I got two rev 10s over the winter and am wondering what amp I need to push them? I will say I don't not want to spend $1000 on a amp I've seen some guys using ppi amps and having good luck.
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I got two rev 10s over the winter and am wondering what amp I need to push them? I will say I don't not want to spend $1000 on a amp I've seen some guys using ppi amps and having good luck.
I would recommend 300 watts atleast on a 4 ohm stereo load, for just 1 pair of speakers you can use a 2 channel amp and save some dough. I would buy a good used on ebay or craigslist. Not being critical but a cheap amp will play the speakers but you got 1200.00 speakers and their are differences in amps.
I'm curious about the mono vs stereo. I was thinking the same as you but I've seen the jl750.1 as a recommended amp, which is mono.
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I think they recommend mono so when wakeboarding and youre off axis ( to the side ) you can still hear the full range of music.
Exactly. When off-axis and outside the wake or just at rest, you will hear all material from both channels versus just the content of one channel. Also, the sweet spot in order to enjoy any kind of stereo image from the tower speakers is a very limited area in both width and depth. So the benefits of stereo aren't there like you would have in-the-boat when you are seated in between the coaming speakers. With a horizontal tower array of four side-by-side speakers, there is no stereo effect anywhere. Also, keep in mind that a mono signal can be very different than a bridged signal, and only select amplifiers can correctly sum the signal at the input. Either way, neither scheme is an absolute. Either works.
The PPI amplifier, like the P900.4 bridged into two speakers is okay as a budget option. But this is a very bare bones, simplistic amplifier. Most people make their value assessment on a price per power ratio. There are lots of holes in that assessment and there is so much more to consider. Those who upgraded later on would notice a performance difference even with amplifiers rated at the same power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cjackson1123
The new Wetsounds SYN DX 4-channel or the JL Audio HD750/1 monoblock are two very good options that come in at a lower cost and have the power to drive the Rev10s to potential.
Is the ht4 referenced in other threads, currently on sale, a workable amplifier in this scenario since is it 300x2 @ 4ohms in mono?
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The normal non audiophile ear you won't hear the difference in motion at the volume levels we listen to on the water. You will still have stereo sound assuming your in boats are wired to be played at stereo but your towers will basically drown them out. (SAME principle for subwoofers) The purpose in a mono signal going to them is it gets the ohm load down to allow you to pull more power out of your amp. This will be more bang for your buck. MLA or Davidanalog can giving different reasons but this is the most common. To wire the towers stereo, will require a bigger amp and most won't spring for that so to get the volume they desired out of a smaller amp they will try to turn the gain up on the amp creating heat from distorsion and possibly damaing the speakers; where as with on a lower ohm load and more power you will have lower gain levels and the possibility of less distortion saving the speakers.
Has the wide range 750/1 proven to work as well as the full range? I was going to pull it and put my 600/4 in my old boat and didn't get it done. Wondering if I need to look for an older 750/1 or if the new one will work.
Very good question. Most people don't realize that all Class D amplifiers are analog switching and all have 1st order inductors on the final output to filter out any switching artifacts. In the case of the JL Audio HD600/4 the switching speed is more than 20 times the top end of the audible bandwidth so the filtering takes place at a much higher frequency, hence provides more top end response. So if I had a luxury car with a marshmallow ride with $1000 of sound damping treatment and $1000 a pair separate component speakers driven by lossless files through an outboard DAC, I'm running the HD600/4. No question. The reality is that the HD750/1 has less top end response than the HD600/1 but is within the limits of many so-called 'fullrange' Class D amplifiers that use a slower switching speed. So as tested it's down a couple of dB at 18kHz into a 4-ohm load and a couple of dB more at a 2-ohm load (a factor with the inductors of all Class D amplifiers). You don't realize this because other manufacturers don't give you a frequency response with a +/- dB qualifier. They may be rated to 20kHz but down how many dB? And their power is only rated at 1kHz @ 1% distortion. JL Audio just happens to be very conservative and very thorough in all ratings.Quote:
Originally Posted by beat taco
HLCDs don't extend flat to 20 kHz and you won't hear 20 kHz unless you're a 12 year old girl. So there is no chance that you could tell the difference on the tower. The HD750/1 has been a real success on the tower because it is a superior sounding amplifier in this application. And btw, a slight change in the HD750/1 switching speed took place long before JL Audio altered the spec, so an older model would not make a difference in any case.
