System Upgrade!

Ok so, I don't know why but, today I decided to pull the trigger on upgrading the stereo. I was looking for beats on a budget so that lead me to ebay where I picked up a Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker ZXM450.2, and a 12" Kicker CompVT. I've never had any Kicker products before except for the tower speakers that came on my boat but I have always heard good things and the reveiws on these were pretty good as well. The price wasn't too bad either. I imagine I'll start installing this stuff next weekend. I'll be looking to the boards for some construction ideas, tips, and pointers for the box and amp rack.

Going to be a busy weekend...New System...New prop....SeaDek should be in sometime this week and so should the new Head Unit the dealer sent me (Kenwood KMR440U). This should keep me busy and satisfied for a while...at least that's what I told wifey...heh ;)

Did I read a post here correctly that said when wiring the 6 cabin speakers on a 5 channel amp run the 2 bow speakers on the front 2 channels and then run the reamining four on the rear 2 channels. Any specific way (Parallel/Series)? What ohm load is that going to present? The sub will be on the subwoofer channel...obviously.

2 bow speakers on the front two
4 cabin speakers on two channels (parallel the two left together and the two right) gives you a 2 ohm load
sub on remaining channel

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Originally Posted by 11 Outback V

2 bow speakers on the front two
4 cabin speakers on two channels (parallel the two left together and the two right) gives you a 2 ohm load
sub on remaining channel

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This is exactly how I have my 700.5 wired.

Which comp did you get? Single or DVC? With the class D channel on the ZX700.5 @ 4ohms it's roughly 200 watts I believe, whereas with a DVC at 2ohms sub it's roughly 400 watts. Either way they are great amps, real workhorses for the money. I "recycled" my '07 ZX700.5 into my nephews Honda to drive his stereo system we installed and it's still going strong.

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Originally Posted by Razzman

Which comp did you get? Single or DVC? With the class D channel on the ZX700.5 @ 4ohms it's roughly 200 watts I believe, whereas with a DVC at 2ohms sub it's roughly 400 watts. Either way they are great amps, real workhorses for the money. I "recycled" my '07 ZX700.5 into my nephews Honda to drive his stereo system we installed and it's still going strong.

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It's a single 2 ohm voice Coil so it should perform pretty well with the 420W @ 2 ohms dedicated to the sub channel.

The 700.5 and the 450.2 are solid amps. I used them for my stereo on my first summer as my first upgraded system. i was running the cabins and a 10 sub with the 700 and KMT6s on the tower with the 450 and i cranked them a lot. Only time i ever had them go into Protect was for 5 minutes on a 107 degree day and the cubby was full of backpacks lol.

Shut it off for 5 minutes and never an issue again.

Those are solid amps. I only replaced them because i needed more power flat out. I sold them both to members here and i haven't herd any complaints about there performance.

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Originally Posted by mmandley

The 700.5 and the 450.2 are solid amps. I used them for my stereo on my first summer as my first upgraded system. i was running the cabins and a 10 sub with the 700 and KMT6s on the tower with the 450 and i cranked them a lot. Only time i ever had them go into Protect was for 5 minutes on a 107 degree day and the cubby was full of backpacks lol.

Shut it off for 5 minutes and never an issue again.

Those are solid amps. I only replaced them because i needed more power flat out. I sold them both to members here and i haven't herd any complaints about there performance.

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That is exactly the setup I'm going to have. Was the volume on the KMT's decent at ropes length. When I rode last weekend I could barely hear it while I was riding. Possibly weren't up loud enough. They are currently being pushed by a Kenwood KAC 929 = GARBAGE.

Is there a way to control only the volume of the tower's so they aren't blaring when we are in the boat but want to rock out the other speakers. But I need it to also allows us to be able to crank 'em up at will without changing the volume of the other speakers...say for boarding for eaxmple? What are you all using? Any suggestions?

E4 the KMTs are a power hungry speaker pod. They really want that power off the 450.2 and yes you can hear them pretty well at wakeboard distance. Surprising well for non HLCDs. You do have to be careful on the cross over frequency as they don't like Bass at all. The woofer will over exert and be damaged pretty easily.

I think the popular choice is the WS420 i think its called.

I use a separate volume control for the tower itself so i can kill the tower when my rider falls but keep the boat cranked up while coming back to get them. Then i hit the mute on my stereo still they are back on the water.

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Originally Posted by mmandley

E4 the KMTs are a power hungry speaker pod. They really want that power off the 450.2 and yes you can hear them pretty well at wakeboard distance. Surprising well for non HLCDs. You do have to be careful on the cross over frequency as they don't like Bass at all. The woofer will over exert and be damaged pretty easily.

I think the popular choice is the WS420 i think its called.

I use a separate volume control for the tower itself so i can kill the tower when my rider falls but keep the boat cranked up while coming back to get them. Then i hit the mute on my stereo still they are back on the water.

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Thanks man!

Another positive for the Kicker amps here. Been running three of them for the last few years with no complaints at all. Just swapped out/upgraded my tower amp for another Kicker.

750.1 - powering 12" Polk Sub
350.4 - powering 4 Polk DB651 cabin speakers
450.2 - powering 2 double cans filled Polk MM651's for the tower

When installing the Box for the sub, is it ok to just screw it into the floor? I was going to use L brackets and possibly elevate the box on "pedestals" to allow for drainage. either way it will require screwing it to the floor.

I'd suggest screwing into the floor is safe given the screws are not super long and you know there's nothing underneath (steering cable, gas line, etc) that you could accidentally hit.

I have my amp board secured using some galvanized L brackets - using 3/4" stainless screws going right into the floor. Not a problem. Ideally you can mount the brackets in tight enough so they barely stick out (if at all), making them less visible, buried into the carpet more when tightened down, and minimize the possibility of scraping a toe on one.

Sorry i havnt got you the pics of mine yet E4. I just have been so busy at the house this week. I havnt been getting home till 9 or 10 at night and im beat.

My sub box sits in front of the hump and its actually bolted to the hump.

Yes you can screw into the floor but i would look in the V drive and see where the hoses and cables are at going to the divers area. Measure the width and then use a straight line to see where that channel is and avoid it.

No worries...shouldn't be any problem getting this stuff installled. I may howeever have someone else do it. I know I can do it but after tallying up everything I would need to buy it exceeds or matches the quote I was given to install everything. So it may just be better for me with all this other stuff I have going on right now to have the shop do it. I just want it to be perfect...

Sub and ZXRC module came today. Amps should arrive tomorrow (ZXM450.2) and Friday (ZXM700.5).