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Do you think access to the drain plug is OK? Would it be better compared to the straight pipe option? We have to pull the plug every time for ANS inspections, so I need it to be relatively painless.
There is a little more room when the wakeplate is down. No access that I would call easy but with a small wrench it's doable.
Looks good!
Dan, looks fantastic. I expect a full review. :D This is on my "to do" list but this year has been very difficult.
Do you remove the Ski Platform regularly and/or how hard would it be to take it and the FAE off for storage. Like the look and advantage of the FAE but have to take my platform off for garage storage of the boat.
Full write up as soon as I can get on the lake for a test! There are several quick release options available for the FAE, but I don't take off my platform so didn't purchase them. Give FAE a call and get in on the group buy!
I have to take my platform off for the boat to fit in the garage so I added the quick release platform option. Additionally, I added the quick release clamps so that I can also remove the FAE completely for garage storage. Once I get my FAE and get it installed, I will post some pics. Hoping to get that done the week after July 4th.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakkasan
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Will the FAE keep the transom from getting black from the exhaust? Looks great btw.
Never heard of this being an issueQuote:
Originally Posted by yz 2smoke
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Sounds like someone's engine is running way rich..
Well crap, it's done that since it was new. I will get Atlanta Marine to take a look. Thanks
I've been able to get some time with the FAE and it's definitely a huge improvement. Zero changes to the wake and I'm happy about the reduced fumes, and just wish I had a way to measure the improvement.
The new y-pipe design is awesome and looks OEM, which it probably should be as an option. Overall it's just a high quality upgrade. I'm glad to see so many people get in the group buy and am guessing there will be a lot of happy customers on here.
I notice a major decrease in sound at start-up and idle, to the point where I can't always tell if it's running or not. Surf speeds are much quieter too and hearing the water on the sides of the hull is just as cool as people have described. Wakeboard speeds are definitely quieter than before but it's not like you're in an electric boat, and when you hammer the throttle there is still plenty of engine roar like you would expect.
It will make winterizing super easy this year too. I'll just put a pail full of antifreeze under the FAE and run a hose from the bucket to the vdrive fake-a-lake and let it run.
Good thought, another great benefit that I didn't even realize!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
My wife said today when we were on the way to the dealer "I know you'll say I told you so, but I want our next boat to have a FAE". Then she started talking about saving money now for all of the adds we'll want to make right from the start (FAE, Exile, Ballast, and Samson mirror)... And we aren't upgrading until the 2017 model year ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Would the raw water pump have enough draw to pull from a bucket?Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Yes, that is how I do it every year now, just without the FAE to collect the antifreeze. A hose directly connected forces water through the system (at least with my water pressure and connected to the vdrive) and so the boat doesn't ever get up to temp. Using a bucket with a hose to fill you'll see the system not pull any water for awhile, then pull water in like crazy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beejwest
Never have used the head unit so I removed it and put this slightly tacky storage container in its place. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/ety8yjag.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/ju8evu5a.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
How much was the blank switch plate? Do you think they'd sell another?Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Heck, if you could convince them to copy your template, they could EASILY sell them pre-cut for either the 420 or ZLD and make some money.
I had to buy 5 plates from them to make it worth their while. Since it's a large manufacturing shop that doesn't sell direct to consumers it took some convincing for them to adjust their line to not cut the holes and then only do a run of 5. I had to create a purchase order and jump through a few other hoops as well. I think in total it was around $300 but not sure. I would recommend just using fiberglass to cover all the existing holes and then wrap both this panel and the ignition panel in the same vinyl to either match stock or go carbon fiber.Quote:
Originally Posted by trayson
Check with Newty and MMandley but I think both of them sold off their blank panels they bought from me. Can't remember where the other 2 went.
Yikes. Yeah, that's too much money and effort for me right now. That said, it's by far the cleanest install I've seen. Much respect.
I already had my exile mounted just on the lower dash trim, so I kept it there and it'll have to do for now...
At least it's in a good spot for accessibility.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...225_202731.jpg
Brain,
What kind of check valves are you using on the fill lines? I read through all 19 pages and never saw. Looks like Cab did a similar ballast mod and used metal swing check valves. I was looking at keeping the aerator system but getting rid of the sprinkler valves and using the composite check valves from wakemakers (https://www.wakemakers.com/marine-check-valve.html).
I used whatever wakemakers offered at the time. They've gone through a few different versions trying to find the best so I'd trust the ones you linked. You will need to keep the lines high to keep them from passively filling. Good luck!
