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Yup all good! Local dude got me for 160 on the repair and another 50 to add some cup to it which I am happy I did. Rpms with the added cup are now about 3100 at 10.8mph all sacked out, I am pleased. Finally to a point to just enjoy the boat and not mess with any mods :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeGuy
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Ok, I had some time this week and put in a few hours on dialing in my wave. Just to be clear, this is my first real wake boat and I have only surfed behind one other boat, which was a centurion sv233 and it had a pretty crappy goofy wave. We are in south GA, so pretty close to sea level. I have the stock prop (1235 I think). I am goofy footed and my sons are regular. We were all able to surf with the stock ballast without the rope (settings were all ballast full including 500 stock IBS, about 10.8mph, autoflow at about 55, we usually ride with just my family when surfing, sof 5 of us and I'm by far the biggest at 6' 190lbs). I use trim plate up all the way, about 1/2 to 3/4 for the boys. The regular wave was decent, pretty good shape and clean face, just fairly short. My goofy wave was dirty no matter what I tried without listing, and very short. I am a beginner surfer and I felt like I had to work pretty hard to stay in the pocket unless I was right behind the boat, say within 5 feet of the platform. My boys could get back to about 5-10 feet and stay in the wave pretty well.
Anyway, as most of you have experienced, we wanted to make the wave better, so after reading some threads here and other research, I was able to come up with some 1100 fly high v-drive sacs to replace the 650's, and added the wakemakers panel savers. I have also been glued to the wave shaper/suck gate threads here and on the mastercraft and tige owners forums, so we built a couple versions this week to see if they would work on the craz/autoflow. So we got everything set up and went to get some scientific findings:
First, let me apologize for the lack of pictures, I am the only one in my family who seems to realize the importance of photodocumentation of surf waves...
First we filled all ballast up full, 1100 rears, 500 IBS, 700 center. Then autoflow settings were fiddled with. With this setup, we had a much taller wave with good shape on the regular/port side, but it was still dirty on the goofy/starboard side. We set cruise over 11mph, between 11 and 11.6, trim tab down 1/2 and it was definitely much more push than before. Had a real nice curl on the regular side. But the boat was really working hard, RPM around 3500 and even with trim tab all the way down, I had to stand to see over the bow. This was better, but not really what I was looking for.
What I found is that the stock IBS really doesn't give enough weight up front to work well with the upgraded rears. Ragboy at wake9 recommends 25-30% of weight up front, so I added a 400lb sac in the bow (I put it on goofy side bow seat) to give me roughly 900 up front, maybe a little less than 1/3 of my weight up there. To clean up the goofy side, I set the port rear to about 3/4. Speed was around 11mph, trim tab 3/4 to full, auto flow at 60 on goofy side.
THIS is what I was looking for! Clean face and the shape actually looked like a wave with a beautiful round base like I've seen in pictures, and not just a glorified rooster tail. I was free riding about 15 feet back (about where the rope ends). So much more push, I could stay in the pocket all day. Stock, I was working so hard, I could feel my calves burning. With this setup I rode for about 30 minutes and wasn't even tired, but I felt bad about not letting anyone else ride... The other nice thing about adding the extra bow weight was it was far easier to see over the bow and the engine was taking it easy at just over 3000 RPM. Only downside was I caught a big roller and almost sunk the boat :(
Last experiment was to add a suck gate. I made one that has the paddle in the back and attached it below the water line as far back as I could get it. Paddle is has a 20 degree angle and is about 9" x 6". By itself, I was not impressed, it just made a dirty wave with minimal shape. I turned on the autoflow and BOOM! This was probably my best goofy wave yet. The wave actually crossed the midline of the boat and was probably another 5 feet longer keeping all the other settings the same. This was pretty fun and had a huge face that if I were any good I could probably use for spins and tricks, but I'm not there yet... Downsides to the suck gate: 1. It was a bitch to control the boat at slow speeds cause it pulls to the suck gate side, and, 2. the engine was working pretty hard again, 3500 or so RPM so fuel economy would suffer.
My thoughts right now are that the upgraded sacs, extra bow weight, and suck gate gave the best possible wave available to me right now, however I'm not sure adding the suck gate is worth the extra hassle and fuel requirements. I'm pretty sure that I will stick with the non suck gate wave for my day to day activity and maybe add it from time to time for a little extra boost...
Here are my goofy settings (regular/port side is easier to set up and I think you could do it evenly weighted):
Port 1100lb rear sac at 2/3 to 3/4
Starboard 1100lb rear sac full (to overflow)
Center/IBS full (to overflow)
400lb sac on starboard bow seat
Cruise at 11
Autoflow 2.0 at 60
Water 10+ feet deep
I think this setup would make most people pretty darn happy, it sure put a big ol' smile on my face. I have never surfed a competition level wave, but I'm starting figure out what it looks like. I'm trying to figure out how to get the bow weight up without that big ugly sac on my seat. The IBS already pushes my cupholders out of the bow, not sure there's room for a bigger bag up there in the traditional bow of the CRAZ. I may try about 2-300lb lead sacs tucked as far in the bow as I can get it. Anyone else have any ideas?
Do a fully automated gate
Apparently the 750 ibs fills up about 90% in the craz. That would be a start. I run 250 under my bow filler cushion and would like to find a way to ditch that bag, but run about 900 total in the nose. I was planning on using some steel plate and mounting it somewhere under the dash.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jjdyn0mite
I'm running 1100's in the rear plus 600 on the floor. That weight up front really helps stretch the wave. I've found I can compensate a bit with the wake plate on regular side, but the wake plate just makes the goofy wave dirty if it's engaged more that 25%
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Thanks for the input, I may keep my eyes open for a 750 bag. I think 200lb in lead wake bags right in the nose would give more leverage than a larger fat sac in the bow seat, but I'm not sure...
My first post. Just upgraded the ballast and it is a bad machine. Went from the 650's to a pair of 1140's in the rear everything full and tabs set to 60 and 70 degrees. I am a big guy 6'2" 260 and have no problems. The extra weight is all it needs. Attachment 24646
What brand & where did you get 1,140 lb bags?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJennette
Has anyone had wakemakers fabricate custom bags for a Craz? I had them make some for the SA and they work great.
Got them from wake makers they said they are the lsv bags you definitely need to reinforce the diveder panel but dropped in very nicely. I used the panel savers from wake makers. Attachment 24649Attachment 24649
I'll need to call them as I can't find an 1,140 bag on their website.
I called them they were super helpful and had the bags in stock.