Trailer issue help!

So, still a bit cold up here to get out, but needed to pull the boat out to summerize it. Trailer lights worked fine, pulled her out of the garage and I can't back up. This happened once at the beginning of the season a year or two ago. Dealer checked it out and said all was fine. I ran the boat/tailer up and down a rural highway thinking it was just sticking from sitting since October. No such luck. Won't back up.

The wiring harness connections look a bit beat up and I'm thinking that might be the problem. Anyone know where to get new harness (boatmate direct)? It looks like plug and play on the 08 trailers.

Could it be anything else?

Its the back up wire. I cant recall the exact wire but its on the outside of the factory loom.

Use a jumper to get a 12v signal and the reverse soilnoid will release.

I believe its the blue wire... u can put a penny or nickel in the side of the trailer tongue(in the slot where the acuator travels) this will manually block it out so u can back up... it will also stop the surge brake from working so remove it before u hit the road.

Something else you might want to check are your fuses on your truck. Reverse Lock Out or something like that. I had this exact problem when I got my f250 and one of the fuses under the hood ended up being blown. Try to use a different vehicle and see if it will back up then. If it does, it's a fuse, which would save you a lot of money in the long run of troubleshooting. :)

It's either Trailer Reverse or something like that. I don't remember the exact name of it.

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Originally Posted by sicktc06

Something else you might want to check are your fuses on your truck. Reverse Lock Out or something like that. I had this exact problem when I got my f250 and one of the fuses under the hood ended up being blown. Try to use a different vehicle and see if it will back up then. If it does, it's a fuse, which would save you a lot of money in the long run of troubleshooting. :)

It's either Trailer Reverse or something like that. I don't remember the exact name of it.

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Yup... both my truck and tahoe blew fuses at one point and my trailer brakes locked up in reverse.

One short term fix is turn your lights on in the tow vehicle and plug the blue wire on the trailer to the brown wire in the vehicle. You can do this with the flat 5 plug, it will only have 1 pin plugged in but you should be able to back up.

I will ckeck the fuses, thanks guys.

Another question, can someone with 2008 trailer check to see if the flat 5 prong that attaches to your adapter is only about 4 feet long and has (female?) end at the swing away junction on the trailer. So really it is a flat 5 prong with male on one end and female on the other and about 48inches in length. I wanted to replace this but Jerry at Boatmate said they don't come from the factory like that. Can't order it through Boatmate. I have not found one on line like it either. Just found 2ft and 5ft.

The part numbers on the ends read 53108b1 and 53108c1.

Any info would be great!

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Originally Posted by KurtL

So, still a bit cold up here to get out, but needed to pull the boat out to summerize it. Trailer lights worked fine, pulled her out of the garage and I can't back up.

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I'm having the same problem in reverse. Didn't seem to notice it last year. Only difference on my system is that some of my lights aren't working.

Thanks to an explanation from mmandley on how the hydraulic system has a solenoid that kicks in, in reverse, I think I solved my issue.

Turns out that my lights issue was a bad ground, which would affect reverse on the trailer. Will know if it's fixed next time I hook up the trailer. But, just in case, I built a "lockout pin" if this doesn't fix the issue.

Thanks mmandley.

If anyone wants a lockout pin in case ur solenoid malfunctions here they are.. a coin would also work... also iu need any ufp parts for your a60 actuators this place is great....

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A...uator-backing/

Guys thanks for the guidance, just need a little more!

So checked fuses. Looks like all are ok. Anyone know if for 2004 silverado I need to look anywhere other than the hood fuse panel.

MMandley, you mentioned something about using a jump to test solenoid. How would you do that? I need details, I'm a complete electrical illiterate:confused:!


The boatmate rep e-mailed me this statement below: So how do you do this?

"You need to make sure that you’re getting 12 volts and a good ground to the solenoid (via the blue wire) when you put the vehicle in reverse. It is very unlikely that the solenoid went bad…..it is a very reliable part. We have been using that system since around 1995 and I might sell 3 or 4 solenoids a year (and we build 5000 trailer a year)."



Thanks

have you tried on a different vehicle?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KurtL

Guys thanks for the guidance, just need a little more!

So checked fuses. Looks like all are ok. Anyone know if for 2004 silverado I need to look anywhere other than the hood fuse panel.

MMandley, you mentioned something about using a jump to test solenoid. How would you do that? I need details, I'm a complete electrical illiterate:confused:!


The boatmate rep e-mailed me this statement below: So how do you do this?

"You need to make sure that you’re getting 12 volts and a good ground to the solenoid (via the blue wire) when you put the vehicle in reverse. It is very unlikely that the solenoid went bad…..it is a very reliable part. We have been using that system since around 1995 and I might sell 3 or 4 solenoids a year (and we build 5000 trailer a year)."



Thanks

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You got a Volt meter or a test light?

