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I'm going to take a stab at this. I'd like Newty to weigh in on this also but here's some questions & observations ...
1) So you've placed the sub in the footrest correct?
2) It was there before and worked ok?
3) The wire is a joke, pull some 10ga to it!
4) Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings!
5) Make sure to set the crossover hz to around 80 to start on the face knob.
Make sure all head unit settings are flat and then with the gain set low turn the volume until it distorts, turn back volume a bit and bring up gain until distortion then back just a tad. Then you can adjust head unit to taste for the sub. This is the same procedure for all speakers, don't know how well you'll detect distortion in the sub though in the footrest.
6) Pull the padding and reinforce the open end better, Kickers are not free air subs and a good sub with any power needs a solid backing.
Btw, the ZX200.2 is putting out 200w bridged @ 4ohms, the ZX700.5 blows that away so it's not that.
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1) So you've placed the sub in the footrest correct? Yes the normal spot at your feet.
2) It was there before and worked ok? Yes but had the hollow sound. I want it to sound fuller and deeper with a harder hit. Newty suggested i fill it in behind to take out the hollow hits it has.
3) The wire is a joke, pull some 10ga to it! Will do i have plenty of cable from my 12inch house sub. Monster Cable.
4) Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings! Ok will do
5) Make sure to set the crossover hz to around 80 to start on the face knob.
Make sure all head unit settings are flat and then with the gain set low turn the volume until it distorts, turn back volume a bit and bring up gain until distortion then back just a tad. Then you can adjust head unit to taste for the sub. This is the same procedure for all speakers, don't know how well you'll detect distortion in the sub though in the footrest. Ok i was planning on working on this today when it warms up a little outside. Last night at 10pm i didnt think my neighbors wanted to hear my boat.
6) Pull the padding and reinforce the open end better, Kickers are not free air subs and a good sub with any power needs a solid backing. Ok i got some other stuff thats real solid i just didn't want to suffocate the back side of the sub. Ill get it packed tight now.
Thanks Razz.
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Newty is right, i miss interpreted the meaning. Yeah if you pad it with something it'll make acousticlly better. What did you use? The problem is filler such as poly fill fools the sub into thinking it's in a larger enclosure as well as deadening.
I waited to tune mine until i was at the lake it was so loud!
The Kicker C10 work real well in a .75cf enclosure with around 400 watts to it. .75cf would be 12.5" cubed, obviously you can't get that but i'm sure it would be close. You've got the power so you need to work on the space. you could try filling the end with foam-in-a-can and closing off the opening from the ski locker end so that you can remove when neccessary. Dunno maybe Newty has some ideas
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Right now i filled it with wool packing. Its really solid and since its got a soft feature it acts as a deadner. I can get the spray foam but there is wires and the heater box right there. I am just concerned if i fill it in with a spray foam then in a year i will need access and it will be hard to get that stuff out of there.
Newty used spray foam in his he told me.
The standard 700.5 sub channel is 200 i think. Is it bridgeable? Or do i even need to do that? Im going to run that new Monster cable. Not sure if i want to block off the tube threw the Ski locker yet eighter because i might run some more things threw it.
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Bridging is between two channels, the sub channel is a single Class D.
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OK cool thanks Razz.
Ok just got done checking it all out.
Issue with the low volume on the sub was High Pass X-over switches were on. Must of came in the box like that and i missed it or something. Turned those off and it started hitting pretty decent.
Next i pulled the sub out and repacked the space behind it with some realy dense wool/cotton non flammable material i had from another old car system i ran. That was a pain to get it all in there but it fit and i made a little sot for the speaker voice coil to sit.
Also ran a 12 gauge monster cable to the sub. Fish it threw the ski locker so its all invisible.
After those changes i dialed it in like ya said, playing lots of different tunes for different bass beats and ended up setting the X-over around 120 gain is 70% Bass Boost is 15on amp.
Then turned the gain all the way down to listen to the cabin speakers and got them set. There set a bit low due to that amp really pushing them. They get so loud now i think they might over power the sub lol.
So after lots of tinkering i think i got it as dialed in as i can in the garage. Have to wait till its on the water to see how the boat drowns out mids and highs to adjust them. Right now the HU is +2 bass 0 mid and 0 treb.
