I have an 06 Moomba LSV and I'm looking to relocate my batteries and mount my amps for a cleaner look.
Any suggestions?
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I have an 06 Moomba LSV and I'm looking to relocate my batteries and mount my amps for a cleaner look.
Any suggestions?
Depends on your current situation. Where are the batteries and amps now? Also what type of batteries are you using?
My batteries & amps are currently located in the cubby. I'm also buying two new batteries this spring.
Your best bet is going to be where they are. Most people build an amp rack and mount it to the side of the hull, using the rail at the floor, and the back side of the rub rail. You can screw into these but only about 1/2 inch.
Batteries, if they are traditional Wet cell, then you have to leave them upright, this leaves you in the cubby, or under the drivers helm.
If you get Gel style batteries that can be laid on there side then you can move the batteries into a storage compartment, or in the bow, or drivers helm, you will just need to extend your power and ground wires.
Just to clarify, Gel and AGM batteries are often confused.
One key to a clean and seviceable amplifier panel is to have plenty of extra real estate for distribution, wire raceways and strain reliefs/tie-downs.
The hull surface of that year probably will not give you direct mounting provisions, but once you resolve that you will have a very spacious panel for multiple amplifiers, possibly a battery charger, and all the necessities. The ability to service and tune will be a breeze.
There really are not many good alternatives for mounting batteries beyond the sole of the observer's locker. You can usually move the batteries forward to give more storage room. Just make sure that the battery switch is positioned just inside the locker opening for convenience. Every wire/cable feed can be easily extended. But you may want to look over the length and access of the heavy B+ and ground coming from the engine in advance before planning a relocation.
David
Here is a link that shows my setup: https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....6619#post96619
He will benifit more from an OB owner posting pictures because the 05 LSV is what became the OBV and the all new LSV was released in 06 which is wider and deeper.Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
His post says 06, sig says 05. Either way it will give him a picture to look at and maybe some ideas. Did you skip breakfast this morning or what? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
Now you got me thinking of moving one of my group 29s to the driver side....Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
David, any reason I can't extend the wires on my prosport 20 if i were to move a battery to the other side of the boat?Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine
I can do one half that good.Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
I don't get it???Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine
ProSport says definitely 'NOT' in their manual. However, that is mostly for reasons of liability and not for any functional reason. I wouldn't have any issue with extending the wires to a smaller degree if you used the identical guage. But for a longer extension to the opposite side of the boat, personally I would re-locate the charger....because I do not know at what point the added resistance would influence the profiling of the dual batteries. If you have cut-in an AC inlet, I wouldn't hesitate to extend the 14/3 AC wire to anywhere in a towboat.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
David
It's making fun of one-upmanship. Get it now? It's actually a compliment with a bit of humor....but apparently a very small bit of humor....almost so small that it is completely undetectable.Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Well I don't want to relocate the charge because I don't want to move all of the batteries over, just one or two. Probably Just oneQuote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine
Here's a link to mine, same boat as yours. I run three batteries and put the third one under the port bow seat. Everything is mounted forward of the fresh air bulkhead in order to maximize storage space in the cubby.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....tereo+makeover
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g.../IMG_25922.jpg
Ha ha, well the first post may have gone over my head but this one made up for it. I always laugh loudest at my own jokes.Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine
I am trying eliminate that whole factory amp board on the port bow seat back. here is what i have now and it is a mess IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by cab13367
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/...psdc974c00.jpg
did you trim the seat back amp board to give you more room?Quote:
Originally Posted by cab13367
David,
I prefer the charger on the front wall because you never have to mess with it, and if you do, it's four screws and a couple of quick disconnects, but nothing to adjust.
Then I prefer the amplifiers lined up against the port hull. Easier to tune or access for diagnostics and service.
Quality heavy gauge cable is very expensive for that amount of current without loss and for that distance. Also, you wouldn't want to double the length of the starter/alternator feed without stepping up the gauge. So in any scenario applied to this boat, I just don't feel good about splitting up the batteries.
David
Not to hijack but when is it recommended to go with 3 batteries over 2? I have two now but was thinking of adding another and getting a Prosport20 plus charger. Also, when should someone think up upgrading the alternator?
Right now I have two amps and probably by the end of the summer I will have three. Two Syn4s and a syn2 if I add another set of tower speakers in the future it would be another Syn4 for a future total of 4.
