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Yes, similar to what is stated above by KG, you should not consider your amplifier options until you are decided on the exact speakers. Speakers absolutely dictate amplification and the utilization of that amplification. Then the process will go easy and make more sense.
David
Earmark Marine
If it was me I would probably go with option 1 that KG laid out for you. It's simple and effective.
David how do the stock kicker inboats stack up with some of the popular speakers in there price range such as the polk db series, exile, and wetsounds? I bet they could sound a lot better but are just held back because of the lack of power they get from the stock amp.
Ok... my current set up is:
(6) in boat Kicker 6.5
(1) 12" Kisker sub in it's own enclosure (ported)
(2) Roswell R6 tower speakers
(1) Kenwood HU (not sure of model)
(1) Kicker amp
I am happy with the speakers and not looking to replace. I just want to get the most out of them.
So, is adding an amp an automatic "Add a second battery" situation?
adding a second amp I would say yes add a second battery, I ran all summer a few years back wwith one battery and a 6 channel amp. once I got the second amp I added another battery and a vsr switch, works like a charm.Quote:
Originally Posted by chawk610
I hate to keep asking questions buuuutt ... Do you know which kicker sub?
I'm assuming the in-boats are the factory kicker in-boats. I think the goal there would be to get them in the 50 watt rms range. Then you want enough amp (if going with option #1) to give the sub at least 300rms, I'd think.
For hypothetical purposes, lets say you get the JL XD700.5 (you would be looking for something similar). Option 1 that was discussed before would look like this:
In boats: 700.5 using 2 channels to bow and 2 channels to cockpit = 2 x 60 watts and 4 x 45 watts
Sub: 700.5 using the sub channel to give you 300 x 1
Tower: factory amp bridged giving you 200 x 2.
That gives each of the speakers what they are looking for and will sound exponentially better than 200/9, which honestly, I'd be surprised if all speakers were running if they are all hooked up to the amp.
End min goal should be: min of 75x2 to tower; min of 40x6 (likely in a 4 channel setup)to in-boats; min of 250x1 to sub
End ideal goal should be: 100x2 to tower; 55x6 to in-boat; 300+ to sub.
Don't let the second battery scare you from an install standpoint. It's not bad.
Oh, and I've recently learned all this stuff so everything I say is subject to be changed by one of the guys that knows more. I'm just bored and felt I could be of some assistance.
I guess I need to pul up my big girl panties and just do it. I wanna look at that JL amp you mentioned... start looking at prices!
bzubke1,
To answer your question about the factory Kicker coaxials. This is a true marine speaker that is built tough. It already has a continuous midbass cone. So from a construction standpoint its a great product. And, it will definitely benefit when correctly powered.
When you go to an upgrade you are going from a 'W' style dome tweeter (which is kind of a cone/dome hybrid) to a true dome with a larger voice coil. For example, the upgrade Kicker marine coaxial that essentially looks the same, while less sensitive, has a completely different sound. Its just so much smoother.
In our soundboard we have the Polk MM651UM, upgrade Kicker marine coaxial, Exile's newer coaxial, JL Audio MX coaxial and the Wetsounds XS-650. These are all marine 6.5" coaxials.
A row down we have Boston Acoustics, Hertz, Focal and a couple of other automotive 6.5" coaixals.
Its hard to find this line up in one place so that you can really compare in a fair and equal environment. If you ever get a chance stop by for a listen.
I'd rather not pick a favorite for you.
David
Earmark Marine
David, I am looking at yalls website as we speak. Are you at the Lewisville location? Do yall install second batteries with perko? Thinking I may just need to drag the boat and leave it a week. Don't see me being able to do as clean a work as I am wanting.
Casey
The advice is definitley appreciated KG, but this is starting to get a little more compicated than I think I want to tackle. I am a tad paranoid to start messing with the boats wiring. On my '83 Mastercraft I used to have I replaced the dash with real wood... created an electrical gremlin that took me weeks to track down. I couldn't bare to do that to this boat. :)