Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches

I know some of you have done the upgrade from Wakemakers, and it says right on their site that it doesn't include instructions for how to wire to the factory switches. I know that the upgrade kit comes with pre-wired connectors, but I have some questions around that.

1) What is the best way to route the electrical from the pumps to the switches? (I plan to put all three pumps right under the ski pole.)

2) How do I get power from the battery? Is there a fuse block under the helm I can tap into? (Boat is in storage, so I can't look.)

3) It doesn't look like the kit comes with fuses. Do I need to put in-line fuses in? From what I've read, I will need 25's.

Pictures would be very helpful if anyone has them or can take them. I appreciate any advice anyone has!

How many batteries do you have and where are they?

2 batteries and a Perko switch. Located under the passenger (port) seat where most are.


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1. Depends, if you're pulling up the floor to add a new hose then use the floor channel. The easiest is to run the wires in the wiring chase, along the drivers side. If you look towards the rear from underneath the helm near the sidewall you'll see what I'm talking about. Just follow the existing wires and ziptie them out of the way.

2. Each pump uses 15-20 amp on startup, the OEM system can't handle that. You need to install a new fuse block, depending on where you batteries is/are this can be easy/hard. You may already have a separate fuse box under the helm, it should have a large 10 gauge or so supply. I had to run a 10 gauge wire from my battery in the storage area under the floor into the helm. My second boat this was already there..

Fuse block, fuse holder, fuse.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My older setup:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....hlight=ballast

3. Buy breakers instead of fuses, these reset after they cool, otherwise you'll be replacing fuses all the time. The fuse box cover doesn't fit with the breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4. Switch location, I moved the key start to the other side and used that are for the ballast switches.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....hlight=ballast

Instead of the 100amp fuse, this is much better. My 06 has this, not sure if thats standard or someone added it.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Surface+Mount

Ok, so I literally just finished this project on Saturday. It is a lot to do but not too bad. You can either run the wiring from the pumps to the switches 2 ways. You can run them over the gas tank (once the floor is pulled up) where the old wiring is. It comes up under the dash where most of the dash wiring is. The other option is to run the wires from the pump to the starboard side of the boat and then up the side behind the seats to the switches. That is what I did. It was much easier to do that than try and fish the wires up through the hole under the dash.

I ran the wires from the battery to the switches through the ski locker and up under the dash and to the switches. If you can get your head in the ski locker (which isn't too easy) you can see that there are a lot of wires the go from the port side to the starboard side through the ski locker. I just followed those wires. They come up through the hole under the dash and then run them to the switches. You will have 2 wires going to each switch, one from the pump and one from the battery. Unplug the old wiring from in back of the switches and put the connectors on and then wire them up. Pretty easy. Spencer suggested not going through a fuse block, just run the wires straight from the battery to the switches.

they do provide 3 in-line fuses to connect to the positive coming from the battery and they are 30amp fuses. I asked Spencer at Wakemakers were the best place to put them is and he suggested to connect one side right to the battery terminal. The closer to the battery the better is what he said.

I took some pictures and was going to post them up here soon. Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 996scott

Ok, so I literally just finished this project on Saturday. It is a lot to do but not too bad. You can either run the wiring from the pumps to the switches 2 ways. You can run them over the gas tank (once the floor is pulled up) where the old wiring is. It comes up under the dash where most of the dash wiring is. The other option is to run the wires from the pump to the starboard side of the boat and then up the side behind the seats to the switches. That is what I did. It was much easier to do that than try and fish the wires up through the hole under the dash.

I ran the wires from the battery to the switches through the ski locker and up under the dash and to the switches. If you can get your head in the ski locker (which isn't too easy) you can see that there are a lot of wires the go from the port side to the starboard side through the ski locker. I just followed those wires. They come up through the hole under the dash and then run them to the switches. You will have 2 wires going to each switch, one from the pump and one from the battery. Unplug the old wiring from in back of the switches and put the connectors on and then wire them up. Pretty easy. Spencer suggested not going through a fuse block, just run the wires straight from the battery to the switches.

they do provide 3 in-line fuses to connect to the positive coming from the battery and they are 30amp fuses. I asked Spencer at Wakemakers were the best place to put them is and he suggested to connect one side right to the battery terminal. The closer to the battery the better is what he said.

I took some pictures and was going to post them up here soon. Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to help.

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Using the fuse block is a cleaner and safer install, not to mention once you start up grading you'll be glad you'll have the extra fuse box for other mods. Both will work, but once you get the modding bug you're not going to stop...... :)

Make sure work out how you fasten those wires down to the battery so they stay put, In my boat a ton of crap gets thrown in there and I've ripped off amp wires connected like that. You then get the fun job of pulling everything out and climbing back into that hole to fix it, usually with all the screaming family & friends.. lol..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by parrothd

1. Depends, if you're pulling up the floor to add a new hose then use the floor channel. The easiest is to run the wires in the wiring chase, along the drivers side. If you look towards the rear from underneath the helm near the sidewall you'll see what I'm talking about. Just follow the existing wires and ziptie them out of the way.

