'09 Indmar assault issues

Greetings, unfortunately I'm having some issues and wanted to get some advice. The boat ('09 moomba lsv) is not getting above 2k rpm and not past approx 10 mph and the transmission light stays on past 1200.

So far I have tried to address things that I could think of including: fuel filter, cap and rotor, changed vdrive oil, added heet (thought possibly old fuel w/ water). Next step is changing plugs and wires (have both on, haven't water tested yet). If this doesn't help then I'll probably grab a fuel pressure tester to rule out fuel pump.

The previous owner's mechanic suggested seeing if the throttle body opened with key on, engine off and it did not. He hasn't gotten back to me to suggest what this means but I'm guessing throttle position sensor but I can't find it! On the throttle body is something that I'm not sure (left side of picture, took it off and is gears) and I read that the tps is by the throttle cable but still can't find it.

Anyways, if you guys have any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it as I hate to continue to throw (non routine tune ups) parts on the boat hoping it will fix.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...g/IMG_3026.jpg

Also, since this thread is here. The wake plate isn't working, checked connections on the "blinker" and looked fine but see no fluid reservoir in the engine compartment by the ski pylon. Also, the gauge moves with different toggles being pushed. Guessing wiring issue but looking under dash is a bit intimidating. Overall getting kind of frustrated with my new boat :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by _fng_

Also, since this thread is here. The wake plate isn't working, checked connections on the "blinker" and looked fine but see no fluid reservoir in the engine compartment by the ski pylon. Also, the gauge moves with different toggles being pushed. Guessing wiring issue but looking under dash is a bit intimidating. Overall getting kind of frustrated with my new boat :(

---

edit: looks like the newer wake plates are electronic, didn't see the year for transfer to electric vs hydraulic.

Had a similar experience with a friends LSV where the engine wouldn't rev and a new set of plugs was the cure.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by _fng_

Greetings, unfortunately I'm having some issues and wanted to get some advice. The boat ('09 moomba lsv) is not getting above 2k rpm and not past approx 10 mph and the transmission light stays on past 1200.

So far I have tried to address things that I could think of including: fuel filter, cap and rotor, changed vdrive oil, added heet (thought possibly old fuel w/ water). Next step is changing plugs and wires (have both on, haven't water tested yet). If this doesn't help then I'll probably grab a fuel pressure tester to rule out fuel pump.

The previous owner's mechanic suggested seeing if the throttle body opened with key on, engine off and it did not. He hasn't gotten back to me to suggest what this means but I'm guessing throttle position sensor but I can't find it! On the throttle body is something that I'm not sure (left side of picture, took it off and is gears) and I read that the tps is by the throttle cable but still can't find it.

Anyways, if you guys have any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it as I hate to continue to throw (non routine tune ups) parts on the boat hoping it will fix.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...g/IMG_3026.jpg

---

Your Throttle position sensor is on the left with the Pink clip on the plug.
Trans light on until above 1200RPM is normal.
Can you rev the engine past 2K RPM? If so then your TPS is most likely working fine but you can still voltage test it to make sure the 0-100 is working.
I cant recall the actual Voltages but 5V should be 100% open you can google how to test it if you need some pointers.

If the engine will not rev above 2K then I would suspect your position sensor.

If could be a fuel filter problem, it could be bad fuel. most likely not low fuel pressure mainly due to the engine looks for this pressure on startup but could be an issue, not ruling it out.

When you try to accurate past 2K what happens? Nothing, stutters, losses power?

Thanks for the replibs! VA LSV, I've got new plugs and wires in but haven't water tested yet.

Mmandley, in neutral the engine will exceed 2k rpm and sound normal. In gear, the throttle gets to 2k rpms at a normal time (1/4-1/3 throttle down?) But beyond that no change in speed with some mild hesitation.

I'll water test after plugs and wires tomorrow and have a fuel pressure gauge ready if need be. I was wondering if the vdrive light past 1200 rpm could limit rpms? Like send it in limp mode?

Ohhh I miss read that, I thought trans light was on until 1200 not past it.

Deff look into why the trans light is on.

The engine does have limp mode for certain reasons

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=11376

Sent from my P00I using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MJHSupra

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=11376

Sent from my P00I using Tapatalk

---

I saw that too (i've been on the internet searching for answers the past week much to the displeasure of my wife) but the two TPS i bought (1991 and 1999 c1500 as i read both are matches) but neither are close to the tps on my throttle body. Any insight on where this type of tps can be bought?

Did you try to call Indmar?
There is a guy that posts on here, Larry @ Indmar, aka Engine Nut.
He probably has forgotten more then I will ever know about those motors.

Sent from my P00I using Tapatalk

Doing a quick google search and it seems like they push you towards the local dealer (rightfully so). My local dealer (Texas Ski Ranch/Texas Malibu) is great but I'd like to avoid the bill if this is something that can be done with basic mechanical skills.

Sounds about right. Larry is good about what to try first, second, third.

Sent from my P00I using Tapatalk

If you send Engine Nut a PM he will respond with a troubleshooting list.

So good and bad news. Good news is the wires and plugs fixed the acceleration issue. Bad news is the check engine light came back on and the vdrive light never went off. Also, au idle the voltage gauge was around 14 but with acceleration it would go up to 16+! I'm pretty sure the voltage gauge is accurate because at key on its low 12s.

Could a bad alternator cause a spike in voltage with acceleration leading to check engine light?

