It's been a while, here's my 2017 Stereo Revamp...

Every year I change a few things, but for the last 8 years and 2 boats I've used the same Kicker L710s.

I've had a pair of S12L7s for like a year and a half, but have been too lazy to build the box - last night that changed :)

I managed to fit 3.3 cubic feet under the dash of my '13 OBV, plus a 23" long 48in^2 surface area port.

Our friend Phil at Kicker recommended a 60 square inch port but I just couldn't fit it - hoping the smaller port isn't too bad - so far seems good.

Basically I built 3 enclosures and assembled them in the boat - 1 that goes on the "hump", one that goes on the floor, and the third is the port, which mounts to the top of the box and fires to the side.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9w4lfu0tga...%20PM.jpg?dl=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mpfb8yti9j...81%29.jpg?dl=1

I forgot to snap a pic with the subs mounted - I still need to make a trim panel to finish it off and grilles and new volt meters should be here Monday, and I have to cut down or rebuild the cup holder pod.

Here is what it used to look like;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ar4bzngdb...01353.JPG?dl=1

As if I really need to tell you, awesome work as always man. Looks legit

No reason the port can't be external to the enclosure, as it works the same regardless. That's really thinking outside the box.

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Originally Posted by David Analog

No reason the port can't be external to the enclosure, as it works the same regardless. That's really thinking outside the box.

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lol!


Mostly I went smaller than suggested because of space constraints. I'm can't wait to dial it in though.

Made some progress on the trim panel today - turns out Home Depot sells 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 inch PVC sheets now - saved me from using MDF since I forgot to order Starboard!

First I made a template;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9q1tqn93hn...%20PM.jpg?dl=1

Then I cut it out, and test for the subs;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/brv9xgjz4l...%20PM.jpg?dl=1
(They aren't screwed in, rest assured when mounted they'll be level)


And then cut a vent for the port, and made a bezel for the vent grille fabric;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/prgc7n0abo...%20PM.jpg?dl=1

I can't wait to see the finished work! I am glad you went down the external port path; that will make it easier on you if you have to remove it and massage it... Thanks for checking with me on the enclosure tuning, I am happy to be there for ya!

Keep it up.

Phil
Kicker

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Originally Posted by David Analog

No reason the port can't be external to the enclosure, as it works the same regardless. That's really thinking outside the box.

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I see what you did there.... :)

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Originally Posted by philwsailz

I see what you did there.... :)

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You know it's the lead in that can be so laborious.

I'm not thrilled with the trim panel, but it'll do for now.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cup98hwv77...%20PM.jpg?dl=1

BOOM! Nice work

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That looks good!

I how does it compare? Looks great!


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Originally Posted by BrettLee3232

I how does it compare? Looks great!


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Yeah, I'd be curious the difference you hear between the pair of 10's and the pair of 12's... I'm thinking that if I ever change up my setup, I'd like to do a pair of 12" L7's.

If I am looking at this right, you went from 2 10's sealed to 2 12's ported? if so, the difference should be off the hook! Not only deeper bass from the size difference, but MUCH greater output from added surface and port! Dont even need to factor in any amp wattage increase

The 10s were also ported, but the surface area of the port was way too small, the coils would heat up pretty quick when pushing hard.

I still have the the Xi1500.1 in the boat and need to adjust the levels, or swap straight to the XM20.1

Hoping to tinker with it this weekend, hard to dial the stereo in in the driveway, wife looses her sense of humor far too quickly.

Whats you impedance load at the amp now, with the 12's?

1 ohm, which is the same as with the 10s - up definitely be a fun comparison.

Swapped out the Xi1500.1 for an XM20.1; need to cut a new piece of plastic to mount it to, but this is what it's going to look like;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3pcio02d0...%20PM.jpg?dl=1

This picture makes me feel like I need a 5th amp above the 20.1, lol...

definitely report back. I'm thinking that if I ever change up my subs in the XLV that I'll likely do almost exactly what you're doing. a pair of dual 4ohm voice coil 12" L7's with the exile 20.1 powering it at 1 ohm.

Although, if you could comment on the idea of just doing it in a sealed enclosure for simplicity and the necessity for a little less airspace, I'd be interested in your thoughts. I've been told that I can get ~3cuft if I cut out the footrest in my XLV, so that seems pretty good for a pair of sealed L7's. I'm sure that ported they'd want more airspace, plus I'm not sure my box building skills are up to doing a ported enclosure...

They sound great, the 20.1 seems to drive them really well.

I find it impossible to believe that you can only fit 3 cubic feet in an XLV - the enclosure I have in my OBV is 3.3 cubic feet plus the port, lol.

I wanted the output and efficiency of a ported enclosure, and like the idea of being able to play with the port to tune it.

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Originally Posted by trayson

definitely report back. I'm thinking that if I ever change up my subs in the XLV that I'll likely do almost exactly what you're doing. a pair of dual 4ohm voice coil 12" L7's with the exile 20.1 powering it at 1 ohm.

Although, if you could comment on the idea of just doing it in a sealed enclosure for simplicity and the necessity for a little less airspace, I'd be interested in your thoughts. I've been told that I can get ~3cuft if I cut out the footrest in my XLV, so that seems pretty good for a pair of sealed L7's. I'm sure that ported they'd want more airspace, plus I'm not sure my box building skills are up to doing a ported enclosure...

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How about 2400W rms @ 2 ohm and a wireless sub level control? http://www.kicker.com/kxa24001-2400-watt-mono-amplifier

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Originally Posted by MLA

How about 2400W rms @ 2 ohm and a wireless sub level control? http://www.kicker.com/kxa24001-2400-watt-mono-amplifier

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Looks spendy! Why does it have the same output at 1 and 2 ohm?

