'17 Craz Audio Questions.

The fusion 205 "zone" control is nothing more than fade with only a single pair of RCA cable outs. So you first have to have all the speakers on external amps. Other wise, zone control like tower volume, will also control the front, or bow speakers if still on the head unit.

Im not opposed to a hi to low converter, providing the amp thats getting those RCA's, can compensate for that signal. Most Kicker amp, which still come OEM in the Moomba in 2016, will. However, the converter itself can also be a source of unwanted noise, as is anything we put in the signal patch. I have not used the fusion converter, so no experience with it.

This is where i like a dual zone control like the Kicker ZXM-RLC. It only needs that single stereo RCA output to give you dual zone. Rather than divide the voltage, it is a 9V per chnl line level driver. Requires short RCA cables as the brain gets mounted by amps and knobs connect via data cables.

Knobs can be surface or panel mounted.

Easy to pair the woofer with either zone, your preference, or if the woofer amp accommodates a sub level control, you now have 3 zones.

Do at least 3 zones.


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Originally Posted by MLA

Easy to pair the woofer with either zone, your preference, or if the woofer amp accommodates a sub level control, you now have 3 zones.

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Originally Posted by russellsmojo

Do at least 3 zones.

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If he goes with a 2 zone right now, then it'd be easy enough to get a sub amp with a remote level control knob when he does add a sub down the road. Like MLA said.

You are correct. My thought is it will sound and jam fine for now until it can be done the best way.


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We're getting there

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a79edd77d6.jpg

:o ;) :)

What are you waiting for, get to work!

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Originally Posted by dusty2221

:o ;) :)

What are you waiting for, get to work!

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Still waiting on the tower adapters. There taking foreverrrrrrrrrr

Anyone know what gauge wire the tower is prewired with?


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Originally Posted by rdlangston13

Anyone know what gauge wire the tower is prewired with?


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My 2016 craz came wired with 16 gauge. I literally just finished installing some different towers and amp. I'm on the fence about pulling some 12g when I find the time. Running about 240 rms to each speaker

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Originally Posted by mattsask

My 2016 craz came wired with 16 gauge. I literally just finished installing some different towers and amp. I'm on the fence about pulling some 12g when I find the time. Running about 240 rms to each speaker

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What speakers are you running?


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I just have a pair of krypt 7.7 HLCD's bridged off a 4 channel kicker. Color me impressed.... They are loud!

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With that wattage and distance of a typical tower run, 16ga is a little light. Pull 12ga you would not need to ever upgrade again again.

It is 16 ga from the factory. On my 16 Mojo anyway

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1183bb93ca.jpg

Let's build something

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...25edd42142.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fa99adac5e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0ab36a607d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d3cedb3ba.jpg

Done and WOW!!!

I'm glad I took off today to install and didn't do this on a weekend. Cause if my neighbors were home they'd be piss at how loud this thing is.

Still have sone fine tuning to do but there are a beast.

I can relate and tend to agree... (and then some!)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...pszqt76ztp.jpg

Getting my Craz out of storage tomorrow and installing my stereo on Sunday.


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Started installing my amps today on my 2017 Craz. Is that blue wire with black stripe with round butt connector that is attached to the bow and port speaker wires near the molex connectors, the remote amp power wire?


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Originally Posted by Stazi

Started installing my amps today on my 2017 Craz. Is that blue wire with black stripe with round butt connector that is attached to the bow and port speaker wires near the molex connectors, the remote amp power wire?


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My remote turn on was blue/white. If you look at the top of the picture of the amp rack you'll see the speaker wire connection with a singe wire. That's the remote turn on I just used shrink wrap over the butt connecter. If you have single wire around the molex that might be it maybe the factory ran out of wire. You could always look at the connection behind the Fusion head unit and see what color is hooked to the remote turn on wire.

Just checked the manual. According the Fusion the remote turn on should be Blue with White stripe.

It's possible the wire changed color somewhere between the HU and amp. My HU ground was not the same color by the time it reached it's destination. I had to do some wire tracing because I removed the old amp in the fall and forgot that they ground the HU to the amp from the factory.

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That's what I was thinking. Hook a test light up to it and cycle the key to ACC and see if it goes on and off.

Yeah the Fusion HU has the typical blue/white wire going into the molex on one side and then grey/green coming out which I though was weird. Then by the speaker wires where the amp rack goes there is one single blue/black wire with a round remake butt connector on it. I guess I will just turn on the HU and see if it energizes. Really strange. Can't think what else that single blue wire that was taped to the speaker wires would be for.....


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Yeah that wire didnt work. It was only 4.3V. So I had to run a remote wire all the way around to the helm and hook it up to one of the accessory switches. So I have to turn on the amps manually. It's annoying but it works. I even check the blue white wire coming out of the Fusion HU and it wasn't even going to 12V when I turned the thing on. Totally blizzard.


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I'm not 100% but I would think you'd be fine with 4volts for the amp turn on. All the turn on it doing is flipping an internal "switch" to start receiving power from the main cable.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You would think so, but it wasn't working. Maybe because I have 3 amps and the ZLCD all connected to the same remote wire?


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The remote turn on is only supposed to be 5 volts I thought.


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I googled it and it said 12V. Regardless,it would not turn any of the amps on. Perhaps the load sharing across 4 devices is causing the problem. First time I have even had this issue amongst the numerous stereo setups I have done on boats and cars. Maybe I can mess with it later. At least the switch has me up and running for now. Has anyone else figured out what those other two accessory switches are connected to? 2 of the 3 have wires connected to the closed circuit side of the switch. I used the one that didn't to connect the remote wire to.


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Hope you didnt use a test light to find that turn-on lead? That could easily pop the output.

Nope. I only ever use a multimeter.


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Originally Posted by MLA

With that wattage and distance of a typical tower run, 16ga is a little light. Pull 12ga you would not need to ever upgrade again again.

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Will on set of two conductor 12 gauge wire support 2 rev 10a or does each speaker need its own run of wire from amp if you are running 2 pairs of 10s?


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Originally Posted by rdlangston13

Will on set of two conductor 12 gauge wire support 2 rev 10a or does each speaker need its own run of wire from amp if you are running 2 pairs of 10s?


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Knowing the amp choice, 14-4 per pair good, 12-4 per pair best.

Here's a couple a pics of my installhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8579429d51.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...867df0385a.jpg


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Big shout out thank you to Mike (MLA) for noticing an RCA issue on my setup and helping me optimize my stereo install. Thank you sir!


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Originally Posted by Stazi

Big shout out thank you to Mike (MLA) for noticing an RCA issue on my setup and helping me optimize my stereo install. Thank you sir!


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Did you relocate the power and ground terminals that were on the amp rack or are they in a different location on the 17's?

Like this...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...906bda6aed.jpg

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I didn't have an amp rack. I made
mine from scratch. Finding the matching carpet was one of the trickiest things. Now I have extra if anyone needs some.

PS my power and ground run straight back to my extra battery I added just for the stereo.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stazi

I didn't have an amp rack. I made
mine from scratch. Finding the matching carpet was one of the trickiest things. Now I have extra if anyone needs some.

PS my power and ground run straight back to my extra battery I added just for the stereo.


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Oooh cool. Well done, it looks amazing! So you're running three batteries? What are you using for a zone controller?

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No. Two batteries. My boat only came with one. I am using the Kicker ZXMRLC 2-zone controller. I also have a sub controller off the 800.5.
I can take pics of the mini rack I made for those out of a trimmed piece of cutting board that I was making suck gates out of. [emoji23]


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Lol. I have a few hacked up cutting boards laying around from the same thing. Great suggestion!

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