Obviously I enjoy the subject of audio. So please indulge me in this. The above mono vs stereo discussion reminded me of the following subject.
I've always been frustrated when the tower speaker mounting positions are greatly offset in the front to rear depth. Why does this matter?
For example, if the speakers were to be offset by 2 feet, then from around 200 to 350 Hz you will have a progressive null in the response with a deeper cancellation centered at 275 Hz. And that is an area where you need all the lower midrange warmth that a tower speaker can give you. But it also smears the time alignment of all frequencies. That's a very real and audible form of distortion that sacrifices coherency. For instance, with two speakers staggered at 2 feet, at around 8 kHz, that very piercing area of the treble, one tweeter is propagating that frequency 15 times more than the other. Up until now, the tower dictates the speaker mounting positions and there was absolutely nothing you can do about it. Up until now. With Digital Signal Processing and the right amplifier channel make-up you can do total time correction.
Also, with a horizontal array, by fanning out the speakers and using center to outside time delay, you can eliminate for the most part any off-axis time smear and comb filtering....that's when listening off-axis, the far left and far right speakers are at different distances from the listener perception point and tend to partially sum and cancel at various listening positions and at various frequencies.
This solution can also greatly impact the subwoofer to tower speaker coherency, especially if you choose a particular focal point behind the boat based on the way you use the system.
Many will say you can't get good sound quality in a boat. That's certainly true when on plane, with engine noise, wind noise, and the hull slapping against a little chop. But that is not the only scenario of how people listen to music on and around their boats. With a boat you definitely have some disadvantages. Like the fact that sound energy flash dissipates in open air. But with that comes certain advantages. On the flipside, in an open boat you have almost exclusively the incidental radiation, meaning the originating sound only and without interference from reflected energy. If you understand this, you can use it to your advantage, especially in the way you tune a boat system differently from a car system. In contrast, in an enclosed car, truck, or SUV cabin, there are six sides folded around you and your speakers. Yes, that definitely tends to preserve the sound pressure level, but it also creates as much reflected radiation as incidental radiation. And this causes problems with standing waves, both in positive-reinforcement and in negative-cancellations. Again, things that you are fortunate to avoid in an open boat.
Just food for thought. There are others that are building these type systems today.
Wow you guys have went way above my head with all this I really just need someone to tell me which one to buy or look for and I'll do that. Yall are way more knowledgeable and in depth then I understand.
An amp like the JL 750/1 is truly a mono amp, so question there. An like the Wet Sounds SD-2 and Syn-2/Syn-DX2 are, are their core, 2 chnl stereo amp, same as the Arc KS600.2 and KS300.2. But even then, I still run them in mono for a tower setup. The Syn-4/DX4, SD-4 and SD-6 can be setup to run a pair of tower speakers in stereo, but again, I prefer to run them mono. Not many The SD-6 will also allow for bridged mono or stereo. Not many amps out there that will let you do with a pair of tower setups like these high end amp. Theres WAY more to it than just wattage.
At best, an amp like the PPi900.4, polk 4000.4, exile xm15.4 and xm30.2, Wet Sounds HT4, kicker KXM400.4 and KXM400.2 will let you run stereo, and thats if you bridge and configure the RCAs properly on the 4 chnls.
Theres nothing wrong with stereo on a tower setup, but as been noted, when off axis, like surfing, you are getting most of your music from that one speaker thats closest to you. In a stereo setup, you are missing some content. Mono lets you get it all. A high end that runs mono properly, can make a tower setup just that much better sounding.
JL HD 750/1, best setup I ever had. I didn't get there overnight if you know what I mean. I wasted some money along the way. I bought all my JL HD amps on ebay far below retail, even bought one in non woking condition knowing JL Audio can rebuild them for $180. But you have many many options. And obviously my methods assume some risk as to no warranties and not using authorized dealers. PM me for info on other brands/retailers if you want. I'm not looking to get ripped by everyone for my opinions/practices but I've had great experiences with many brands and suppliers I'm willing to share privately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cjackson1123
Thanks beat really appreciate the info.
What's your tow rig? I've seen an ecoboost guy with the same handle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cjackson1123
Nissan titan.
David or MLA.. To clarify, can you get mono out of a syn 4 bridged to a pair of Rev 10's and everything be all good?
I ran 2 pairs of rev10's off dual syn 4's, each bridged, on the last boat. I thought it was a great setup and has each 10 getting 400 watts.
yes, sure canQuote:
Originally Posted by FlatLander7