never mind! i figured it out- did a quick google search... :) i got to get me one of these ...
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never mind! i figured it out- did a quick google search... :) i got to get me one of these ...
meech,
The HSE is out of production. So you might look into the Watersport Innovations Boost Box unit. Same basic principle with a little different approach as to how it hooks up and achieves the result. Its also a good product.
David
Earmark Marine
ehh, forget it. won't even bother.Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine
Bottomline: we asked you for nothing, you told us to contact you privately, you ignored us. We got it figured out.
KG,
(or anybody for that matter) how did you tie-in all of the LED's as you wired it all up?
I was looking at these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=082-155
I'm assuming you ran a + and - from the back of the boat to the front on each side of the boat to the power, ground, and switch. Did you use something similar as above to tie each strip or superflux light into the main wiring? Or did you even worry about a moisture seal and go with a traditional scotchlok type?
Thanks!
Viking,
Try and avoid 3M scotch lock connectors if that is what you were referencing.
Fiats were filled with them from the factory and electrical problems were constant because of them.
We like to run a couple of 18/2s around the perimeter of the boat so you potentially have two independent circuits and you can tap in anywhere you like. Its best to solder and heatshrink for minimal resistance and maximum moisture resistance. If you wanted a very small disconnect, Tyco should be a good brand.
David
Earmark Marine
Call me cheap, but I just used a single run of 18/2ga in a loop around the boat and used solderless butt connectors. I have never cared for those in-line type connectors. I left a bit of slack in the loop and each location where I have LEDs I ran a lead down and spliced into the loop. All the wiring is tucked/tied down and hidden obviously and I don't let my boat get very wet on the inside - at least not behind the scenes where the wiring is hidden. Been 3+ years now and no electrical problems.
I used modules from superbrightleds.com - plastic housings with chrome finish and they've held up really well. Hoping to add more (and more and more!?) soon. May have to compare stuff with oznium this time.
Amazing install guys, you really went all out and it shows. So how is the Krypt EQ? Does it work as advertised?
any pics berg? Thanks!
I'm looking to get it done easy and cheap too..........
Don't see a need to solder since it's up and out of the elements.
If you use Heat Sealing Connectors you have the best of both worlds, ease of use and a sealed moisture free connection. Use as a regular butt connector then apply heat to release the sealant and seal water tight. In case anyone doubts these work, Harley-Davidson has been using these on electrical connections for eons in areas that are routinly exposed to water. I've used them myself in many applications as well and can vouch for them.
alot of people might not think harley davidson is a good example when referencing quality...Quote:
Originally Posted by Razzman