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E4,
Its all about play time will anchored, and thats all. How many Ah (amp hours) will be determined by the approximate current draw of your system at a given volume level x how long you want to play on the water with the engine off. This will then be divided by what size batteries you go with.
if someone never plays while anchored, then they only need a single battery for the all duties. if they want to spend some time playing while anchored, then a dual battery setup is recommend. For those that want to spend an entire weekend jammin while anchored, then it will be a sizable bank with a lot of large batteries.
David,Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
My 2006 did not have an amp board.
Al
Well what I was thinking was just moving one of the stereo batteries and running a 0 gauge power and ground and the prosport wires around under the bow seats to tie to the other stereo battery. I would leave the starting battery as isQuote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine
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Rarely do you need an alternator upgrade if your charging system is otherwise well planned. If you had an inordinately large system, routinely used your boat long weekends camping at a remote destination without over night access to AC power, then a big alternator could be an essential upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by E4NASH
Your stereo battery bank should be large enough that your typical playtime at rest does not deplete the deep cycle batteries below 50% (12.0 volts). So you will know by simply measuring the voltage after a long period playing at rest. Then the battery charger size and capacity is matched to the size of the collective battery reserves. For example, if you had three group 29s for the stereo plus a single group 24 for starting, then a 30 amp charger is a bit undersized while a 40 amp charger is max. A ProSport 20 would be perfect for three total group 24s.
David
So you build that spot where your charger is mounted?Quote:
Originally Posted by cab13367
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That would be okay if you just had one stereo battery. But I wouldn't split up two identical stereo batteries by much distance if I could avoid it in an ideal world. Look, there are conflicts with any charging system that has two banks that are used differently off one alternator. So I am not going to state that it is a prefect scenario now. However, if I had dual stereo batteries, then I would prefer to have two identical batteries in age, size and chemistry....and that would include equal cable size, distance and resistance. Just a base foundation to follow, and not something that is an absolute if you have a good reason to do otherwise.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
David
No, that is just the back side of the bow seatback - it was like that from the factory. You might consider putting your 3rd battery under the bow seat and then sliding your other two batteries forward like I did mine. See pic below.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...y/IMG_2585.jpg
Here's mine... 1 starting behind the observers seat, 2 in the bow in front of the hump. Note: I had to relocate my heater but totally worth the space. For reference these are all group 31 agm's.
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I like that set up. I just feel like all that space from the hump to the IBS is going to waste! Need to stick something in there and batteries would free up space behind the observer seat for items you actually need to access often
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So David, I guess me overall question is what is the worst that can happen by relocating one or both stereo batteries to the other side of the boat?
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Certainly nothing catastrophic will happen. And it's impossible to numerically qualify exactly what would be compromised in the way of performance or longevity. Doubling your cable distance adds resistance and that is counter-productive at every level. You can offset the cable distance with a larger gauge cable. That alone makes it an inefficient move from a standpoint of cost-effectiveness. Real copper heavy gauge cables are brutally expensive unless you are using junk wire on the cheap with reduced copper content at half the weight. While it may be a fraction of the cost, it is also a multiple of the resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
I would not separate two batteries on the same bank by any distance since the ideal scenario is matched batteries in every aspect. I would want them to start out identical and age identically. I would place the charger closest to the deeply cycled bank. If I had an inequity I would place it between the two banks but not between two batteries of the same bank.
David
Which model Promariner Charger is most comonly being used by you guys, 12, 20, or 20 plus?
I got the 20 plus. I'm glad too because I think I am adding a second house battery.
I think the 20 is what comes from the factory
Thank you very much. One of these is on my list...
Just pulled them from the boat. I only plugged the charger in a couple of times over the last five months. Thought I would check their condition. Looks like I can leave them in year round with no worries.
The self-discharge on AGMs is less than on a flooded battery, which is several percent per month. And AGMs rest at about a volt higher to start with. Barely more than a half volt drop over two months is very good.
When checking a battery, make sure to let the charging voltage, whether from an alternator or shore charger, completely dissipate for a true reading.
Having an isolating battery switch helps eliminate any potential for a parasitic drain. And make sure to get the HU memory off line while in long term storage.
With a big audio system and a large battery bank, you still need an AC shore charger for full restoration after a weekend outting. An alternator alone usually won't get it done, especially if you spend any time at rest.
David