Replacing Shaft Packing?

Hey guys, my shaft started to leak something fierce, filling up and engaging the auto bilge every 8 minutes... we tried tightening the packing nut and lock nut, and we got it to stop dripping.

Running to boat over to the dock (5 minutes most) and it was dripping worse then before and didn't slow down even after stopping the boat.

I am looking at replacing the packing in the nut, but I am not to tech savvy and I have no real access to these boards up at the lake.

Should i get this handled professionally, or is it really ridiculously simple and a waste of my money to get a marina to do it?

Does anyone have photos of the procedure and a view from the rear of the nut?

I know this has been covered before, but I really need it laid out in some detail if I am going to attempt it up at the lake.

Here is a shot of the shaft, you can see how much it has loosened off the lock nut.

Spyder..
I took on that project yesterday... Pretty simple.. but challenging.. HA.. Getting in to the area is hardest part...

Remove the Front/bigger nut.. You'll need some type of Pick to reach back inside the nut to get the old packing out.. I had a pigtail barbecue turner. it kinda worked.. This is easier on a Direct Drive as you can see what you are doing!

Once you get the old pieces out, you cut your pieces in lengths just shy of the diameter of the shaft... then roll them back in.. I upgraded to the Gore Tex packing.. it is more difficult to push in.. I still need to go back in and mess with mine more before going out.

www.SkiDim.com or www.elberts.com are great places for parts. Both are very accessible on the phone and can provide tech service.

Moomba's use 1/4" packing rope. I'd probably go with the waxed instead of gore tex.

Once you pack 2-3 pieces back in, you'll tighten the big nut down and then back tighten the lock nut to it. You'll probably have to tighten a time or two after running to get it adjusted where it does not drip right...

PM or email if you have further questions.
BW

I just order the gore-tex one, but I don't think it will make it to Canada before this upcoming long weekend, so I may be forced to bring it in to a shop :/

I would of liked to try this project on :/

Not sure who you ordered from, but Call SkiDim tomorrow and see if they can ship you some waxed out same day with global priority. I placed my order online with them and they called 1 hr later to say if I was not in a hurry that US Mail would be much cheaper than UPS so they saved me $5! Great folks.

I ordered from Skidim, I'll see what I can do tomorrow.

Replacing the shaft packing is a relatively easy task you should be able to do yourself. I found step by step instructions on this board that worked great. Good luck.

Here are the instructions that were sent to me by Brian Raymond. This is one of the few thing I have not had to do yet.

Replacing and Adjusting the Shaft Packing.
- Replace the shaft packing. Be sure to install two or three pieces.
- Loosen the jam nut on the shaft-packing gland.
- Back the gland nut off the packing gland assembly.
- Dig out all the old packing material.
- For a one inch shaft, cut two to three pieces of 1/4"dia. packing material strips so they are 4 1/8". Place one of the packing strips into the packing nut. The end should butt together. Place another piece in the packing nut, this time orienting the seam 180 degrees from the seam of the first piece.
- Slide the packing nut up the shaft.
- Slide the shaft through the Packing gland assembly and into the strut.
- Screw the packing nut onto the packing gland assembly. Tighten it up as much as possible by hand. Then using a wrench, turn the nut a 1/2 a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. Then turn the nut a 1/2 a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. Then turn the nut a ½ a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. This will pack the packing fairly tight.
- Back the packing nut off the assembly again. Then thread it back on. Tighten it only as tight as you can get it using your hands. This should be almost the perfect tightness for the packing gland so that it does not leak, yet not too tight so that the packing burns up.
- Tighten the Lock Nut up to the Packing Gland Nut.

If you want to add the third piece of packing, do so when you back the nut off after you packed the packing. Then tighten the nut only as tight as you can get it using your hands. This should be almost the perfect tightness for the packing gland so that it does not leak, yet not too tight so that the packing burns up.

3/16” PACKING FOR V DRIVE
¼” PACKING FOR DIRECT DRIVE

Ideally, you want 1 drop of water every 30-45 seconds when the boat is in gear at idle. (Be sure the boat is in the water)

Jesse,
Thanks for the info.. That explains why the 1/4" was such a tough fit for me! I'll order some 3/16" now. OOPS.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JesseC

3/16” PACKING FOR V DRIVE
¼” PACKING FOR DIRECT DRIVE

---

This is the first reference I have heard of this, are you sure? I thought 3/16's were just for correct crafts.