[QUOTE=
The Mondo, Craz & Mojo may not have the freeboard or storage but you can't deny they aren't sexy AF.
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This is definatley a big draw for us!
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[QUOTE=
The Mondo, Craz & Mojo may not have the freeboard or storage but you can't deny they aren't sexy AF.
Sent from my Note9 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
This is definatley a big draw for us!
We were just mainly seeing what it looked at those speeds while making sure everything was functioning as it should. I'll for sure be messing around in all sorts of speeds once the break-in is over. Just wanted to make sure things were functioning and I'll do all the real testing later on. I haven't even calibrated my paddle wheel against a GPS app so who knows what that speed really was lol. Most of the video was taken running down the river current with a stiff wind pushing at our backs so that might have had some influence.Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyMan
Yup the switches are now metal (I think :D.... or look real close to it). It does help make it feel and look a bit nicer inside giving it a little pop like you said. Nothing wrong with the 18's either though!
Got a chance to swing by my parents house and check out the boat. Had some water in there from heavy rains. Maybe I didn’t have the anti pooling pole high enough?
Anyways while there I looked close at the switches and they’re still plastic as you can see the parting line from the plastic mold if you look at them very closely. Overall they look nice even if plastic.
http://i.imgur.com/K7cZ9GF.jpg
Pull the hangtyte way tighter and make pole taller. Height should look like this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b6d9de2060.jpg
I believe the switches are metal, and from 2018 Supras.
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Yea that's what I ended up doing and mine looks like yours now. Hopefully that keeps the water out until I at least get a metal carport. Really don't want it to start smelling nasty right from the start. I left the cover off for a while today and went inside every compartment to remove any water. Most of it was in the bow. When I took delivery we got caught in a heavy rainstorm and I didn't set the hang tyte high enough nor adjust the pole. I was in a rush to beat the rain. Then drove it to my parents to drop it off and it's been there since. Swung by today to check on it and I'm glad I did because under the port side bow cushion it had about 1/2" of water in it. Does your boat have two poles? It kind of looks like it. Mine has one that snaps into the cover in the front and then the hang tyte for the rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt0520
How it looks now...
http://i.imgur.com/4VOvJ2p.jpg
Still haven't had enough sun to really appreciate the ultra blue flake but man does it look sweet once the sun starts to hit it!!!
http://i.imgur.com/ZuYfhFe.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WUPUmQ4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sSy7a7P.jpg
Hey guys quick question. I ordered my Max with dual batteries and I’ve never had a boat with more than a single battery. Do I run the boat using #1 battery and then switch to #2 if I’m going to be sitting in a cove playing music or do you guys generally keep it on either #1 or #2 all day and switch over to the other battery if you notice a weak start of the engine?
When not in use I plan to just leave the onboard charger plugged in. I had the same brand of charger on my last boat but of course it was just a single bank charger. Anytime I wasn’t using the boat I would plug into the charger and that seemed to work for me for the 2 1/2 years we owned it. I assume I do the same with this dual bank onboard charger since it will just run in a maintenance mode once it sense the batteries are charged?
I use one battery all day and keep the other full and ready to be a starting battery if need-be. Haven’t had to yet though.
A note on the 2019s, some people (myself included) get a ballast sensor fault on the bow bag when filling. I guess it’s a sensor voltage issue, so when filling run above 1100rpm or use 1&2 if you get that error msg.
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I run mine on "ALL" all the time. Though I don't sit around all day with the stereo full blast, either.Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
I alternate between #1 and #2 (never both) depending on if the days date is an even or odd number lol. I used to try and remember which battery I ran last time out but quickly gave up on that, I figure this way it kinda evens out. I only plug in the charger in the off season.
are both batteries charging during operation if the switch is only on 1 or 2?
No, only the battery selected will be charged (or drained).Quote:
Originally Posted by jason1973
On this note, can we plug it in to charge while using it? Meaning, if it’s sitting in my driveway and I’m doing something in the boat/listening to music, could be charging at the same time?
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YesQuote:
Originally Posted by Matt0520
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If you are talking about the on-board charger this is incorrect.Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
You could have the perko switch set to neither and the on-board charger will still maintain both batteries.
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That’s why the battery doctor is superior to a perko switch;
It allows the main battery to be charged first and then charges the secondary battery but if you drain the primary you press a button and it allows it to be “boosted” by the secondary battery. I have all my stereo on the secondary battery and the rest of the boat runs off the primary. With this setup both batteries get charged but you can never drain both batteries.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Wirthco-20092...1548ccff8c5c58
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You are correct, I thought he was referring to alternator charging when the boat is in use.Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Hinojosa
Yah, i was talking about the alternator. And that was my point.. you won't be charging up your batteries when running unless the switch is on to a particular battery then that will charge. I know about not using "both" batterys at the same time. I get that, but then why do we have the "both 1&2" on the selector switch.
Usually i start the boat and use the radio on battery 1 and keep battery 2 in case i run down battery one. I use it as a spare.
My main point is, if battery 1 is down on power, you can't really charge it by running the boat. The only way is to use the onboard when you get back to electricity. Can't switch the battery during operation from what i was told.
