Installed Indmar sea strainer

I was able to get rid of two 90 degree bends. One on the stock strainer is gone and the one coming up through the hull is gone. My through hull had a 90 attached to it with NO seacok. I added the seacok, new hoses and the strainer.

I found that it is running a decent bit cooler, maybe 15-20 degrees on average. I think getting rid of those 90 degrees plus the larger through put volume of the Indmar strainer has increased flow. I have noticed this since I installed it over a month ago. It seems to be working well.

The only down side is I am not sure how you empty it while in the water without spilling it while on the water. I put it on my lift to empty it because all of the water drains down and out so no problem. You can't remove the "bowl" part but you can put a container under it to catch the water. Does anyone have a good solution for that?

The screen comes out easily. I haven't used the flush fitting but I am REALLY looking forward to not having to climb under the boat with the toilet plunger again.

Have pics?

Do you have the 340 CAT/ETX or the 325 Assault?

I don't. I won't see the boat for the next two weekends. It is horizontal over the V-drive. Really limited as to how I could mount it but it seemed like the best way to go. The only other option would be for the intake side to point down and that would be tough to catch the water rather than just let it in the bilge. It really isn't that big a deal, there is only about a cup of water in that filter anyway.

Do these boats not come with seacoks at all or was mine removed?

Is it this one? http://www.indmar.com/mobile/experie...ion_Award.aspx

Funny that the part itself has 1 x 90 deg bend. I would like to do one of these. I always hate sliding under the trailer with the plunger.

That is the one. Some people are using the Perko Flush Pro Valve for flushing. For boats without the seacok that is the way to go as it automatically stops flow out of the inlet on the bottom of the hull; but you still need the strainer. I wanted to have a shutoff on there in case there was some catastrophic cooling system failure.
I could have done without any 90* bends as that actually made it more difficult for me plus is is just more resistance in the system but I am sure that was compensated for. I just have an aversion to 90* bends :rolleyes:

I am with ya! I am so looking forward to not crawling under there and having to adjust the plunger when it moves withe water on the ground at the end of October.

Mine does not have a seacock on that thru-hull. Did you just splice it into that main intake line?

Attachment 25919

I had an engineer friend years ago who claimed each 90 degree fitting created the same resistance as an additional 15' section of pipe.

He proceeded to dig up and remove as many 90's in his pool plumbing as he could find. There was a current in his pool when he was finished :-)

I can see how your boat might run cooler with the improved flow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Poison

Mine does not have a seacock on that thru-hull. Did you just splice it into that main intake line?

Attachment 25919

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Hey sorry I didn't see this! I ended up cutting off the 90* from the thru hull. I ended up using a right angle grinder and cut it off. At least yours is pointing toward the bow. I attached the seacok directly to the thru hull vertically. That was the hard way to do it. I would feel better even having it spliced into the system like you are talking about. At least there is only one short hose that way. Maybe it is just me but it worries me not having a way to cut that inlet. I have 4 inlets in the bottom and all 4 have ball valves now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fastest1

I had an engineer friend years ago who claimed each 90 degree fitting created the same resistance as an additional 15' section of pipe.

He proceeded to dig up and remove as many 90's in his pool plumbing as he could find. There was a current in his pool when he was finished :-)

I can see how your boat might run cooler with the improved flow.

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I have a plumber friend who said basically the same thing. Not sure how many feet he said it added but I was surprised. Same with corrugated bendy piping as well. At minimum use a 90* bend rather than a right angle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 5:00

use a 90* bend rather than a right angle.

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Uhhh. I took some math once upon a time but I really don't get this.

Ok I made little sense. Long radius rather than a short, quick 90* bend. Less resistance this way.

This
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...6ff24_1000.jpg

Instead of this
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...c8baa_1000.jpg

Makes sense.

I get the need to avoid restricted water flow, but is it ok to drop temps that much? I'd think that the engine would be burning more fuel or running less optimally if the temps dropped 15 degrees or more.

I recently installed a Sherwood style strainer with a straight fitting on the inlet and a sharp 90 on the outlet. I haven't noticed any temp change.

Mine was running pretty consistently just below 180 which is fine. The issue is there wasn't much room for it to get any warmer so a little cushion seems be a good thing. I am still within operating temps just a bit safer now.

In your case it sounds like a good direction. My gauge never goes above the middle mark (between the marked 135 and marked 180, so I'm guessing around 160) and often times is in the 145-ish area. So I didn't want any further cooling effect. I probably should test mine though... thinking maybe the temp sensor is off?

I am with you on that. I wouldn't want it running too cold. I figure mine is usually around 165-170 now and gets up to 175 at times. I have a new thermostat and sender just to be sure that gauge is reading right. I will install them toward the end of the season. I just wish they had an audible overheat alarm so I wouldn't have to worry so much.
Even when it was reading 175 consistently everything in the engine compartment was cool enough to touch so I do wonder if the gauge is reading correctly? Any way to tell?

Testing the sender and wires is fairly straightforward, but we'd need to know the resistance specs to be sure of the correct temp reading. Here's a good video on the sender check:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPAIFL8VH9w

Beyond that, I suppose taking a temp reading with an infrared temp gauge right near the sender might do the trick. Generally, only the block and oil pan get too hot to touch on our boat. The exhaust risers and hoses stay relatively cool with the huge volume of water flowing throughout.

Found this post on checking the gauge itself. Sounds like the resistance specs are fairly common across boats.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....310#post289310

Thanks for that I will check it out.

What is the oil temp?
As long as it goes to 212 or slightly above.
Moisture must be eliminated in the crankcase.


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I installed the new sea strainer last year and it is absolutely worth the $100. Very easy to run off the hose now.
I did have to cut off part of my intake hose to make it fit but that was fairly easy to do with a hacksaw.

Looking for directions on what this would take to install on CAT 340, the indmar one with the hose attachment. Thanks

Is this the one?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=72593

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Yup that's the one. It was a breeze flushing and adding antifreeze this year. I had to empty the strainer once and it was no problem at all. It wasn't the mess I thought it would be. Glad I did this upgrade for sure. Peace of mind having a ball valve on there now also.

I hate to bring up an old thread but I’m looking to add the sea strainer also. Given the boat is in storage, is anyone able to confirm that the water hose is 1 1/4”?

2018 Mondo

Not sure which hose you are referring to but the sea strainer was basically plug and play on my 16 Mojo. Just cut the hose between the through hull valve and the v-drive inlet and install the strainer. Might have to remove a few inches of hose. The size on the strainer is matched the hoses used from factory on the indmar raptors. The threaded garden hose inlet is standard as well to all "normal" water hoses.

Yes the hose connecting to the v drive inlet. But they make the strainer in 1” and 1 1/4” size. I believe that inlet is 1 1/4” hose. Are you able to confirm?

Yes, in the boat for some garage boating right now. It’s 1.25”. Good luck!

Perfect. Thank you!

The guys at O'Reilly's let me walk back in the hose section to pick this out. It's a pretty good fit & angle for the XLV. Attachment 28308It's a Gates