My 12 mojo is steady trickling water from the dripless shaft seal. What’s the job like to fix? under 300 hours on the boat. Seems quick to go bad. Is there a way it could just need cleaned? Thanks.
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My 12 mojo is steady trickling water from the dripless shaft seal. What’s the job like to fix? under 300 hours on the boat. Seems quick to go bad. Is there a way it could just need cleaned? Thanks.
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Where is the cooling line coming from? Is the motor aligned to the shaft? do you have a bent shaft? There is a seal kit you can buy, remove the shaft v drive coupler , loosen the dripless clamp so you can remove the seal holder , replace seal in seal holder, slide back on lubricated shaft using tool or taping and threads on shaft reassemble.
http://skidim.blogspot.com/2008/10/o...tallation.html
Give Tim a call at Glide Bearings. He's a super nice guy that will answer all your questions. Or, you can e-mail him at:
[email protected]
Website: http://www.glidebearings.com/marine.php
Hey Pat, are they the originators of the oj dripless? Or a spin off? Or other?
Thanks. I just ordered a new dripless seal from my dealer. Hoping to swap it on my lift once it comes in.
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I did this on my 13 mojo 2 weeks ago. Hardest part was getting the shaft coupler off. I strongly recommend purchasing a puller given its location. $100 well spent from this guy:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcross25
https://www.skiboatpartsonline.com/index.php
I called the owner Ron Tanis in a panic to make sure he could ship ASAP so I’d have it the following weekend. Good dude, walked me through the process. He’s got several good YouTube videos on coupler removal as well as RE-aligning the engine afterwords.
I had to raise the motor substantially to get the coupler to line up with the bolt pattern of my V-drive.
Thanks for that. My buddy just did his wakesetter and has the tool. He modified his to fit so hopefully it goes smooth.
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You bet. May go without saying if you and your buddy are more mechanically inclined than myself but I had to raise the back of my motor a bit before going through the process of aligning with the v-drive in order to center my prop shaft in the shaft log. Only way to do this is to check the shaft clearance before installing the seal kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcross25
Good luck, this was a full day job for me but sure beat waiting on a dealer at the onset of the summer season.
Seal on my Mojo is pouring water. I pulled the dripless seal off. The rubber inside the brass is worn causing the water to come out. My question, in all the images I have seen, there is always a collar that secures to the shaft, and that collar rests against the brass on the seal. Mine is just the brass piece with a barb fitting on it. Am I missing something?
Also, is there a bushing or anything inside the shaft log?
There’s nothing inside the shaft log. The lip seal inside the brass collar is what seals the water out and the barb provides water to the seal to keep it cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by gcnettl
I couldn’t find any replacement parts for my seal. I purchased a GLIDE dripless seal from skidim, replaced the motor mount bushings, aligned the motor to the shaft, all is well. I suggest alignment be a yearly aintenance item and replace the bushings every other year or something.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6b91c506a7.jpg
This is what I got from Moomba. Came with no instructions. My guess is the white plastic piece goes where it is pictured the pulls off after? The the aluminum sleeve in the back goes over shaft to protect seal when installing then pulled off after to finish install of coupler? Just want to make sure I have it right before tearing into it. Thanks.
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That looks like the OE seal that I had.
The GLIDE seal had a plastic shaft like your aluminum one. It was installed in the seal, and when you installed the seal onto the boat shaft, the boat shaft pushed the plastic/aluminum shafT out. It was not a protective sleeve that installed over the shaft.
I can’t read all of what the writing is on the white piece. But I think it’s just for protection during shipping and handling. I sprayed silicone lubricant on my seal when installed so it slid easy. I would remove the white plastic. Install the aluminum piece into the seal, inserting the taper side first from the bottom of the seal. Then install the seal onto the prop shaft, and the prop shaft will push the aluminum tool out as you slide it down.
Correct on the alum sleeve, just a protector for your tapered threads. My instructions called for tape over the threads of the kit was purchased without the sleeve. Not 100% on the white thing but I would assume it’s just a protector for your lip seals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcross25
Here’s a comparison to the glide for everyone’s reference:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5475fbbb41.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...662c399cd1.jpg
I’ll post some pics later this eve when I get to the boat. Pulled the coupler bolts and have the seal loose. As said above the puller was to big to fit. Took some measurement and had my buddy make one at his shop to fit under the tranny.
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Well that didn’t work. Tool still a hair to big. Once I get the boat back to the house I’ll get some pics on here. Need the full line of tools and the boat in the trailer instead of lift to get it done
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Is it a clearance issue with the Transmission or with the hull? I had to crank my motor mount up quite a bit to get the clearance I needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcross25
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With the trans. I didn’t want to go into it that far since the boat is on the lift at the lake. I think if I make the tool a little smaller I can do it with out lift motor. But the dealer I take my boat to to winterize said $200 bucks to do it so I may just do that and not mess with it. I was sore the next day being hunched over the trans. If there was room and I had all of my tools it may have been a different story.Quote:
Originally Posted by c h r i s
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Man, unless you really enjoy that chit, at $200 I’d have the dealer do it. ONLY reason I attempted it was I didn’t want to wait for the dealer to get to it. I have $100 into the tool itself (pic) plus buying all the other crap I didn’t have (large wrenches and sockets).Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcross25
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f2bb14013.png
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I had my dealer install and it was a 2 hour job. I am not that handy and would have taken all day. My time is worth something and piece of mind getting it done right the first time. They said that this is a common failure over time and although I only have 150 hours on my 2008 LSV it needed replacing.
Lol. I will be taking it to the dealer. it’s not even worth me touching it for the price plus it will take me a little longer anyway and I still will need to buy a few tools to make the job easier if I would do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by c h r i s
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