2. Each pump uses 15-20 amp on startup, the OEM system can't handle that. You need to install a new fuse block, depending on where you batteries is/are this can be easy/hard. You may already have a separate fuse box under the helm, it should have a large 10 gauge or so supply. I had to run a 10 gauge wire from my battery in the storage area under the floor into the helm. My second boat this was already there..

Fuse block, fuse holder, fuse.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My older setup:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....hlight=ballast

3. Buy breakers instead of fuses, these reset after they cool, otherwise you'll be replacing fuses all the time. The fuse box cover doesn't fit with the breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4. Switch location, I moved the key start to the other side and used that are for the ballast switches.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....hlight=ballast

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Thanks, parrothd. I want to make sure I understand how this all works. Forgive my ignorance.

The fuse holder and fuse (terminal fuse block & fuse) go right on the battery post. Then, run 10 gauge wire from there to the block under the helm. Then, use the breakers instead of the fuses in the fuse block.

I like this option. Much cleaner. Should I buy two of the 100 amp fuses to have a spare in the boat? Or are the chances of that blowing slim to none since I'll have 3 30 amp breakers in the fuse block and that is it?

Thanks for all the help!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by boarder3304

Thanks, parrothd. I want to make sure I understand how this all works. Forgive my ignorance.

The fuse holder and fuse (terminal fuse block & fuse) go right on the battery post. Then, run 10 gauge wire from there to the block under the helm. Then, use the breakers instead of the fuses in the fuse block.

I like this option. Much cleaner. Should I buy two of the 100 amp fuses to have a spare in the boat? Or are the chances of that blowing slim to none since I'll have 3 30 amp breakers in the fuse block and that is it?

Thanks for all the help!

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Yep, except if you have the budget, buy the 100 Amp breaker instead of the 100 amp fuse and fuse holder. You can reset that one as well.. :)

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Surface+Mount

Battery > short 10 gauge > 100 breaker> 10 gauge to under helm > fuse block > 25 amp breakers.

From the fuse block to the + on the switches...

The previous owner installed the perko and 100amp breaker and a buss bar instead of a fuse block, the 25 amp breakers are longer than normal fuses. I used fuse adapters instead of replacing..

I would not suggest a fuse for the main helm BUS, but rather a manual reset breaker. Blown fuse, you are dead in the water. Breakers can be be reset, allowing you to limp home.

Thanks for all the help guys. Brought the boat home from storage today. Getting ready to start on this.

Dumb question: How do I pull up the floor to access the channel on the top of the gas tank? I pulled the back seat, and the v-drive cover, then pulled hard on the floor, and it is just solid. Not moving at all. Is there some trick I'm missing?

Also, what's the best way to run the fill/drain line for the IBS? I'm coming off the pump into a Y with one side going to the belly bag, the other going to the IBS. Do I need to drill a new hole? Or am I better off running it in the chase on the driver side?

Screws in the floor , they are tough to find in the carpet, then the floor comes up.

I ran my ibs up through the chase in the hump to the top of the to fill.

There's 4 per panel, 1 (2-4 inches from the corner)in each corner, the one by the drivers seat is in the middle along the side...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by boarder3304

Thanks for all the help guys. Brought the boat home from storage today. Getting ready to start on this.

Dumb question: How do I pull up the floor to access the channel on the top of the gas tank? I pulled the back seat, and the v-drive cover, then pulled hard on the floor, and it is just solid. Not moving at all. Is there some trick I'm missing?

Also, what's the best way to run the fill/drain line for the IBS? I'm coming off the pump into a Y with one side going to the belly bag, the other going to the IBS. Do I need to drill a new hole? Or am I better off running it in the chase on the driver side?

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Any update on this project? Did you finish it?

Yes, I did finish it. I don't have any pictures, but can take some if necessary. I ran 6 gage wire from the battery, through a 100 AMP breaker, to an auxiliary 100 AMP panel mounted under the helm. I am using three 25 AMP breakers in the auxiliary panel. My fill time went from 30-40 minutes to right around 9 minutes. I'm VERY happy with the result.

Lessons learned
1) Thru hull placement. Make sure you leave enough room to spin the ball valves on. I had it all lined up, was able to move the handles just fine. Drilled the holes, went to spin the second ball valve on, and didn't have enough clearance. I got very lucky that I found one at a plumbing supply warehouse that gave me JUST enough clearance to spin it on. So, check, and double check that you have enough room.

2) When tightening the thru hull nut on the mushroom, it takes two people. One under the boat holding the end of a breaker bar or something in the mushroom, the other doing the tightening of the nut inside the boat.

