Raptor Winterization

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Originally Posted by Holdmybeer

It is really that simple.

I usually pull the impeller and let it sit with the cover off and impeller out all winter.

Pulling the side walls is to only way to reach the front of the engine.

I have an older boat so I pull my rear bags and drain but this is also so I don't stand on them doing the other work.

Oil extractor is your friend. Take a 1/4 air fitting, screw it on the oil drain hose, attach to oil extractor line and pump 100% of it out.

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Yes! Just get one of the pump style ones on Amazon for $70 and mount up one of those air fittings. I tried an electric pump and what a messy pain in the ass. The hand pump ones with the catch container are so much easier. I went around sucking the oil out of everything after the boat! Golf cart, snowmobile, mower, Lol.

I drained the plugs, reinstalled, ran 3 gallons of antifreeze through, then redrained plugs and left out. Probably overkill, but sleep better.

I do. For $15 and 10 minutes of time it's good cheap insurance.

I run it up to temp. Remove all the plugs and reinstall . Hookup a pump and pump antifreeze through the engine till it comes out pink. I let it sit for 30 minutes then I remove all the drains again. About 10 minutes of active easy work.

I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.


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Originally Posted by jcarter20

I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.


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The closed loop cooling is its own antifreeze loop. No need at all to run up to temp on the raw water side. No thermostat on this open loop. Fake-a-Lake to exhaust catch tray. Should take about 2 minutes and you are done. Truthfully in Ohio I don't do it since mine doesn't sit outside. My old I/O had to have antifreeze ran through it or bad things happened.

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Originally Posted by jcarter20

I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.


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You are all good since it's two different systems. The debate happens each year on running antifreeze vs not-running antifreeze. Then there are some that run antifreeze and drain it and some that leave it in during the winter months. My theory is whatever makes you sleep better at night.

A newer one I read on social media was to just hook up the antifreeze to run through the system without draining the water first. I'm not sure of going to the time and trouble if running antifreeze if it would just be diluted with existing water in system. I guess the theory is new liquid pushes out the old liquid, but oh well, not how I would proceed.

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Originally Posted by MJHSupra

A newer one I read on social media was to just hook up the antifreeze to run through the system without draining the water first. I'm not sure of going to the time and trouble if running antifreeze if it would just be diluted with existing water in system. I guess the theory is new liquid pushes out the old liquid, but oh well, not how I would proceed.

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This is too risky in my opinion. If you spend the effort to winterize, drain the water first, then use or don't use antifreeze depending on preference. I always antifreeze.

I will just add that marine antifreeze varies and is complicated as far a freeze point and burst point as well as made for RV plumbing or Engine winterization, they are not all the same or universal.

Let’s just say I have done it both ways on a raptor and currently pull the plugs, let it drain and put plugs back in, it really is that easy.


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Originally Posted by Hayden

This is too risky in my opinion. If you spend the effort to winterize, drain the water first, then use or don't use antifreeze depending on preference. I always antifreeze.

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100% . . . .

Any tips or tricks to get to the blue plug on the heat exchanger?

No matter how hard I tried I could not reach it through the storage locker with the panel removed.

I had to once again remove the ski locker on our 17 Supra to get to it, which adds another step.

Thoughts on always draining the transmission cooler?

Otherwise it is definitely a simple process to drain.


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Originally Posted by eder10986

Any tips or tricks to get to the blue plug on the heat exchanger?

No matter how hard I tried I could not reach it through the storage locker with the panel removed.

I had to once again remove the ski locker on our 17 Supra to get to it, which adds another step.

Thoughts on always draining the transmission cooler?

Otherwise it is definitely a simple process to drain.


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Ask your 7 foot friend with skinny arms to help you.


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