To check this first i need to know if your using a 5 pin connector on the truck or what type of connection you got there.

Test light or volt meter will work. A known good ground is normaly any metel surface, hitch bolt, hitch its self something. You test this by tuning on the parking lights as you know they work on the trailer and check with your light or volt meter for the 12 volts.

Once you find that then put your truck in reverse. You should be able to do this with the truck turned off and the key in the run position so your back up lights come one. Now check your truck for that same voltage on the 5 pin if you have it.

If you dont get anything then this is prolly your problem. You can check your fuse panel in the truck and under the hood looking for something saying trailer hookup, towing lights, something like that.

If you have voltage on the reverse now you can test your trailer. On the trailer wire harness you should have a Blue outside wire on the harness. You can strip the insulation away and test this pluged into the truck.

Lastly is you cant get anything to test out and your ready to throw in the towel, you can jump the trailer reverse circuit by splicing the Blue wire into the Brown wire on the harness. This is a default color < brown > for all standard American bassed vechicles as the Parking light circuit. Now when you turn on the parking lights it will activate the back up circuit on the trailer and it should work. This is how i bypassed mine in a pinch last summer at the camp site when my harness got damaged.

Lastly if none of this is working call me 503-989-9921 i will help you out lol.

here is a diagram of the wiring for the trailer, you would just add the blue line for the solenoid

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ingdiagram.jpg

here is one with the blue wire(the blue wire would just go to the solenoid though, not back to the brakes)

http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/gr...043_aa_600.jpg

Could you find one with a little more detail?

Yeah, whats the black A frame looking thing?

:)

I just went through this scenario. My 07 selenoid went out,not allowing me to back up with out using my reverse lock out pin.I talked to 2 dealer mechanics and its pretty simple to test for. Hook up trailer to plug and test power at plug for all working. Check all lights work. Determine which one is reverse.mine is blue wire right to selenoid behind coupler. chech power to this point. When activating either while plugged in or just jumping from a 12volt source you should hear seleniod pop/click when activating if not likely this is the problem.

My dealer told me how to fix and they brought the part in for me and its not too hard to fix /replace. I have the breakaway tongue which the coupler assembly is inside. You have to remove the 2 pins with c clips ,remove pins ,disconnect break line ,mine attached via a flexible hose and simple coupler and cut blue power wire to selenoid then whole assembly slides out allowing you real access to selenoid.. Replace selenoid , reassemble back together, splice power wire and then refill and BLEED brakes.
All this is not too hard and is in the trailer manual ,hardest part i had was to bleed brakes but dealer told me how they do it manually using a comealong wrapped around the trailer and the hitch assembly,working the fluid through the brake lines etc.

Most people will help or at least explain this to you if you ask. They wanted 2-3 hrs and parts 70.00 parts to fix this so i did it myself. BTW dealer rates are 115.oo per hr here . I'm Cheap and would rather spend this on boat gas so this is why i did this myself.
Hope this helps . Sounds just like what i went through. GOOD LUCK.

Mike M, boombox and Mikey,

Thanks for the tips. The truck wiring is ok, power in reverse was positive. I tested it with this "trailer wiring buddy" from ES products. Kinda cool lets you check the 7 pin wiring from the comfort of you front seat.

Got the 12v test light tonight will check trailer tomorrow. I now think it is the trailer connector. But will bypass and check the solenoid first. Going to be a pain to splice in all 9 wires to the new flat 5.

Thanks again for all the help!

You got a 7pin connector on the truck? Convert the trailer over, thats what i did last summer after the 5 pin for damaged.

So it was the blue wire connection. Local trailer guy looked at it and said the problem was the connection(see pic) Apparently these corrode all the time. You guys were right on the money with the blue wire. Cheap fix! Just butt two blues and shrink tape it and good to go!

Now if you all can tell me how to stop the rain and bring on the sun we'll be in business! Come on Summer!

my boat came with a 7-pin. or at least thats what was on it when i bought it. I have never even seen a 5 pin before, just the 4 and 7. My g/fs dad had a 1500 dodge with the 7 pin added aftermarket and he tried to back my boat into the driveway with it and it was locking up. I told him to stop cause the reverse lights on the trailer werent on and he said , "trailers dont have reverse lights" lol. some people

Yeah that blue wire is the wire to the selenoid,i had mentioned. I was able to check for powere on both sides of the Butt connection which was good but the selenoid would not actuate,/ click/pop so yeah i had to replace. The one dealer told me this is really not that uncommon.Surprised others have not run into this,yet. Hopefully thats it for fixes this season as i'm hoping to FINALLY get out for the first time this season ,this Sunday. Our weather ,has not been cooperating at all this year, Also that God for my Drysuit as i expect the water to be COLD.

