fogging raptor motor

First winter with my craz and first time with a catalytic converter marine engine. I am used to fogging the motor by spraying down into the throttle body, which I understand is a no no on the catalytic converter engines. So I have read to pull each plug, spray fogging oil, and bump the motor to move the oil around. Couple questions. I understand the raptor engines have 16 plugs. Do I need to remove all 16 or just one per cylinder? Also can I remove all 8 or 16 and then bump the motor or do I have to do individually by cylinder? Do I bump the motor with the plug out or back in? If out, do I need put a town or something blocking the open hole or will oil blow out there? I am assuming you guys all bump the motor with the safety lanyard pulled so that it wont start?

Without getting into specifics about your motor, pull the lanyard (or distributor coil wire, for those that have one and no lanyard) first. I like to spray, bump, spray into each cylinder. That just gets a little more coating of the oil in the cylinder (not 100% guarantee, just better). I always have towels on hand when working with any fluids around the boat, just good practice. But you probably won't get more than a drip coming out.

Bumping the motor w/o a plug will cause some oil to shoot out of each cylinder.

You can fog all at once.

There are different options about fogging with or without spark plugs and running a chance to foul a plug. I bump mine w/o the plugs to avoid it.

Yes on the lanyard.

Are you referring to the Indmar site when they talk about the Raptor motors:
DUAL SPARK PLUGS
Time proven, aviation grade dual spark plugs provide more power per liter and redundancy in emissions systems and more efficient combustion leading to increased fuel economy, reliability and cleaner emissions. Dual Spark plugs also extends the spark plug service life to 300 hours.

Why are you fogging at all

You realize when you start the engine next season you will burn that through the cats.

I've never fogged my boats and they have sat 9 months in Oregon before.

I've never fogged my Vette when it's in storage.

Get away from the old mentality of fogging.

You don't need to jeopardize anything in your engine.

Honestly it's safer to just go start it for 30 seconds once a month

You won't hurt the impeller and you won't overheat the engine.


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From indmar,

"Indmar does not recommend applying fogging oil while
the engine is running. The fogging oil could damage the
catalytic converter. The cylinders must be protected by
removing the spark plugs and applying the fogging oil
directly into the cylinders.
3. After all the cylinders have been treated, crank the
engine to spread the lubricant on the cylinder walls.
Replace the spark plugs in the engine.
4. Perform annual maintenance; refer to Section 6,
Scheduled Maintenance Chart."

Indmar recommends doing it. Going to go with their word over yours...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mmandley

Why are you fogging at all

You realize when you start the engine next season you will burn that through the cats.

I've never fogged my boats and they have sat 9 months in Oregon before.

I've never fogged my Vette when it's in storage.

Get away from the old mentality of fogging.

You don't need to jeopardize anything in your engine.

Honestly it's safer to just go start it for 30 seconds once a month

You won't hurt the impeller and you won't overheat the engine.


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Yes I saw the comment about dual plugs in my manual. So is it still just 8 plugs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MJHSupra

Bumping the motor w/o a plug will cause some oil to shoot out of each cylinder.

You can fog all at once.

There are different options about fogging with or without spark plugs and running a chance to foul a plug. I bump mine w/o the plugs to avoid it.

Yes on the lanyard.

Are you referring to the Indmar site when they talk about the Raptor motors:
DUAL SPARK PLUGS
Time proven, aviation grade dual spark plugs provide more power per liter and redundancy in emissions systems and more efficient combustion leading to increased fuel economy, reliability and cleaner emissions. Dual Spark plugs also extends the spark plug service life to 300 hours.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcjimmy33

Indmar recommends doing it. Going to go with their word over yours...

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And that's fine just saying it's really not needed, divas you wish I was just giving you my experience with engines for 30+ years.




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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcjimmy33

Yes I saw the comment about dual plugs in my manual. So is it still just 8 plugs?

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My Raptor 400 is 8 plugs. I shut the engine off, pull one plug at a time, and give her a good Juicing with fogging oil, Reinstall, and then go to the next one. Beginning of Season she lit off in 1/2 revolution no smoke or issues.

Does it even get cold enough in GA to winterize? I don't fog, never have and will reach -30. My dads family used to own a marina and they did not fog either. Maybe we're old school and the newer engines need more love during the winter months?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sivs1

Does it even get cold enough in GA to winterize? I don't fog, never have and will reach -30. My dads family used to own a marina and they did not fog either. Maybe we're old school and the newer engines need more love during the winter months?

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Fogging is just to protect the cylinders from pitting causes by moisture in the cylinders.

That's why if you just start the engine periodically you won't have an issue


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Yes it gets cold enough to winterize in GA. When I bought my first boat 6 years ago my father in law did the whole "I've never winterized by boat in 20 years and haven't had a problem" speech. He's been through 2 blocks in the past 6 years, he now winterizes. Although fogging won't save a block blowing up, draining the motor of the water does that.

So my dealer/mechanic told me (after I had already done it) to never fog these engines here (DFW).

Not going to catch me doing it again!! Haha


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As you can see, there are different opinions on this.

It all comes down to the comment by MMANDLEY: it's done to coat the cylinder walls for moisture. Remember - cast iron is porous and if it's dry (no oil), it rusts fast IF WATER comes in contact. Fogging will help minimize cylinder rust if your boat will be sitting for months where temperatures are changing significantly.

When I grew up it was a common practice on carb engines and outboards. I recall reading the Merc manuals on it. Putting fogging oil down the carb to coat values and cylinders. We changed plugs about every-other-year.

Where is the EngineNut on this topic?

At the risk of offending a few people here, a lot of people's opionions don't mean jack. Why would people not trust indmar/Ford who did all the testing on these motors. If they shouldn't be fogged, the manual would state to just drain them for winterizing. If the fogging oil would damage the cat/engine in anyway, they wouldn't tell people to fog the motors.