3) Definitely get the check valves from Wakemakers for your vent lines. The bags do suck down like raisins.

4) I added an IBS at the same time. I am filling the belly bag and the IBS off of the same pump. I did a single line from the pump, under the floor, and then Y it right near the drivers seat. Two issues with this. First, the belly bag is smaller, so it fills faster, and the floor is popping b/c the bag is so full. Second, b/c the run from the Y to the belly bag is shorter, it is filling MUCH faster than the IBS. So, the belly bag is full long before the IBS. It isn't a huge problem, I'm just worried about the pressure that is getting put on the belly bag.

5) I am going to be re-doing the lines to my rear bags. I set them up so that the ports/lines are towards the front of the boat. The issue I am having is that when they are draining, they start sucking air long before the bags are empty. This is b/c the boat is back heavy and the water is just settling at the back of the bag. So, flipping the bags around should resolve this issue.

6) The one inch lines and the barbed connections are VERY tight. You absolutely need a heat gun, or at least a hair dryer. I also used some hand sanitizer as lube, which worked really well. (The hand sanitizer idea came from Oakley. I watched a video on how to change my ear socks, and they recommended to use it as it will simply evaporate.)

7) I discovered I have a weak battery. I run a two battery setup, and about the third time I had it out after the upgrades, I had all sorts of issues. I had horrible feedback coming out of the stereo. The pumps wouldn't run, or would just barely turn on. I changed the breakers out for fuses. I switched the battery switch to be dedicated to the battery the pumps were on. I even took everything off of that battery except for the pumps. Still the same issues. I switched the pumps to the other battery, and all the issues went away. Put the bad battery on the charger and it was dead. Charged it up completely, put it back in, and the issues were gone. So, the battery just isn't holding a charge, and that low power causes all sorts of problems.

Any pictures of your thru hull locations from the inside?


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Don't have any on my phone, but will take some next time I'm at the boat.


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Reviving an old thread here… I’ve done the 3-ballast pump upgrade (kept the G3 in place and use it for the orig 3 bags but moved the rear bags under the seats). For wiring, I followed Parrothd’s method. I’ve got 2 batteries w/ a VSR: House Batt > 2ga wire > 100amp breaker > 2ga wire > panel w/ 25 amp fuses > 12ga wire > switches > 12ga wire > pumps.

At idle, the dash gauge says I’m getting ~14v but as I start turning on switches/pumps, the voltage drops to sub-13v. At higher rpms, the voltage returns to ~14v w/ all 3 pumps running. My question is whether this is normal. A search of the forums indicates my alternator should generate 70amps at idle but this is clearly not the case (assuming 3 pumps draw ~45 amps).

So, do I need: (i) alternator replacement/upgrade; (ii) smaller pulley for current alternator; or (iii) check the VSR and/or house battery?

THX

Pretty much normal, the voltage gauges aren't very accurate. Use a volt meter to verify. When I have 3-4 pumps on my voltage will drop near or below 12. Your battery health plays a big role. I had to replace a battery the other day, having the heater on would cause perfect pass to reset and boat to stumble due to low voltage.

At idle, it is normal for alternator output to drop when load increases. As RPM increase, the alternator output goes up. Although you may have a 70A rated alt, you will almost never see an alt hit its peak out in the real world. Mainly because most of the current draw is coming off the battery, battery level starts to drop, alternator senses this and increases output. The battery acts a filter for the load, rather than the load the going straight to the alternator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leebo

At idle, the dash gauge says I’m getting ~14v but as I start turning on switches/pumps, the voltage drops to sub-13v. At higher rpms, the voltage returns to ~14v w/ all 3 pumps running. My question is whether this is normal. A search of the forums indicates my alternator should generate 70amps at idle but this is clearly not the case (assuming 3 pumps draw ~45 amps).

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Normal and it doesn't take much engine speed to get it back up to 14V, even about 1000rpm does it for me maybe just a bit more with 3 running. If I'm sitting still, I put it in neutral and bump the throttle a bit.

Awesome, thanks for the sanity check fellas!!!

Mine does the same. I time getting to the surf spot and set the PP for 10MPH. That way I get the RPM's up while traveling to the surf spot so I don't waste time and fuel sitting there waiting for bags to fill. 10MPH keeps me from going more than surf speed while under load. I am using three of the Johnson pumps. I used to only use two at a time before the suck gate but now we fill all three at the same time so it is a bigger load.
I completely scrapped all electrical and plumbing other than the one through hull. I used the old fuse block and added two more holes in the hull for a parallel system.

got the g3 upgrade box last week, anyone have any pics of thru hull locations and or install? I havent been to the boat yet this year, i figured i would be proactive in finding info

They have a video linked on their site. Worked for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8oprSN59A8