Sounds really good now and hits real hard like i was hoping.
This weekend should be the tower speakers. Little worried about them. I am real nervous were i need to drill the holes and how to get the speaker wire down the tubes into the boat for the amp hook up. I got that amp all installed but have to remove the battery to connect the tower speaker wires since that corner of the amp is behind a battery. Ill get some photos this weekend and post them so you can see my work.
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Real cool! I'm glad that did it! :D
When drilling for tower speakers there's four truisms as i see it;
1) The first hole is the hardest! :p
2) Drill the hole taking in mind future upgrades, as hidden as possible.
3) Make sure & double make sure it's where you want!
4) Pull more wire than you need! There's nothing worse than finding out it's to short and you have to do it all over!
Here's a few tips to help;
1) tape the crap out of the area your drilling in case the bit skates!
2) Use a plastic grocery bag or such and tape it below the drill areas to catch the aluminum shavings otherwise you'll be picking those out of the carpet for months!
3) Debur your holes otherwise you'll strip the insulation right off of your speaker wires!
4) Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with split loom or such and shove into the holes at least 4-6" so it doesn't come back out.
That's it, go for it! :p
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Sorry I just got on and saw this. Sounds like you have it. I beleive what you have is A kicker comp CVR and its a dual voice coil. It should have 4 wire teminals on the back. I typically only run 1 wire to the sub and then split off the terminal from positive to positive and neg to neg. That keeps and confusion down at the amp. The sub side of that amp is made specifically to power Comp cvr's (like you have) and L-5's. So you coundn't have done it better if you tried. Be very careful pulling that sub in and out. That baffle is very thin and screws will strip out in that material very easily. Ideally you will need a good sealed enclosure eventually. That design has left a lot to be desired. Not the right sub for the enclosure and even if you did have the right sub the enclosure is not really a free air type enclosure. That and with the construction of the foot rest being thin and not really made to produce sound, its kind of a temporary good for the guy who really doesn't turn his radio up and only puts 10 hours a year on his boat. But for me and many others I love a good quality sound, so I like to do it right.
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Newty there ya are man, missed ya lol.
Yea i notices the material around the sub strips out i had to turn the sub 15% to compensate for 2 striped bolts the first time i removed it from when they bolted it up. Got it squared away.
Yes this winter i will for sure be picking some brains and such on how to build a much better sub enclosure for the boat. This will hold for the summer but i know i want better already lol.
As for the tower wiring.
What is Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with split loom or such and shove into the holes at least 4-6" so it doesn't come back out.
Is this the black flexable plastic tubing you can get? I have some but its way to big if for the wires in the boat cabin.
By chance can i get a few pics of places that are good to drill the holes? I assume i need 4 or 5 holes.
Two at the top to run wire to both speaker sets.
One at the lower end of the tower were is hinges to fold down
One at the top of the lower section below the hinge that allows you to fold it down.
One thew the Boat at the tower base to run the wire into the cabin for the amp?
Also where would i be able to get that plastic wire covering in small diameters?
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As for the tower wiring.
What is Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with split loom or such and shove into the holes at least 4-6" so it doesn't come back out. Answer in next question
Is this the black flexable plastic tubing you can get? I have some but its way to big if for the wires in the boat cabin. Exactly. I drilled 1/2" holes and used 1/2" black slpit loomb but then i did run 4 sets of wires too. You can mimick the other side if you'll only have two speakers. Spread it apart and insert the wires exposed outside of tower, just like your tower anchor light.
By chance can i get a few pics of places that are good to drill the holes? I assume i need 4 or 5 holes.
Two at the top to run wire to both speaker sets. Exactly. Mine is different as i have a 'glass box that stretches across the tower. I run one bundle into the box from one hole up top.
One at the lower end of the tower were is hinges to fold down same place as other side for anchor light.
One at the top of the lower section below the hinge that allows you to fold it down. same place as other side for anchor light.
One thew the Boat at the tower base to run the wire into the cabin for the amp? Before you rush that one climb in the hole and look and see if it's already there!
Also where would i be able to get that plastic wire covering in small diameters? Home Depot, Lowes, Radio Shack, any electrical supply store, auto parts
