an old car audio guy taught me to solder every connection. last thing you want is a connection coming loose due to some wake action and losing the stereo for the day :)
just my .02 do as you will...
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an old car audio guy taught me to solder every connection. last thing you want is a connection coming loose due to some wake action and losing the stereo for the day :)
just my .02 do as you will...
I need to get a new solder gun for this project. :)
KG 12 guage is more then enough for all the speakers good choice bro.
Dusty you can get a realy nice solder gun at the Harbor Frieght, i would recoomend the gun style that has 2 wires on the tip, this is a instant hot gun and cools down realy fast, that way you dont have a hot iron in the way all the time.
As for the connections, i soldered and heat shrank all the stuff under the cubby, ran straight line to all the other locations and the only place i have twisted is the tower speakers at the top of the tower due to wanting it easier to remove the cables because i knew last summer that this winter i would pull it all out for a more wireless look.
That's the style I plan on getting. That's what I learned watching my dad use.
Hey no problem, to each his own. I've used shrink connections on the last three boats and eight or so systems i've done without one coming loose so far, they hold super strong.Quote:
Originally Posted by sandm
I have a stereo wire question. Just added a light-bar and a power/block next to the amp and speaker wires. Now I have engine whine coming through the speakers. Is there a way to fix this without rewiring the lights and or moving the power block?? Jet
here I am dusty..:twisted:
about time.
Personally i would relocate it to an under dash location.
second that and make sure you have a solid ground of the appropriate gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Razzman
For the best possible electrical connection, solder the bare wires to the speaker terminals.Quote:
Originally Posted by KG's Supra24