Even if you have xx years experience in your personal motors, indmar/ford has tested these motors many lifetimes over more hours than anyone else has experience with. I doubt any dealers charge less for winterizing by not performing this fogging.

I was referring to one of the best indmar certified mechanics who instructed me to never fog these engines here in our climate. When I informed him that was what the manual said to do, his response was that wasn’t what indmar had instructed him.

Btw, have fun fishing the little red spray extender out from your cylinder chamber when it shoots off the spray can [emoji6]

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Originally Posted by Woody929

I was referring to one of the best indmar certified mechanics who instructed me to never fog these engines here in our climate. When I informed him that was what the manual said to do, his response was that wasn’t what indmar had instructed him.

Btw, have fun fishing the little red spray extender out from your cylinder chamber when it shoots off the spray can [emoji6]

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That Doesn't give you a warm and fuzzy. Are you saying indmar techs are taught to winterize a motor differently than the manual that indmar supplies on how to winterize a motor?

When you change the oil for winter storage just add a quart of lucas oil stabilizer. Dont bother with foggining. It destroys modern engine sensors and burn up catz

Manuals cover asses and keep lawyers away.


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I'm so disappointed in this thread... I thought(hoped) it was about this.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-oxide-systems

Can you say "Get on plane quickly"!

NOS to the rescue.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcjimmy33

At the risk of offending a few people here, a lot of people's opionions don't mean jack. Why would people not trust indmar/Ford who did all the testing on these motors. If they shouldn't be fogged, the manual would state to just drain them for winterizing. If the fogging oil would damage the cat/engine in anyway, they wouldn't tell people to fog the motors.

Even if you have xx years experience in your personal motors, indmar/ford has tested these motors many lifetimes over more hours than anyone else has experience with. I doubt any dealers charge less for winterizing by not performing this fogging.

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Don't worry buddy you won't offend or hurt anyone's feelings as long as your not offended and your feelings aren't hurt lol


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I am curious where you are seeing it tell you to Fog the engine at all?
In the owners manual for the boat for the last Models it doesn't say Fog the engine at all.
Also be aware of the bold print that says any damage from Winterizing yourself will not be covered by warranty.

18 Owners Manual
When the boating and ski season comes to a close, it is important to have your boat professionally winterized.
If your boat is exposed to temperatures below 32 degrees F (0 degrees C), it is possible for water in the engine, ballast system, heater core, etc., to freeze. As this water freezes, it expands and can crack pumps, valves, heat exchangers, engine blocks, etc. This type of damage usually requires the replacement of the cracked item and can be very expensive to repair.
It is extremely important to follow the proper winterizing procedure. The engine must be correctly winterized for safe storage in your climate. This should be done by a professional. Your Moomba dealer will know exactly what must be done to ensure the longest possible life for your boat. In addition to having your boat professionally winterized, the following tasks should be done to protect your boat during storage: • Remove the center and transom drain plugs from the boat. • Thoroughly clean the boat inside and out. Inspect the hull for any residue or algae growth and remove if required. • Clean the bilge area thoroughly and operate the bilge pump to remove any water from the bilge hose.
WInTeRIZaTIon • Remove all seat cushions and open all storage areas to allow air circulation in the boat interior. • When thoroughly dry, replace cushions and close storage areas. • Top off fuel tank to prevent any condensation from accumulating in the fuel system. Use a commercially available fuel stabilizer to remove water and prevent gumming. • If the boat is stored on its trailer, ensure that the boat is properly positioned. If possible, lift the tongue so that the bow is slightly raised to promote drainage from the drain hole. • Install the canvas cover and secure the straps in accordance with cover instructions

This is the 16 Model Year

WINTERIZATION
When the boating and ski season comes to a close, it is important to have your boat professionally winterized.
If your boat is exposed to temperatures below 32 degrees F (0 degrees C), it is possible for water in the engine, ballast system, heater core, etc., to freeze. As this water freezes, it expands and can crack pumps, valves, heat exchangers, engine blocks, etc. This type of damage usually requires the replacement of the cracked item and can be very expensive to repair.
It is extremely important to follow the proper winterizing procedure. The engine must be correctly winterized for safe storage in your climate. This should be done by a professional. Your Moomba dealer will know exactly what must be done to ensure the longest possible life for your boat.
In addition to having your boat professionally winterized, the following tasks should be done to protect your boat during storage:
• Remove the center drain plug from the boat. • Thoroughly clean the boat inside and out. Inspect the hull for any residue or algae growth and remove if required. • Clean the bilge area thoroughly and operate the bilge pump to remove any water from the bilge hose. • Remove all seat cushions and open all storage areas to allow air circulation in the boat interior. • When thoroughly dry, replace cushions and close storage areas. • Top off fuel tank to prevent any condensation from accumulating in the fuel system. Use a commercially available fuel stabilizer to remove water and prevent gumming. • If the boat is stored on its trailer, ensure that the boat is properly positioned. If possible, lift the tongue so that the bow is slightly raised to promote drainage from the drain hole. • Install the canvas cover and secure the straps in accordance with cover instructions.
NOTE: During the winter months, water is a boat’s worst enemy. Always store the boat when the interior is completely dry. Periodically check on the condition of the stored boat.
Damage due to improper winterization IS NOT covered under your boat’s warranty.
E-10 fuels require fuel stabilizers that are specifically designed for E-10 fuels to help prevent moisture absorbtion, phase separation and gasoline stabilization

Page 8-3 in my raptor manual

Attachment 26231

I have a can of fogging I will give someone if they want it? Just pay shipping.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by russellsmojo

I have a can of fogging I will give someone if they want it? Just pay shipping.


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Does it include the little red straw?