Yup I’ll be cutting mine as well. I had posted that pic once I noticed the new ones came that way and knew I had to do the mod in the off season. Does it slide out eas now?
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Yup I’ll be cutting mine as well. I had posted that pic once I noticed the new ones came that way and knew I had to do the mod in the off season. Does it slide out eas now?
Well I need to trim another 1/2” or so off each side to make it easy. Right now I have to turn it a little sideways to get it it in/out but wanted err on the conservative side with my first cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
Do you have to squeeze the box a hair? I do to get around the struts......just a slight squeeze. Should I trim off more?Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
D
Yes. Gotta squeeze!Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtnsurfer
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I figure the squeeze is inevitable but I’ll take that any day over what you normally have to do if you don’t remove the struts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
Did you tape it on with thermal tape , or did it require adhesive spray also? I would want the option to be able to remove easily for resale (when / if)?
Did it make a big difference? Thanks!!!
Why would you want to remove for resale? Who wouldn't want a quieter boat?
I've put the same stuff on my Mojo. Planning on doing the floor panel this winter if I get to it. You definitely do NOT want to fool with trying to take it off after it is applied. To answer the question, it has it's own adhesive backing and the tape is just for the seams.
^ bingo!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange
In hindsight I would use this for the bottom of the engine tray and sides of the engine walls:
Design Engineering 050130 Boom Mat Under-Hood Thermal Acoustic Lining, 32" x 54" x .75" (12 sq. feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055VTOBA..._uT8QFb38956GB
Hi, do you have any pictures of the plug light lit up at night? Would you go with it again? Just bought a 2018 Max and am thinking of going with ty e same light setup.
I replied to your pm but figured I’d share here as well. It’s a good light especially considering the lower price point when compared to some of the other brands, but when mounted at the bottom of the max hull I think it’s a little deep in the water. I’m considering adding another pair of lights a little higher up and spread apart more since my lake isn’t the clearest. If you have clear water the titan2 would likely be all you need. Here’s a pic:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloe15
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bb14f19444.jpg
Are these the only places you would put it?Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
Would you bother with the v-drive access?
Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
Did you have to add a relay or just tie into existing wire with the titan 2?
Z28Ke,Quote:
Originally Posted by Byezb
I have the same question. I found the pre-wired switch in the engine bay, but 3A won't work. Not sure where to mount a relay if needed.
Thanks
Thanks for the pics! that looks good. that will work for the lake we are mostly on!
Sorry for the delayed responses y’all, been busy with the baby at home and trying to get my c10 truck project to a stopping point before lake time!Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
I went with rgb underwater lights, so I have a controller wired in under the helm and I believe I pulled power for that right off the positive Buss bar.
Correct, I wouldn’t want to run those off a 3amp circuit. Best place to put a relay is under the helm and fish the wires down the starboard side gunwale using some really stiff bailing wire to attach it to and pull through.
Definitely on the v-drive access cover, I think that probably made the most difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloRomeo
Did you ever end up flipping the check valve when you said your midship bags wouldn’t drain or prune up all the way? Is the “loop”necessary by the midship bags or can I just run my midship vent tube lines and T directly to the rear bags? I’m about to install my midship vents and just trying to make sure it fills, drains and vents correctly using the check valves. There is no markings on the check valves for which direction is the path of flow.
The only thing I’ve changed since the original install is adding a T and using both vent ports on the top of the midship bags. I don’t recall if I posted pics of that but I will later today. The loops may not be necessary but the system works fine so I’ve left it alone, no issues with air getting trapped that I’ve noticed. It drains completely too, I’ll usually wait to drain the last 10-20% when I’m cruising home to help move the water to the stern.Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
To figure out the check valve direction blow in it with your mouth (lol sounds funny but it works)!
Sounds like what I was envisioning. I was planning on relocating my rear bag overflow from the bottom how it comes on the 2019+ Max to moving them to the top of the rear bags like how they come on 2018 Max and most other bag systems I’ve seen on various boats. Something like this below. Is that how yours ended up being?Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
https://i.imgur.com/YAQMuVX.jpg
I have two vents t’d from the top of the rear bags just like the mids in the pic, and you’ll want the check valve after the T that connects the rear and mid vents. See my lovely edit below; the green “squiggly” is where you put the check valves.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d29a6a9fc8.jpg
Thanks for the info! I’ll need to order some extra connectors to have two vents on the rear bags but no biggie. So the check valve basically will end up sort of next to the overflow thru hull fitting? Good to know!
