So, have we ever come to a definitive answer, or at least consensus, on the question of having the fuel tank full or empty at the end of the season?
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So, have we ever come to a definitive answer, or at least consensus, on the question of having the fuel tank full or empty at the end of the season?
Fill 'er up, add some Stabil.
fill it because even with no fuel you can get condensation in the tank and it will effect the system next year
Was there ever anything other than a concensus?
Thought it was a given that the tank should be full and stabilizer added and the engine run so the stabilizer circulates thru the fuel line. The owners manual states this, only exception being if the fuel contains alcohol.
With some toys (i.e. dirt bikes) complete fuel drainage is as easy as a turn of a screw. But with a boat, how would you ever completely drain the fuel?
Research I did years back suggested it's the interaction with air that causes the fuel to go stale, so if you top it off that won't happen and in fact that theory further suggests stabilizer is not required. But it's cheap, so might as well.
PS (After years of draining the fuel on my bikes, I've reversed course after seeing the inside of the float bowl on one of them. Full of fuel from now on).
I always add Stabil and fill it up. Have never had an issue come spring.
fill up to the brim and add stabil.. never had an issue yet in any machine..
stabil and fill it, reminds me that I need to go do mine--lack of use
ditto, fill and add stabil
What does the owner's manual say? It says to fill it up and add stabilizer, and that is what I do.
One more for fill and add stabilizer.
Plus right now gas is around $3 a gallon here. Next June who knows where it will be! ;)
We have had the same problem here. Lack of use. In July it rained every weekend and towards the fall there is usually an all weekend long swim meet somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by moombadaze
Ms. LS is going to think we don't like her anymore! :)
Another vote for "top it off and sta-bil".
In fact will be doing so next weekend. Trying to get out this thursday for the last run of the year :(
Most everyone wrote "fill it up and add Stabil" but to be technically correct, you should add Stabil, THEN fill it up, THEN run the engine. This will ensure that the Stabil is thoroughly mixed with the fuel and that the fuel that will sit in the fuel system over the winter, be it the carb or the fuel injectors, will have Stabil in it and will not gum up.
Good clarification. I add the stabil to the system before the last run of the season, then top off the tank for winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by cab13367
I did say that backwards as I add the stabil at the house and then go get gas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed G
How I wish there wasn't an end to the season . . . .
The kiddos gymnastics season gets cranking up soon and we just don't make it out to the lake enough to justify the risk of not having the boat winterized and put away for a few (hopefully) short months.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfeman131
You know you can come south anytime and we will can go out--but no comments on the pond of a lake we have :rolleyes:
Ditto. I was going to say fill 'er up and keep using her.
Sea Foam is the BOMB, in a good way. Just put it in all my cars and boats cause the cars were getting close to tune-up time and WOW they are running smooth now. I'm probably running through the last tank of gas so it's 93 octane and sea foam. I'll fill, top off with 93 and the dealer throws in stabil as part of the winterization. Never had a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by flatH20
I tried other fuel treaments and sold on SeaFoam now. Not sure how it handles fuel seperation, but I'll run it through the first and last tank of the season and use stabil while it sits over the winter.
Leave er close to empty as I've done the past eight years. Run a gallon of stabil gas through and call it good. In the spring you pump out the remaining gas, water and crud and start with fresh gas. Otherwise, what do you do with a full tank of degraded crapped up ethanol based gas that still has water in it? I know what some people do and some of those people have discussed the consequences.
I was looking thru the Coast Guard Aux website and found this under that whats new. Thought i would pass it along.
http://dev02.cgaux.org/members/whats_new/announce.php
Tips for boat winterizing with ethanol fuel: Suggestions from Auxiliary Partner, Soundings Magazine
Boaters are starting to winterize their boats. Considering the problems that ethanol-blended gasoline can cause, proper preparation of the fuel system and engine is a critical step in preparing a boat for winter storage. Gasoline with 10 percent ethanol (E10) has led to disintegration of fiberglass fuel tanks, the gumming up of fuel lines, and piston and valve failure. Two properties of ethanol cause problems in boat fuel systems. First, ethanol absorbs moisture - so it can cause water to collect in your fuel tank and fuel system. Second, ethanol is a solvent. It can loosen debris in the tank or fuel lines and allow it to reach the engine. Engine manufacturer representatives recommend using a quality fuel stabilizer and conditioner. The stabilizer should be added to the fuel tank before the seasonal layup and the engine should be run long enough to ensure that the stabilized fuel runs through the entire system.
Empty or full? Opinions vary about whether tanks should be left empty, or about 95 percent full during winter storage. According to some experts, the benefit of leaving tanks empty is, that if there's no ethanol in the tank it can't absorb water and can't loosen deposits in the tank. According to other experts, the benefit of leaving tanks filled with treated fuel is that there's less likelihood of moisture forming in the tank from condensation and a topped-off tank minimizes the explosive fumes that can remain in an empty tank. The National Fire Protection Association calls for tanks to be topped off to minimize explosive vapors. Draining the tank may be an option for boat owners with small fuel tanks but for owners of larger boats, topping it off makes more sense.
The rest of the fuel system also needs attention. Drain and replace the fuel/water separator and drain any fuel filters to the engine. You also should inspect all fuel hoses, and fittings. To determine the effect ethanol may have had on your fuel system, when changing the fuel/water separator, pour some of the gasoline into a clear jar and check the level of water and debris. If you see black specks in the fuel, you're looking at a potential ethanol problem. The black specks are typically pieces of rubber fuel line that has begun to deteriorate internally. If you find them, replace the affected fuel line with a new ethanol-resistant line.
[Posted: Oct 17, 2010. Source: Kelly Townsend, DVC-BL]
Yes sea foam is great... I use it instead of sta-bil. while it treats the gas it is also cleaning your motor....Quote:
Originally Posted by flatH20
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
I am aware of many outboard guys who swear by the stuff for removing carbon deposits and improving performance on 2 stroke outboards. I haven't tried it for anything though.