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Originally Posted by ian ashton

Looks spendy! Why does it have the same output at 1 and 2 ohm?

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Using 2013 KX2400.1 retail price, it comes out to $.46 p/watt rms. For comparison, the xm20.1 is about $.38 p/watt rms. So very close.

The amp is 1 ohm stable, which allows for the flexibility to bolt up to an existing woofer setup that might be 1 ohm. However, its rms is based on 2 ohm, which is its ideal operating impedance. If you look close, Kicker states that you may see a 10% +/- rms @ 1 ohm This because they built it to safely run a 1 ohm load, but designed its power output for a 2 ohm load.

I wasn't knocking it, I've had great luck with Kicker products in our boats :)

I've just never seen matched output ratings and varying loads.

That said, I'm not a stereo guru like you guys, lol

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Originally Posted by ian ashton

They sound great, the 20.1 seems to drive them really well.

I find it impossible to believe that you can only fit 3 cubic feet in an XLV - the enclosure I have in my OBV is 3.3 cubic feet plus the port, lol.

I wanted the output and efficiency of a ported enclosure, and like the idea of being able to play with the port to tune it.

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I did some 'guess' measuring last night. and assuming what I could get based on not really remembering what obstacles would exist once I removed the foot rest, I'm thinking I'd have up to 4 cuft. That said, if I ever did it, I'd likely stick with a sealed because it'd be harder for me to screw it up and a lot easier to build.

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Originally Posted by MLA

How about 2400W rms @ 2 ohm and a wireless sub level control? http://www.kicker.com/kxa24001-2400-watt-mono-amplifier

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Looks like a killer amp.

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Originally Posted by MLA

Using 2013 KX2400.1 retail price, it comes out to $.46 p/watt rms. For comparison, the xm20.1 is about $.38 p/watt rms. So very close.

The amp is 1 ohm stable, which allows for the flexibility to bolt up to an existing woofer setup that might be 1 ohm. However, its rms is based on 2 ohm, which is its ideal operating impedance. If you look close, Kicker states that you may see a 10% +/- rms @ 1 ohm This because they built it to safely run a 1 ohm load, but designed its power output for a 2 ohm load.

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My options honestly on power would be to keep my existing PPI P1000.1 and get a second one and have each amp going to an L7. Or I could sell off the PPI P1000.1 and power both L7's with an Exile 20.1

I am leaning towards the Exile. I'm friends with Brian and could likely get a price hookup from him that would make the kicker prohibitively expensive. If the choice was a pair of PPI 1000.1 amps or a single Exile 20.1, What would you choose?

I have seen this approach a lot. There are varying degrees of regulation among amplifiers. The ability to accept a 1-ohm load can add another product application in offering more versatility in subwoofer combinations. So it would be easy enough to decrease the supply voltage when terminating into a 1-ohm load and keep the amplifier in a safe mode. This would provide better thermal stability. True, no additional power at 1-ohm versus 2-ohm, but with every amplifier the supply IS limited. A better scheme than perhaps losing 35% of the power at 2-ohms....and because when is 2400 watts not enough.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nl7sspxalo...20AM.jpeg?dl=1

Volt Meters mounted behind the grille fabric, so they are kind of hidden unless you look at them straight on.

I might change this, can't decide if I like it or not.

MinersMoss floor back in and trimmed for the new enclosure, forgot to post this the other day;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v8rvyl47v4...20AM.jpeg?dl=1

I've never been super happy with the paint job that I gave my XM9s, and after 3 seasons they were showing some wear, so I scuffed them down and re-sprayed last night. So far they have come out much nicer than before :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zhoc5jpi5o...%20PM.jpg?dl=1

How do you attach the trim panel to the sub box? Are the subs screwed through the trim panel and into the sub box? If so, did u use a gasket or sealant between trim panel and sub box to make sure its sealed? Thanks!


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It just mounts in between the box and the speakers. It's wrapped in vinyl, which seems to act as a gasket.

Turns out one of the L7s is bad - I bought them used, so whatevs.

Soooooo, I ordered 2 new ones today, went with dual 2 ohm instead, so I'll drive the amp a little cooler.

Wednesday the subs and my repaired SXT9Qs get delivered. :):):)

Oh man. The 2 ohm L712s series-parallel to 2 ohms the 2000.1 seems to be the perfect combination.

In my head, next winters project is evolving - ditching the 6.5" cabins for 8"


Has anyone done this in a Moomba yet?

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Originally Posted by ian ashton

Oh man. The 2 ohm L712s series-parallel to 2 ohms the 2000.1 seems to be the perfect combination.

In my head, next winters project is evolving - ditching the 6.5" cabins for 8"


Has anyone done this in a Moomba yet?

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I still have a set of slightly used SX80Ms in the classifieds that would fit right in with your Exile set up!!!

Did you sell your XM9s?

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Originally Posted by ian ashton

Did you sell your XM9s?

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Yes........

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Originally Posted by ian ashton

In my head, next winters project is evolving - ditching the 6.5" cabins for 8"
Has anyone done this in a Moomba yet?

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I thought someone did this and posted on here but couldn't find it. There is a guy who did it in his Malibu though. If you haven't registered over at wakegarage.com I highly recommend it for the projects help and ideas. Here's a link to the post:

http://www.wakegarage.com/projects-a...rs-in-lsv-r54/

I finally got the XM2000.1 mounted (yep, went a month with it sitting on the floor - I'm the picture of discretion)

I've got a bunch of wiring clean-up to do still, but at least everything has a place now :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tz26qz4s3x...%20PM.jpg?dl=1