This is the misnomer spread amongst some in the boating community about the battery switch.
I had a cruiser before my wakeboard boats, and it was equipped with a Perko switch. On those boats, it is critical to use the batteries properly or you might find yourself “dead in the water” as they say floating out in the ocean or the middle of the Great Lakes!
You should ALWAYS be running on BOTH while underway. This makes sure both batteries are being charged by the alternator!
The reason for battery 1 and battery 2 is to ensure you don’t drain both while the engine is off and you are using power. i.e. stereos, lights, a fridge , etc. while moored, anchored or drifting etc, you should switch to battery 2 and then all ancillaries will run off that battery. That way if you drain it, you can still switch to battery 1 and start the boat.
As I said previously, this confusion is eliminated with something like the battery doctor. The battery doctor isolates battery draw, but does not prevent both batteries being charged and eliminates the boater from having to keep switching the switch.
If you set up the battery doctor as intended you will NEVERend up dead in the water.
With the battery doctor you run the main boat needs off battery 1 and the stereo and all ancillaries off battery 2. Then if you run your stereo until battery 2 is completely dead, the boat will still start, and once the battery doctor senses that battery 1 is fully charged, it will begin to recharge battery 2. Also in the off chance you left your anchor lights running and you killed battery 1, you press a button on the battery doctor and it connect battery 2 (so like running BOTH on a Perko switch) and allows the boat to start.
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Definitely not while the engine is running, it’ll fry a bunch of important stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason1973
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My dealer said, you shouldn't use "both" batteries as it screws with the electronics. And that was the reason. On my Mastercraft i always had it switched to both and never had any ill effects. But the dealer specifically said it wasn't about having a battery ready to go, it was about something in the electronics that didn't like both batteries in the on position.
That’s utter bullshit from whoever told you thatQuote:
Originally Posted by jason1973
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It's in the manual, at least it is for the '17s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
It says the possible voltage differential (start bank/house bank) can damage sensitive electronics like the Vision screen so 1+2 should only be used in emergency situations.
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Yet another reason to ditch that switch then.
Although I don’t see how running two batteries in parallel can somehow cause voltage differences.
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And i agree with you.. Parallel should be putting out roughly the same output. But yah, dealer said its not good for the electronics on the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
I use 1+2 to start my boat every time, I use 1+2 while surfing, wake boarding, etc. When we get to party cove, I reach down and switch the perko to battery 2 and run stereo, blow up rafts or the island for the kids. When we get ready to leave I use my airhead pump that connects to the battery (battery #2) to deflate the island and raft, switch the perko back to 1+2 start up and away we go.
Never had any issues with electronics or screens...I am calling BS on that as well.
This takes all the guess work and switching out of the equation and only costs $45!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b6eb942f62.jpg
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Those are nice, I've used them in the past. If you keep the switch on 1+2 there can't be a voltage difference. I think the manual is trying to cover people running one battery dead then combining them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
Is there a shut off switch for the battery isolator? To stop any parasitic drain while boat is not in use?
Yes. That I could see as an issue. If battery 1 is dead and battery 2 is 12V then you end up with 6V. Problem is how would you ever get the dead battery recharged without using a separate charger then?Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
With the battery doctor you don’t need a perko switch at all!
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Yes! On My Craz it is under the observer seat. But that may only be that way because I got my boat with only one battery, from the dealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason1973
I ALWAYS turn the battery off when I’m on my lift as I found that the screen drains the battery when the boat is off. If you look closely at the screen when the boat is of (in a dark place) you can ever so faintly see it is on!
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I also have a solar panel charger I connect to the battery while it’s sitting. It charges both batteries through the battery doctor if I connect it to the 1 battery.
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Matt (Goose) wrote a post about this being a big debate as far as the 1+2 position goes, I will find it and post it up in here. For myself I run it in the 1+2 position. And anytime my boat is out of the water and I don’t have the stereo on I have the charger plugged in with the switch in the “Off” position.
I know I read somewhere to not have the switch “on” and the charger plugged in at the same time......
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I know its not advised to charge with the switch on. Its been that way for a while especially in the fishing boat market. Some have complained about hurting trolling motors charging the batteries when in the on position. THere have been times i have forgotten and its never hurt anything but i just assume having it off is better.
I hope we can get to the bottom of this. 1+2 was advised against. Love to hear from Moomba on if this is a myth or not. With my MC, my batteries last all day in the 1+2 mode for starting, radio etc.. never had an issue. Now if i do this the way the dealer told me, I could drain a battery fully and have to switch over. Seems like a weird setup to me. But two batteries powering equally seems like a better way to work this. Plus they both charge when the boat is underway which is important.
Ya on my fishing boat I always turn my switch "Off" as well and I unplug my trolling motor. That is the way my dealer told me to do it when I bought it so I have always done it that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason1973
Agree with TXSurf4. I'm 90% confident Goose or Engine Nut (from Indmar) responded a couple of years ago in a thread and said that it didn't used to be the case but their recommendations now are to always run the 1+2.
