Installed a pair of wet sounds rev 8 speakers and want to install a single 10" sub with them on same amp. Which amp should I use and how would I wire it?
Jordan
2014 moomba möbius lsv
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Installed a pair of wet sounds rev 8 speakers and want to install a single 10" sub with them on same amp. Which amp should I use and how would I wire it?
Jordan
2014 moomba möbius lsv
I would suggest that you consider not using a single amp for those 2 zones, unless its something like the Wet Sounds SD-4 or Syn-6. These amps will handle the load without batting an eye. Those are the two hardest driven zones in a boat. Using a 5 or 6 chnl amp in 3 chnl mode has all chnls driving a 2 ohm load. Thats a lot to ask of most amp. Using dedicated amp allows each to be driven at a more comfortable pace, each by their own power supply.
You should be able to accomplish this in a single amplifier chassis. We know you have a single pair of Wetsounds Rev8s but a good amplifier recommendation cannot follow until we know the specific subwoofer in play (brand/model/size/impedance). If you are still looking to make the sub selection then at least give us a size target.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrichard1987
Well I already have the amp that came with the boat I could wire into the sub (don't have a sub yet) to make things simple I should just do that. Now I just need to find a good quality amp for the rev 8's that's not a $1200 wet sounds amp. I was told clarion xc6410. I want to make sure I'm giving these speakers the best power they deserve!
Jordan
2014 moomba möbius lsv
A single amp option for the rev-8 would be the HT-4. 300W rms potential.
Is that not too much? Don't the speakers want continuous 200 watt rms? I'm a heavy duty mechanic so I'm mechanically inclined but I have very little experience with stereo equipment so forgive my lack of knowledge haha
Jordan
2014 moomba möbius lsv
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrichard1987
Targeting above a speaker's RMS is never a bad thing. The added headroom means performance can be achieved at a lower volume dial setting and the gain level can be set lower. Also, keep in mind that with most typical amps, there is a difference in output between engine running alternator voltage and engine off static battery voltage. This equals less output.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrichard1987
Jordan,
Don't select an amplifier until you have selected a specific subwoofer.
Once having a specific sub in the plan you may find that a single chassis multi-channel amplifier has adequate power and thermal stability. Or you may need to step up to a 5-channel amplifier with separate power supplies. Or you may have a sub that dictates the need for separate amplifiers. But the sub and speaker selection comes first.
To place a finer point on Mike's power comment. An unregulated amplifier will typically lose 25% of its 14.4V rated power with a more realistic 12.6V supply with less power as the supply voltage declines. So when recommending the right power we tend to include these type of facts in our assessment.
So unless I run my dial full blast continuously I should never have a problem right? Shouldn't be a problem for me as I always pack my kids in the boat and am really trying to get the sound more out to the rider than in the boat. Any pointers on getting more sound out there and less in the boat? Kinda hard with the forward swooping tower I'm guessing
Jordan
2014 moomba möbius lsv
Right. And if the system is tuned correctly that really helps keep you away from potentially damaging power. You must stay within what has been pre-determined as a full non-clipping level and be disciplined as the day gets longer, your ears become traumatized and loud no longer sounds as loud.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrichard1987
Right again. It is difficult because whatever is loud at the end of a rope is MUCH louder just a few feet away. That much is unavoidable. You can cheat just a little by raising the angle on the tower speakers. They may not rest perfectly parallel with the ground when on the trailer but will run parallel with the water when the boat is pulling and squatted.
Awesome thanks! Think I'm gonna order the HT-4 and save the $100 off the syn 2. Already hooked up the sub to my old amp and rms matches perfect bridged sounds good!!
Jordan
2014 moomba möbius lsv
I run 2 Rev10s with a JL M400/4. Sounds great.
I'll Bet!Quote:
Originally Posted by Getting' It
I used the MHD600/4 for my Bullet Hollowpoints. They screamed.
Got me thinking about a question for the pro's..........
setup: Rev10's, xs650 in boats, xs12 sub
Which option is better and why?
option 1: JL MHD600/4 running towers and a 2nd JL MHD600/4 running in-boats and sub?
option 2: stay all WS and go SD2 running towers and SD6 running in-boats and sub?
Jl amps worked great in the old ride, but now exile does the the heavy lifting .
For only a little more money, id consider 2 SD-6 and add another pair of in-boats.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
2 MDH600/4:
MDH to pair of Rev-10 = 300W rms each
one half of MDH bridged to 4 ohm XS-12 = 300W rms
one half of MDH for 2 pair in-boats - 75W each
2 SD-6:
585 available to each Rev-10. More headroom then the SD-2 and 2x the wattage from the mdh600/4
585 to 4 ohm xs-12. 2x over the mdh600/4
185 available for each xs-650 with room for another pair.
sorry.......didn't specify 3 pair of in-boat xs-650s
Good to know. 2 SD-6 would be the way to go as 2 600/4's arent enough amp chnls for 6 in-boats, a sub and a pair of 10" HLCDs.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
MLA can you not run 6-650's off 4 of the channels on the sd-6 and the sub.
then the sd-2 for the pair of rev10's with room for a 2nd pair?
Sure can! If a 2nd pair of tower speakers is in the future, then the SD-2 is the way to go. If you are thinking about adding that 2nd pair, then compare the cost of 2 SD-6 to an SD-6 and SD-2.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
With the SD-2/SD-6 setup, your output would be:
400W to eachh rev-10
585 for the sub
145W for each in-boat.
You can't really compare head to head the strictly regulated JL Audio HD amplifier power specs with other unregulated amplifiers. The JL Audio HD delivers it's full rated power at any voltage you will use on a boat while an unregulated amplifier typically loses 25% of its 14.4V rated power with a 12.6V supply.
But here are a few specifics. The JL Audio HD750/1 is a better choice for one set of tower speakers as compared to an HD600/4. 25% more power at a lower cost. 375 watts per speaker of strictly regulated power will give you all that the Rev10s can handle.
The 300 watts of the robust HD600/4 will certainly compare favorably to a 400 watt amplifier from another brand, not to mention it has twin power supplies, which is rare for a 4-channel. Never the less I fell like 400 watts is just a bit light for an XS12. Another HD750/1 is on the strong side for the XS12.
If an HD600/4 could make four HLCDs scream off the tower then you should have no reservations as to what it can do with six in-boat 6.5" coaxials.
Since the HDs are strictly regulated then put a 1.33 % multiplier on their power when comparing to any non-regulated amplifier. Then compare the power per dollar value.
Both the JL Audio and Wetsounds SD series are top quality Class D amplifiers, domestically engineered, with premium parts. Heads and shoulders above the rest of the pack.
I like the subsonic filter used in the HD750/1, especially if running bass-reflex.
I like the extra power of an SD2 if there are plans to add a second pair.
I like getting it done with two chassis versus three, but on the flipside it is hard to discount four power supplies and all that cast heat sink.
Both schemes have merit. I wouldn't hesitate with either.
Make the columnar comparison list. Green accounting pads and all. Power. Price. Other Pros and Cons of each.
It will come to you.