@ RD i bet when they installed the 7 pin on your pops truck it was the same time they installed the 7 pin for his trailer, so they just matched them up. I was able to use the little wire diagram on my & pin connector on the truck to match the boat trailer.

KurtL the only way i know to fix your rain issue is move to where the rain doesnt like to be, AZ or NV but then again i understand if they dont fix the water issue there wont be drinking water in the next 10 years in those 2 states.

It seems like anyone who has to back up an incline runs into this issue. My dealer looked at me funny when I said the reverse solenoid wasn't working right - he said none of them do. Told me to put in the little metal lockout disc and problem's solved... BUT the problem is when you stop going down a hill, need to back up, and the brakes are already engaged... disc doesn't fit and requires quite the gyrations with chocks (feel like I'm doing several chinese fire drills) to get things going.

I had some wire and went through connecting each prong on the vehicle to the running lights to see which one was which. I've got the 7 flat on the vehicle, and then a 7-5 adapter to connect to the trailer lights. Also found this diagram.
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/gr...043_tt_500.jpg

Neither the brake or reverse light prongs are powered when I'm in reverse. It doesn't help that when I ask other people about the issue - they think I'm talking about electric trailer brakes and go into a whole spiel about them.... It sounds like basically you just want the "purple" backup lights wire on the vehicle to connect to the blue trailer brake wire?? So when I'm in reverse, the blue wire on the trailer is powered. Is this right? OR should the blue wire on the vehicle control this?

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Originally Posted by schuylski

It seems like anyone who has to back up an incline runs into this issue. My dealer looked at me funny when I said the reverse solenoid wasn't working right - he said none of them do. Told me to put in the little metal lockout disc and problem's solved... BUT the problem is when you stop going down a hill, need to back up, and the brakes are already engaged... disc doesn't fit and requires quite the gyrations with chocks (feel like I'm doing several chinese fire drills) to get things going.

I had some wire and went through connecting each prong on the vehicle to the running lights to see which one was which. I've got the 7 flat on the vehicle, and then a 7-5 adapter to connect to the trailer lights. Also found this diagram.
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/gr...043_tt_500.jpg

Neither the brake or reverse light prongs are powered when I'm in reverse. It doesn't help that when I ask other people about the issue - they think I'm talking about electric trailer brakes and go into a whole spiel about them.... It sounds like basically you just want the "purple" backup lights wire on the vehicle to connect to the blue trailer brake wire?? So when I'm in reverse, the blue wire on the trailer is powered. Is this right? OR should the blue wire on the vehicle control this?

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The middle pin should control your trailer brake solenoid. It varies in color on different vehicles I would guess but on your trailer side of the connector you need to make sure that the wire that controls the solenoid (blue one is what everyone is saying) is wired to the middle pin on the connector. The trailer brake wire is for electric trailer brakes which we do not have. When the solenoid wire on of trailers sees 12v from the reverse lights it activates and will prevent the brakes from locking up in reverse. So on your diagram the purple reverse light wire needs to connect to the blue solenoid wire on your trailer and they should both go thru the middle pin.

RD is correct, what your really looking for is 12V hot all the time when the trailer is plugged in. The forward mostion of the breakes will always work as this is a pressure system and the 12V all the time will keep the solinoid activated and allow you to back up.

It doesnt have to be switched when you put the truck in reverse. If you really want that function you will need to tap directly into the back up lights of the truck.

Open drivers door and look at the side of dash. There are additional fuses there and on my old boat before I got my 2010 Moomba it blew a fuse a week! Mine was a brake light fuse for trailer hitch but might check inside that panel too!

Thanks guys- this weekend I'll check it out

I'm glad I saw this post. Just had this issue this past weekend. Backed the trailer up the street a ways to make room to turn into my driveway, backed up just fine. Then, went to start backing into my actual driveway (both are uphill slightly) and the damn thing wouldn't move easily. Tried it last night again to make sure it wasn't a fluke, and sure enough, the brakes go right on. I was curious the best way to trouble shoot this, so, now I know!!

I'm hopeful it's just one of those wire splice connectors, and not the solenoid.

From what I've read the solenoids are pretty rock solid.... easy way to check or deactivate brakes-

Disconnect plug and line up the 5 flat trailer connector so that the top "blue" trailer wire will plug in to the 2nd pin from the bottom on the vehicle connector (where brown trailer wire usually goes) It has to be on a weird angle, almost 45 degrees, and is tricky to jam in there but you can do it - wish i had a picture. Then turn on your headlights and you now have powered the solenoid and you should be able to back up. If that doesn't work - then there may be issues with the solenoid.

Unfortunately, it looks like my problem is a bad solenoid. I got good 12v power and ground to the solenoid, and nothing. So, looks like I'll be bleeding brakes here in a week or so!

Thanks for all your help guys!! Especially the Pacific Trailers website. Cheapest spot for those solenoids that I've found!!