Yep, the check valve is the last thing in the system before the thru hull fitting.
Got it and thanks for confirming. My boat is 1.5 hours away so I'm trying to do this upgrade in one trip with everything I need heh.Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
I should have realized I could have just stuck my finger in the check valve to see which way the flap went but yes blowing also works lol. The housing is also larger on the side the flapper has to fold into so that also should have been a clue for me lol. Regardless I went ahead and marked the flow direction so I don't forget when it comes time to install next week.
https://i.imgur.com/VmGecbd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JN6Qyjj.jpg
Based off your recommendation I realized I did not have enough bag and hose fittings to do two vents per each rear bag instead of one so I put in an order at WM this morning for them. I also ordered another pair of 1" Tee fittings so that I could make this plumbing network below. I think this is how I should do it similar to yours. I'm going to move my ballast sensor in between the check valve and the Tee fitting. Thoughts?
https://i.imgur.com/l5HXtBm.jpg
I’ve got Enzo’s in my mojo. They drain and fill well but after a bit of surfing it seems
I get a lot of air back in the bag. Does these check valves prevent that from happening? If so, I also plan to add a check valve to my
Front bow bag. Thanks for any info.
Please make a vid of your install. I have the WM upgrade kit as well and waiting to install once the boat is out of storage. BTW.. you are a diagram genius! So much easier to understand then trying to read the description of what is happening.
My new Makai gearbox has one heck of a high pitched scream when you put the rpm's to it. Did your Max do that, and did the sound dampening knock it down? We noticed it on the demo ride with the dealer too, and he said that's just a v drive for you. I was immediatly thinking about doing what you did.
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
Hah I like making the diagrams as it helps me understand what I need to do as well and what fittings I need to buy. Some of them are kind of pricey for what they are! Glad you enjoy them if it helps ya too!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferns
I will for sure have a video of the install and how it does filling and draining. Hopefully no issues but if there are I’ll be sure to mention it and figure out what to do next. I’m glad this community likes to share tips and help everyone out. I’ve learned a lot from the community here and very thankful of it!
“They” say not to do that on the front bow bag because it is piggybacked off the hard center tank, which you could supposedly tin can when pulling vacuum. I have doubts since even with the check valves on my rears the bags almost never get all the water out and suck flat.Quote:
Originally Posted by jnr4817
Yes the raptors are pretty loud IMO, the sound dampening was certainly worth the time and money.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
Getting there....
Of course I forgot some tools I needed so I couldn’t finish but it’s getting there. Getting the tubing on sucks lol.
https://i.imgur.com/31oes3n.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uD2C3jw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZpLQidt.jpg
Is all of that 1" tubing? Is it the same size tubing that the boat comes with?Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
Yes it’s 1”
Added some rubrail docking lights to the boat last week before taking it up to the lake. I used these: https://www.itc-marine.com/product/led-rubrail-light/
Warning: cutting the rubrail out is not for the faint of heart. I used a combination of a dremel, angle grinder with cutoff wheel, and hacksaw to make the cut.
For the wiring I found the spade connector for the heater fan “high” in the harness under the helm and ran positive to that(since I don’t have a heater), and ground to the negative bussbar under there.
Here’s some pics
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a81a9232ab.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...249730d96c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3dcf1d6a9e.jpg
Was it necessary to cut the rub rail?
The specs show them mounting over top the rail. I know to get wires and such into the boat you have to do something, but I figured just remove a screw and enlarge the hole.
I am probably missing something here, but you do have Kahunas and patience to get that done. The look great, good job.
It wouldn’t be flush mounted without cutting the rubrail.
That makes why more sense now.Quote:
Originally Posted by z28ke
If you don't mind be asking, how is the seat riser working out? I was thinking of doing the same thing to my Mojo. Read some review about the pin sticking and such.
Any input would be welcomed. Thanks
Yes interested to hear how the seat riser has been performing. I wouldn’t mind adding one to mine so that I don’t have to use the bolster on rougher days.
If I boated at night often or lived on the lake I would be installing those LEDs. I’ve seen others install them and they look right at home on the Max IMO.
We love the seat pedestal! In fact we leave it at its tallest position all the time so really no need for it’s adjustability. Funny you mention reading about the pin because once in a blue moon the damn thing will drop all the way down for some reason, but hasn’t since I used a wrench to get the pin really tight.
@Murder - Did you use the 50 or the 80 mil Kilmat? Also, what tape did you use for the edges? How did you decide to lay each square to get the most use of the mat?