hi everyone, has anyone posted a detailed step by step for the indmar 400 with pictures correlating the area, looking to do it myself at the end of 2018.
Thanks
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hi everyone, has anyone posted a detailed step by step for the indmar 400 with pictures correlating the area, looking to do it myself at the end of 2018.
Thanks
This isn't super detailed (has pictures/descriptions) but if you are even a little bit handy it should help you get the job done....
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hm...NL4R0gBHMqpoDL
1. Add stabil to fuel and top off tank
2. Connect water hose to the flush assembly and close the valve for the water intake on the bottom of the bilge.
3. Turn on water hose and run engine up to operating temp.
4. Shut down.
5. Remove all water from cooling system starting by
a)turning off and disconnecting the water house
b)opening the water intake valve on the bottom of the bilge
c)opening the water strainer to drain it
d)removing the first plug from the bottom of the v-drive (faces the front of the boat)
e) disconnected the hoses that connect the exhaust manifolds and letting them drain into the bilge
f) remove the blue plug from the bottom of the heat exchanger
g)remove the blue plug from the bottom of the coolant pipe near the front of the engine
h) remove the water pump impeller cover and impeller from the front of the engine
i) allow all water to completely drain, then reinstall all plugs, reassmble the strainer, and reconnect the hoses from the exhaust manifold
j) put the cover back on the impeller housing but do not install a new impeller (install a new one before you run it in the spring during summerization)
6. Use an oil extractor to remove oil from the engine via the hose on the starboard side that goes down to the bottom of the oil pan.
7. remove old oil filter and install new one
8. fill engine with new clean oil
9. (optional) remove spark plugs and spray a small amount of fogging oil into each cylinder via the plug hole, turn engine over with plugs removed to coat cylinder walls with oil, reinstall spark plugs
10) disconnect all ballast bags and add 1/4 cup of bleach to each bag to prevent mold
11. run ballast pumps forward and reverse for a couple seconds with bags disconnected to ensure they have no water in them
12.check water level in batteries and top off as needed (only for batteries that require maintenance)
13.cry as you put the boat away since it will not be used in a while and crack open a beer.
THIS, SO MUCH THIS!! Crack open a beer while you make your winter boat payments too, stings a little less, LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
"i) allow all water to completely drain, then reinstall all plugs, reassmble the strainer, and reconnect the hoses from the exhaust manifold
j) put the cover back on the impeller housing but do not install a new impeller (install a new one before you run it in the spring during summerization)"
So, I'm curious....does it really matter if all those plugs are reinstalled for the winter? My practice has been to leave them out and reinstall once I'm getting ready in the spring; including leaving the coupling hose at the v-drive transmission undone through the winter. Is this a concern?
I don't think it really matters but if left out, that's one more thing to keep track of and/or lose.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange
I think some people have had issues with the threads rusting over the winter making the plugs difficult to get back in. If that is not an issue then I don't think it matters. I just like the have the shortest possible summerization and I dont want to forget a plug I took out 4 months ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange
10-4. I thought rust might be the reason. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
Good afternoon,
I am just curious To why you run it to temp on a hose? To ensure the fuel stabilizer gets into the fuel system?
Thanks,
Paul
easier to extract the oil. it flows better when warm.
some will say to get sta-bil into lines but there's no guarantee running to oper. temp will fill the lines.
Wouldn’t it also be necessary to trailer it for a period to adequately mix the fuel and stabilizer before running? This was part of my procedure when storing any power sports equipment in the past.Quote:
Originally Posted by sandm
good question and dunno. when we winterize I would add sta-bil, fill the tank and then trailer home so I guess I was doing the same thing but when I winterized my summer cars and motorcycle in wisconsin I just added the sta-bil in the garage and called it a day. never had an issue doing this.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2in2out
crazy thing is, my '16 silverado(excuse me as I get nerdy for a sec that I track this), on 11/22/2019 it had 39434 miles. on 10/16/2020 it had 41768 miles. total of 2330 miles in the last 12 months-most all towing the boat(500 miles in oct 20 for a trip). I don't add anything to it and it'll fire right up every time and run like a champ. we only lay up for 3 months-ish here and guessing the boat would be ok but we still add sta-bil to it. creatures of habit and the cost of a new boat I guess.....
Attachment 29202
My method.
10 minutes start to finish not counting an oil change but I did that a month ago.
Hook it up, run it till the exhaust is pink. Disconnect and call it a day.
Sonic, I'm in TN too. What's the part list you are using for the container system the antifreeze is in? Where are you plumbing in the hose? What about your ballast?
Big box stores (HD or Lowes or Amazon) will have this. I made one from:Quote:
Originally Posted by jnr4817
5 Gallon Bucket
Brass Garden Hose Bibb (not the circle turn on/off valve)
Non-Kink 4-5' RV/Camping Hose with regular garden hose fittings on each end.
Or you can buy the kit that has all three parts.
Yeah as MJH said you can build it or just buy the camco kit for 40 bucks here: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Winteri...6152037&sr=8-2Quote:
Originally Posted by jnr4817
I'm not sure if your Mojo has the sea strainer or not but my supra has one of these:
https://www.bakesonline.com/indmar-s...BoClQkQAvD_BwE
you just hook the hose in there and close the thru hull valve. If yo have one it will be right above the V-drive.
I just ran all my pumps until the lines were mostly air. I think it will be fine, we shall see. I may get a wild hair and dump some antifreeze in the overflows and run the pumps in reverse for a few seconds but haven't bothered yet.
$43 from Amazon delivered to your door is good price.
The Indmar Sea Strainer Flush Kit is a must add-on if you do not have one. They are appx $100 at most online stores. Probably save 20% if you purchase on sale or black friday.
I'm going to add these two items to the xmas list. I already winterized myself and pulled the ballast bags. I purged with pink stuff and its covered with 2 fans running on low under a carport. Should have any moisture issues or freezing problems.
Thanks
I need to change my oil. It's still under warranty, but I should be able to handle this myself. Any tips or tricks?
Thanks,
Warm the engine up and an oil extractor with a male air hose connector on the end.
Dang! You guys need to move to South Georgia!