V-drive has an oil pressure switch on the right side that are know to fail. Short the 2 wires together to prove out the v-drive light goes out. Doesn't sound like an alternator problem but you might want to put a charger on your battery.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VA LSV

V-drive has an oil pressure switch on the right side that are know to fail. Short the 2 wires together to prove out the v-drive light goes out. Doesn't sound like an alternator problem but you might want to put a charger on your battery.

---

Funny, I just did that. Definitely the vdrive sensor. Makes me happy knocking this stuff off slowly but surely. Batteries were charged before I went out, still reading around 12.7 and both are less than a few months old. I guess next time hey my wife to drive so I can check voltage at different spots.

Shouldn't I have a 90a alternator since it's a 2009? Read somewhere that in 09 all indmar was 90a and the one I pulled wadso 70a.Attachment 25323

Edit: looks like that was cat 340 not the assault 325

You don't need ot drive the boat to test max output of the alternator.

Just get the engine to 2K RPM even at no engine load the alternator will max output. Just needs 2K RPM

You should never see over 14V at the alternator, if its going to 16+ you have a bag regulator in the alternator and it can burn up a lot of electronics in the boat over time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mmandley

You don't need ot drive the boat to test max output of the alternator.

Just get the engine to 2K RPM even at no engine load the alternator will max output. Just needs 2K RPM

You should never see over 14V at the alternator, if its going to 16+ you have a bag regulator in the alternator and it can burn up a lot of electronics in the boat over time.

---

Thanks for the reply!

Took it to a alternator shop yesterday and they stated the bearings were going but couldn't test the voltage regulator due to not having the wire harness? Anyways, dB electrical had an exact replacement for 66 and it'll be here Thursday. Fingers crossed!

Got an email out to lenco to troubleshoot the wake plate.

You really need to get with someone that has a scan tool. ROM limited to 2000 might just be an issue that is causing the ECM to limit the RPM to avoid damaging something.

You have a throttle by wire system so the TPS is part of the throttle body and is not replaceable. Bad TPS on this engine most likely would not limit RPM anyway. Are you sure that the cruise control is off. We have seen instances where someone accidentally set the cruise at a low RPM which prevented acceleration ... it is worth a look. If that is not it ... get the engine scanned.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Engine Nut

You really need to get with someone that has a scan tool. ROM limited to 2000 might just be an issue that is causing the ECM to limit the RPM to avoid damaging something.

You have a throttle by wire system so the TPS is part of the throttle body and is not replaceable. Bad TPS on this engine most likely would not limit RPM anyway. Are you sure that the cruise control is off. We have seen instances where someone accidentally set the cruise at a low RPM which prevented acceleration ... it is worth a look. If that is not it ... get the engine scanned.

---

The Engine Nut has spoken . . . . .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Engine Nut

You really need to get with someone that has a scan tool. ROM limited to 2000 might just be an issue that is causing the ECM to limit the RPM to avoid damaging something.

You have a throttle by wire system so the TPS is part of the throttle body and is not replaceable. Bad TPS on this engine most likely would not limit RPM anyway. Are you sure that the cruise control is off. We have seen instances where someone accidentally set the cruise at a low RPM which prevented acceleration ... it is worth a look. If that is not it ... get the engine scanned.

---

Thanks for the insight, I've followed your advice on the mc forum as well. The acceleration issue was resolved with new plugs and wires but check engine light returned. The check engine light returned after being on the boat afew minutes and the voltage gauge read 16+ when accelerating. Got a new alternator in and hoping it was the voltage regulator otherwise she'll go in to the shop Tuesday.

Edit: yes the cruise was off.

Since this is my b*tching thread, I'd add a few other issues i'm working on. The wake plate doesn't work (lenco electric 5 lobe) and the wake plate gauge pegs with turning on the blower or trying to move the "blinker". I checked the connections at the blinker and they were secure; tried to check voltage but it's too tight of a squeeze. I'm hoping a ground is loose somewhere but quick poking around didn't reveal anything.

Also, the horn doesn't work and when pushing it there is clicking sound at the push in circuit breaker but the breaker isn't tripped (nothing pushed out) but with blower on the clicking noise goes away when pushing the horn button. Another weird thing present, when turning on the blower the nav light switch lights up and comes on. Please let this be an easy wiring issue!!!

New alternator fixed voltage gauge and check engine light! My ol man stated that voltage regulators rarely go out but guess that was the case.

Next thing, wake plate/gauge and dash issues.

Any idea what this potentiometer is for? Googgling it gives me little information. It's under the dash and has a nozzle that can be rotated back and forth, speedo calibration, wake plate? Attachment 25345

---

Guess it's for the speedometer. Nozzle must be to fine tune?

Yup, calibrates the speedo.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by _fng_

Also, the horn doesn't work and when pushing it there is clicking sound at the push in circuit breaker but the breaker isn't tripped (nothing pushed out) but with blower on the clicking noise goes away when pushing the horn button. Another weird thing present, when turning on the blower the nav light switch lights up and comes on. Please let this be an easy wiring issue!!!

---

Sounds like a floating ground. When you turn on your blower, you provide a path to ground for the other circuits although not a very good ground going through a motor. Run a new ground wire or locate the bad connection either an open connection or a high resistance connection. You're getting there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zabooda

Sounds like a floating ground. When you turn on your blower, you provide a path to ground for the other circuits although not a very good ground going through a motor. Run a new ground wire or locate the bad connection either an open connection or a high resistance connection. You're getting there.

---

Thanks for the help and encouragement. I'm going to convince my electrician neighbor that a case of beer is worth his assistance!