So this was the first post by Goose (Matt) dealing with the battery switch location debate:
"Well, the battery switch and recommended switch location has been a point of controversy over the years and internally we probably all don't see it the same way. The most conservative approach is to recommend the consumer leave the switch in the 1 or 2 position. IF you do that, and IF you charge your batteries often, then IF you were to be sitting on the lake all day listening to the stereo and the battery went dead, then you could theoretically switch it to the other battery, start your engine and go merrily on your way.
However, what I have found is most consumers do NOT charge their batteries often. And many consumers leave the switch in 1 position forever, never turning it off. If you leave the switch in the 1 position, then you would never be charging the 2nd battery as the alternator is completely separated from the 2nd battery. If you left it that all way all season without charging it, it is likely that if you ever did need the 2nd battery, it might be dead. In addition to that, running the engine and all accessories off 1 battery only will draw that battery down very quickly. Then discharging and charging that one battery often will then make that battery fail prematurely. Worst case is you end up having 1 battery that dies premature or doesn't hold a change very long, only to find out the other battery is also dead from not being charged.
That is why I personally always run my battery switch in both and charge often. One of the highest premature failures of deep cycle batteries is not charging them often enough or leaving them in a lower voltage situation for long times. In addition to that as I said before, if you are in the both position, then you have a true dual battery bank and it will not draw down your voltage near as quick when running ballast or stereo. In addition to that, the alternator will always be charging BOTH batteries when switch is in both. Granted, it can charge one battery at a time faster than 2, but I currently trailer my boat and I almost always end up having a decent run back to the dock at the end of the day when I am finished. Running the boat at a higher RPM increases the alternator output and seems to do a decent job of recharging the batteries. And like I said, we try and plug up the R&D boats very regularly which again tops off the charge to the batteries.
As a side note, I personally think some of the low voltage codes seen in some of the newer boats are also because most people are running the battery switch in 1 position and not charging the batteries enough. If you were to fill the ballast for 15 minutes, while listening to the stereo with key off, I could definitely see the one battery getting into the 11 volts or less range. That is when we start seeing "low voltage" and this amplifies the possibility of seeing the O2 sensor codes when you start back up. That is another reason we changed the 2018 ballast to only filling when the engine is running. While some people may not like it, with the 6 pumps running, it can drain the battery fairly quickly, especially with the battery in 1 position and key off. IF you do decide to run with the battery switch in "both" but want to sit and listen to the stereo for long times, then you can still move the switch to 1 battery only while you are sitting there. If you did that, then you would probably have a good backup battery if you run the 1 battery dead. Just remember to switch it back to both after you get started and then recharge the battery when you get home.
Hope that makes sense. Sorry about change in topic, but thought it might be helpful as some of you might want to try running the battery in the "both" switch and I hope that everyone will try and charge the batteries more often. Trust me, it will help!"
Matt Brown
Just so it isn't too confusing out of context of the other thread. Another question was posed to get some clarification on the issue.
Question: "I think maybe now you can see why there is some confusion on the battery setting. If I'm following along correctly, you have said you personally use the battery "1 + 2" setting all the time on the R&D boats and that is what you recommend. That being said, it contradicts what we are told in the Owner's Manual (quoted in the other thread).
Is the Owner's Manual being overly cautious in advising that the "1+2" setting only be used in emergency situations? What about the ground differentiation mentioned in respect to sensitive electronics onboard?
TIA for any clarification!"
Goose's Reply:
"That is a good question and I will try to answer it as best as I can....
The guy that wrote that sits in the office next to mine. His job is customer service. As many of you know, they deal with problems all day because most of you happy customers never call him to tell him how much you love your boat. Because of that, they sometimes come across a little on the conservative side and especially conservative when we have prior issues with items. As the boats have gotten more electronically advanced, we have had issues with sensitive electronics. Some of that is our fault, some has been vendor issues, but truth is we have also had some issues that could have been avoided IF people would have used a little more common sense to start with. Again, that is when we really get overly conservative on the owners manual side. It reminds me of the warning on the coffee cup that says the liquid inside is hot. Granted, that was probably because of a stupid lawsuit, but I think you get my point.
Anyways, IF you use 2 different style batteries that have different voltages, then you could absolutely get ground differentiation. And having ground differentiation can cause ground loops and other issues. So, part of that statement is true. However, the way it currently reads, it sounds like it will definitely happen all the time and that part is not true. As I and others have said, we highly recommend you use 2 of the exact same style batteries that are sized appropriately and keep them properly charged. If you do that, then you should not have ground differentiation and in fact running them on the both switch location would probably help keep them from having ground differentiation to start with.
Hope that helps clear up the confusion. We are actually planning to change how we word that for the 2018 owners manuals."
So all of that information can be found in the Autowake Questions thread starting around page 9 and Ill attached it below if anyone wants to read it all in context or for those of you with new boats like myself it has a ton of great information in it.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....Wake-questions
good info. I charge every night when i return to my boat lift. So charging isn't an issue. Still concerned with what i heard about running in both screwing with electronics.
No reason to be concerned you are over thinking it at this point.