentiate between music and unwanted "noise". The issue is typically a result of a PWM (pulse width modulated) frequency produced by the RGB controller when making certain colors. The PWM Hz finds its way into the audio signal path, and then reproduced by the speaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by rpk2016
So any RGB integrated speaker can exhibit this noise when wired to an RGB controller.
2 jl 12w6's in a single ported enclosure under the helm would be quite a sight to see.
you get that built post up pics. I struggled to get a single 12 under the helm in both my supra and tige.
Waiting on the boat to get in from Gregg Orr Marine and only time will tell how long the install takes. But I saw on another forum on here where a guy put 2 12w7 under the helm so I know the subs can be parallel and still fit. And don’t worry I’m defiantly going to want to show it off. I’m hoping though it’s all don’t before June 18th since that’s my birthday
I heard a video that Spokane audio did Facebook or instagram with 2 12w6s and I listened to it with my Bose headphones and that sh*t sounded perfect. They also did a g25 with 2 13w7, 4 8w7 in the bow, and 2 12s in the observers compartment and under drivers feet. It also has (20) 880s and 16 hd amps powered by 8 stinger batteries and not a single piece of wood was used. That video is only on Instagram but there’s pictures if you want to feel really broke hahahaha