Running stereo through accesory switch on a Supra SL

Hello all,

Just trying to figure out a way to be able to manually turn the stereo off and on, as others have done, in a Supra SL. As far as I can tell, the headunit is built in to the touchscreen (I have not been able to locate a separate headunit). All the controls for the stereo run through the screen as well. When you turn off the key, a popup asks if you want to keep the audio on.

Am I thinking correctly that there is power running from the screen to the amps, and I could run this power through one of the open accesory switches on the dash? I would really like to turn the power off to the stereo myself, if possible. Would this confuse the software in the screen in any way? Could it cause any issues? Thanks for any insight!

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I would really like to turn the power off to the stereo myself

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Hit the "power" button on the screen to turn the stereo off.

Pretty sure you can only mute the stereo from the screen, no power off button.

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Do anyone know if we can wire a accessory switch on the blue wire? If not where would be the best place to put one in?

1st, there is no reason to the amps turned on, without the ICE and screen. 2nd, turning the amps on/off independent of the ICE, will create pops/thumps.

It would be great if the OP would jump back in and expand on what her's after in the end.

The new Sl already pops on start up, the OP and myself are friends and are having issues with the boat making a very loud POP on start up, I sounds like a back fire an is going to blow my kids ear drums out. Supras fix so far is to run the battery in 1+2 mode.
After killing a battery last night tempting ballast , i prefer to have the battery in 1 or 2 so that I can start the boat if one dies

As shock this mentions, we both have a 2018 Supra SL and are on the same lake. We both have the same problem, that our boats pop loudly on startup, but only if we are in battery position 1 or 2. It does not happen if we start in position 1+2. In the SL there is no way to turn off the stereo completely (there is no on/off button on the touchscreen), only turn it down to volume 0 or mute, but it still pops in this situation. It would be nice to be able to turn off the stereo completely, which is why we were looking into wiring a switch into the system. Alternatively I suppose you could start in 1+2, then switch to either 1 or 2 when stopped, but this leads to a bunch of flipping of a battery switch when out riding. The other thing we have looked into is ditching the stock 1,2 and 1+2 perko for a blue seas switch and ACR (7650). Apparently Supra is aware of the issue, but they have not come up with a fix yet either. All they have said is that when starting on 1 or 2, the starter pulls enough voltage to cause the subs to turn off and on, causing a pop. Not sure why this would happen if starter and house batteries are isolated.

I'll tell you what...I trade you for my 2017 SA400 straight up for your 2018 SL and drive up to make the switch. That way you can have a sound system that doesn't pop when starting and I can have all sub-floor ballast and built in cooler in the floor.

Ok, not I understand what you are after. However, the blue amp turn-on is not the circuit you want. As noted, turning the amps on/off independent of the ICE, will likely cause pop/thump.

A firmware update from Murphy would probably return an on/off command to the screen.

Apparently Supra is working with Murphy on this as they have identified it as a software problem. Still confused as to why it pops when on position 1 and 2, but not when on 1+2.

Oh, and no trades!! Despite the pop, this is the best boat I’ve had, and thats coming from previous 23lsv, and 2 G23’s (pre and post 2015). This wakeboard and surf wave is sweet!

The starter draw is likely causing an amp to power off, then back on, during cranking. Same that will happen if you interrupt the blue wire to the amp(s). the 1/2 position doubles the CCA to the starter and reserve to the amps.

Do you think changing the wiring/battery switch to the Blue Seas 7650 kit (which includes an ACR) would help isolate the amps better, or same problem since we are dealing with a software issue?

If Supra can’t come up with a solution and you want to keep the boat it would be worth looking into. That’d be my worthless .02! Lol
When you get the pop on 1 or 2, are you giving the electronics time to fire up or are you just turning the key from off to start?
If you shut the engine off and tell it to standby with audio, when you start does it pop again?
Could you post a good picture of how the power and grounds for the amps are run?
I doubt that has much to do with it, but its worth looking into.
It sounds like the ICE box is sending the trigger to the amps too early, which would be a software issue.
An easy test would be to have someone in the dog house pull the remote wires on the amps, start the boat, and then just shove the remote wires back in after a couple seconds. If it doesn’t pop, there’s your issue. The hard part becomes if its popping with the electronics in stand by mode.

@Euro,

The blue sea DCP switch and ACR can separate the house loads and cranking loads, but...................its hard to say that there is not another solution.

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Originally Posted by Broke Pilot

If Supra can’t come up with a solution and you want to keep the boat it would be worth looking into. That’d be my worthless .02! Lol
When you get the pop on 1 or 2, are you giving the electronics time to fire up or are you just turning the key from off to start?
If you shut the engine off and tell it to standby with audio, when you start does it pop again?
Could you post a good picture of how the power and grounds for the amps are run?
I doubt that has much to do with it, but its worth looking into.
It sounds like the ICE box is sending the trigger to the amps too early, which would be a software issue.
An easy test would be to have someone in the dog house pull the remote wires on the amps, start the boat, and then just shove the remote wires back in after a couple seconds. If it doesn’t pop, there’s your issue. The hard part becomes if its popping with the electronics in stand by mode.

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Checked a few things this weekend. We definitely wait long enough in that it will pop when launching. Boat has been on with the blower for several minutes before trying to start and it will pop. Sadly, it also pops after being on with the audio only on in standby. We did not try the removal of the remote wires on the amp. It is pointing more and more to a software issue.

2018 SA and I get the amp pop on start up.


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Anyone have any luck with the stereo pop on the SL? I can't take it anymore.

JL amps are supposed to have a built in soft start feature. Did you try pulling the remote wires, start the boat then put the remotes back?
We’ve got to narrow down the conditions it happens under. You need to try having the electronics stable and powered before introducing the remote power to trigger them.
If it’s a software issue that can’t be cleared up soon, and the remotes are getting triggered to early by the ICE, this could be as simple as cutting the wire and putting a switch in to delay the power until SC can fix it.

Almost every amp has a turn-on muting, but it only works if the entire sequence is maintained. I think we have an issue where something is not wired correctly, or theres a voltage drop, causing the sequence to be altered.

Mine still pops every time I start it up...does not matter if I wait for the full cycle of the start up or if I just crank the key right off the rip.

Whatever it is...my buddy has a 2019 SL450 and his does not do it. Same exact stereo other than new Vision Control screens that are on the 2019s.

When I had mine in for the 100 hour service I asked them to check and upgrade any firmware updates on the system and there was nothing available.

2018 SA also pops.


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Just curious for those that have a "pop" like myself what battery did your boat come with? I have a pictures of the wiring and battery set up of some one with a 18 SL that doesn't pop. They are running a dual purpose battery with two sets of posts. Mine has one post and all wiring is going to one terminal.

There are some 2019 SL's doing it as well.

Mine has 2 of these.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c43a63923b.jpg


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Does it have two terminals per side or one?

I think just one per side. I will verify later today.


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https://www.facebook.com/groups/1786...9627263442756/

There are pictures of the battery set up on this link, his does not pop

[QUOTE=larry_arizona;341636]Mine has 2 of these.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c43a63923b.jpg


My 2018 SL550 has 2 of these batteries and each battery only has 1 positive and 1 negative battery terminal on each battery.

For those of us who choose to be social media free...can you copy and paste the picture here?

Agree, I don’t do the Facebook


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Trying to upload pictures but having a hard time