Yeah I was planning to mount them as high as possible to reduce the positive pressure they would see. While sitting still and at cruising speed they shouldn't see any positive water pressure so long as they are above the water line (although the scupper thru hull may force water in and force me to put in a 1" thru hull). On your check valve system, did you have a scupper thru hull fitting and it worked or did you replace the original fitting with a mushroom?
Also, did the vented loops for your front sacks work? I know in Cab's write up, he ended up going with an irritrol 700.
Thanks for the help!
I replaced the scupper with a mushroom. The front vented loops worked out fine once I got them high enough.
Last question (for now...) Where did you mount the vented loops for the front ballast? I was thinking in the engine bay on the back side of the rear bench seat.
If you can't tell, I'm itching for the lakes to melt so I can get out on the water, as I'm sure all of us on here are!
That is exactly where I put the loop for the ski locker bag. The vented loop for the bow sac was under the helm.Quote:
Originally Posted by chester
Boat mods help me survive the winter so I definitely know how you are feeling. If you need help spending your boat fund let me know how I can help!
The check valves we currently offer are the same ones we've had for a few years now. They are our own design and material selection to have the correct properties and work very well. Best of all, they are installation attitude agnostic, meaning you can install them where ever you want, unlike a brass swing type check valve which has to be held in a specific orientation.
You MUST either cut off the scupper or switch it out for a mushroom style fitting. If you don't do that, using an electronic valve (like the Irritrol series) is the only solution to prevent passive filling when the boat is moving through the water.
Thanks Jason! See I told you to trust the wakemakers guys. My check valves were from 2010 so these are no doubt better.
Thanks for the confirmation Jason! I have heard nothing but good things about wakemakers so was planning to get everything from them. Brain, any tips for getting the existing thru hull out? I was planning on eventually doing it but guess no time like the present... I did read through Cab's write up and i quote "beat the crap out of the old". I'd rather not break anything, so tips for an approach with more finesse would be appreciated. Sounds like possibly heat the sealant and a bar to work the valve back and forth to break one side free first.
Also, I was thinking about it and really I should be able to use check valves for the front too as long as they are mounted high up (i would likely mount them all behind the rear bench). Hydraulically I don't see why they would differ from the rear bags.
And yes, boat mods are keeping my mind busy over winter, but are also worrying my fiancee that I'm gonna sink a bunch of money on something that already works. I try to convince her that I need a bigger wake and fill it faster, but she doesn't understand yet...
I don't remember removing the old through hull being that challenging. I think heating the sealant is a good idea. Scoring the adhesive might help too if it's surrounding the fitting. Otherwise back and forth with a few good smacks should do the trick. Good idea starting with check valves since vented loops can be temperamental. For what it's worth I'd go with reversible pumps if I had it to do over again, so I wouldn't advise putting too much money into the aerators.
Can I ask why you would suggest reversible pumps? They cost way more than aerators with less flow rate IMO
The cost isn't that different once you add up all the extra pumps and parts needed for an aerator system. Reversibles are a cleaner and easier install, work all the time without priming and passive filling issues, and drain the bags completely flat every time. https://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moo...m-upgrade.html
Aerators are fast though and once I worked all the kinks out of my system I was pretty happy with it.
See I priced it all out for what i need for a 4 bag/4 pump aerator system, and including the cost of the IBS bag i get around $900. I agree the reversibles are cleaner and less finicky of a setup, but to get the same setup with reversibles including the IBS bag would be around $1600. That cost savings gets me the doomswell surf board that I want!
The qustion I have for you is once you got the aerator system through the trial and error/tinkering setup and have it dialed in, has it been pretty reliable since?
The aerators wouldn't always get the bags drained flat and I still had occasional priming issues. It filled lightning fast but drained painfully slow. After having reversibles now I won't go back.
What about 3 reversibles with the center and IBS piggybacked?
I may get an IBS and just manual fill it for now. I just got a 400 lb eight.3 with WM elevate portable pump so i can play around with weight this spring, but it sounds like an IBS is a must. I saw a photo where you overlaid a fly high and Sumo IBS, i'm assuming you tried them both in the 08 LSV. Which one seemed to maximized the weight? It looks like the fly high isn't wide enough in the legs to fill all of the rear part of the bow.
Sumo fits better and fills up more of the legs for sure.
ezcargonet is off line any idea the sizes of the nets? length/width
I found similar nets on amazon for my 17 mojo. I had eznets on my 08 lsv and they were great, but like you said, they are no longer in business.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepo26
This is what I ordered from amazon:
Ideapro Car Rear Cargo Multipurpose Net with Mounting Screw, 35x12-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G4TQKU4..._VveaBbTC4FFQP