How To: Replace your trailer axle seal
How To: Replace your trailer seal on your axle
After experiencing this dilemma back in April of this year and seeing that there are a couple of others out there (and more that potentially will experience this very same problem in the future), it was pointed out that I should write up a sticky and provide the steps. These steps will help you change a leaking seal and I am providing the pictures I took that will help those who are visual learners like myself.
I meant to do this back in May but life got in the way. Credit to ninedriver for having the issue and re-inspiring me and to kaneboats to helping to add the sticky! Ok enough of that, let’s get to it!
Other thread I had started about replacing my seal: https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....al-replacement
Alternative Part#: National Part #470460, OD (outer diameter of seal is 2.56”) This seal was $9.99 from Advanced Auto, here’s there link: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...460&showTitle=
The Trailer Buddy manual says if you are replacing a seal without Hypalon then apply a thin film of Permatex High-Temp RTV silicon gasket maker on the seal outside diameter and hub bore prior to installation (I did not but I hadn’t read my manual either and in hindsight should have). I’ve had no problems though. The seals from the factory have Hypalon coating on the outside diameter.
First off, here is a diagram of the hub and spindle assemblies:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse27e261c.jpg
Now onto the steps:
1. Remove your wheel
2. Now you need to remove your calipers. You have to remove the caliper “clip” first as shown here with the red arrows (I don’t know the official name of this thing so bear with me).
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...pscd03c6b7.jpg
3. Take a screwdriver and just pull out the clip in both holes remembering how it is set in place:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse4f08e29.jpg
4. On the back of the caliper are two black caps that you'll need to remove that reveal hex bolts. You will need a #7 metric hex wrench to remove these hex bolts. (circled in RED, one cap has already been removed). Also next to these hex bolts are two other bolts you'll need a wrench to remove (I don't recall what size the wrench socket was, maybe 1/2"; circled in GREEN)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps4e79e248.jpg
Cont'd because of the darn picture max limit
How To: Replace your trailer axle seal
Note if you just take off the two bolts circled in with the green box you can take the whole caliper off without having to worry about the spring or the bolts circled in red
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How To: Replace your trailer axle seal
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rdlangston13
Note if you just take off the two bolts circled in with the green box you can take the whole caliper off without having to worry about the spring or the bolts circled in red
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Ha! Good to know for future reference David!! Thank you
How To: Replace your trailer axle seal
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ninedriver
Awesome write up, congrats on the sticky, and thanks for mention!
A couple follow up questions:
When reapplying the grease, how much do you put in? In addition to packing the bearings, do you fill the void around the spindle between the bearings and fill the vault cap? Can you put in too much grease?
Also, how tight should you make the spindle nut when putting everything back together?
Thanks again and great job!
Just pack it in there good. Fill it all. I didn't tighten the spindle nut much, just snug, as that is what it was when I removed it and I believe is the way it should be. I almost used a tube repacking all 4 hubs.
How To: Replace your trailer axle seal
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Cigars n scotch
Just pack it in there good. Fill it all. I didn't tighten the spindle nut much, just snug, as that is what it was when I removed it and I believe is the way it should be. I almost used a tube repacking all 4 hubs.
When tightening the spindle nut I install a tire to make it easier to turn. I spin the wheel and crack the nut tight with channel lock pliers and the back it off half a turn. I repeat this 3 or 4 times and then I tighten
It down, then back it off about a quarter to one third turn. You don't want it all the way tight because then there is no room for heat expansion. Also just pack everything with as much grease as possible. I always fill the hub before I slide it on the spindle to ensure there is grease all in there and then fill that vault cap up about 3/4 full
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