You have LED wires at each speaker location or you have an overhead light on the tower?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
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You have LED wires at each speaker location or you have an overhead light on the tower?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
At each location. I pulled all the plugs out in the tower and there were wires at every one. I downloaded the wiring diagram off Roswell to to confirm what each of them was for.Quote:
Originally Posted by KG's Supra24
There's even wires on the sides of the tower for the LED accent lights you can add to the bases of the tower.
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Any chance they did RGB wiring? That would be awesome!
https://roswellmarine.zendesk.com/hc...21-Nov-13_.pdf
This is similar for the Aviator 3 tower, but the 3 has more light output points not shown on this schematic.
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I won't know more till I get my boat out of storage and dig into my install.
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I'm moving from the 4 Roswell tower pods / kicker ks200.2 from factory to exile 30.2 powering 4 exile tower speakers. This setup needs the speakers wired in parallel. Do you all who have the experience know if the factory wiring setup is already in this config? In other words, I shouldn't have to change any wiring in the tower? This would make sense because the factory kicker amp is also a 2-channel.
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You can wire in parallel or series right at the amp. No need to change anything inside the tower itself.
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In other words, 4 wires from amp are independent to 4 pods on tower?
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Wouldn't that mean there needs to be 8 conductors (+ and - for each speaker) coming out of the tower? The diagram you linked only shows 4 conductors and indicates the wires come into the amp compartment wired parallel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
In RE to the Exile setup. You should be able to use the 4 conductors from the tower into the 30.2, giving each pod 210w each.
Remember this is not the A3 wiring diagram. They have not published that yet.
On my Craz there's are 8 speaker wires coming out the port leg of the tower.
Then the light wires comes out the starboard leg.
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Do you know what gauge the speaker wire is. I'm sure it's 16ga as that's all the info I'm seeing online. Everyone keeps saying for the REV10 you should use at least 14 even better would be 12. Wanting to do things right the first time is it worth the trouble to upgrade the wiring. I'm sure it's not hard, just tape the new wire to the old and pull the old wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
Yes pull some 12 for the ideal setup. I'm not going to lie though my Supra was 16ga and I'm sure no one could tell!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakkasan
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Wires looked like 16ga
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I meant to this day it's running that wayQuote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
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Hey guys,
I emailed Roswell and asked them to send me the wiring diagram for the A3 aviator tower on all of the new 2017 Moombas.
I'm pretty sure that some of you guys were thinking I was talking out of my butt when I said there were extra wires for the speakers, in this new A3 version, and this picture that I am attaching confirms it.
Perhaps the moderators want to save this picture in the archives for future use for other people that end up with the A3 tower.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bbc189ad2a.jpg
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Looks good. Will add to a sticky info thread.
Where did you get those digital voltmeters from?Quote:
Originally Posted by KG's Supra24
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https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMR-...+voltage+meterQuote:
Originally Posted by Jceclipse01
They also have blue ones.
Ok guys, I've been looking at distribution blocks, in line fuse holders, circuit breakers, power cables, ground cables, Perkos, AND ON AND ON AND ON......
Think I might be overthinking things for my application. I came across the pic online that shows the stock amp board from a 2016 Craz with the bow speaker amp upgrade( same as I getting, probably.) I looks like the Kicker amp is getting power from a stock distribution block with a 8ga wire and inline fuse.
Question: Can I run my SNY-4 from that block using a 4ga and inline fuse?
Sure would simply my setup and save on rewiring everything until I decide to put the second battery and third amp with sub in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0e5219b9ff.jpg
I'm going to piggyback on this latest post......so I think I have same distro block and wiring to the factory KX200.2 in my Mojo. My current change to Exile 30.2 (tower) and Javelin (cabin + sub) calls for 4 AWG wire for hot and ground. If Rak is correct that the factory is 8 AWG, looks like I need all new. Can I power off of that distro block with no issues? IS the supply wires to the distro block from battery / perko sufficient?
Upgrade the wires going to Factory distri to 1/0 and use 4 gauge from it to your amplifiers for best results. The 2 gauge power from factory is sufficient for two amplifiers though.
Awesome thanks. Didn't know that the factory wire was 2 gauge. Will definitely upgrade. Any idea what the inline fuse size for a SNY-4 would be.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueKaotik
Although it is 2ga, the proper gauge is derived by the potential cumulative Ampere draw x distance, and not the number of amplifiers. As an example, 2ga could be too small to drive 1 single 2500W rms mono amp, but could easily power ten Kicker PXi waterpsorts amps.
I would do those calculations now and see what the 2ga will support in terms or current draw. This will let you know if you can hold off on the total rewire for the future 3rd amp, or you need to upgrade now. If the later is the case, I would bypass that BUS setup all together for the 3 amp. Leave it as is, unless you needed that realastate for the amps. Best route to go with an unknown woofer amp and possibly a future in-boat amp upgrade.
80W would be the max, but could operate on a much smaller value, depending on how its configured.
70-75 amp fuse is for a Syn4.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakkasan
I have done several Moomba's, length was factored in for the amps you said.
Any issue connecting both (2 amps in my case) or even 3 ground wires to the single negative/ground post on the factory block as pictured above?
Orange, I always like a nice 1/0 to block no matter length because I know it will support most add on. Especially when batteries are so close and it's cheap to do in most newer boats with batteries in or near observers compartment. But, technical talk, 200amps max to blow fuses on both Exiles and the battery is way less than 10 feet from amp rack. To be honest 4 gauge works up to 10 ft @ 200 continuous amps drawn. So I think your good too bud...
Great, thanks for the advice and input. I plan on putting 4 awg for both hot and ground from amps to factory block. Will consider changing to 1 Awg from batteries to block -- if not now, in the future.
Alright guys my build start date is next week and I have almost every the figured out just a few more questions.
1) Anyone know what length cable I'd need to buy to upgrade the 2ga power/negative to the 1/0.
2) Same with the 4ga for the amps. What's a safe estimate for amp wire length to avoid ordering to short or way to much?
3) RCAs. Should I run splitters at the HU and separate cable to both amps or keep the factory cable and split at the amp end.
I'm sure there's more but that's all I can think of now.
Also anyone with the '17 Craz does the A3 tower come drilled and taped at the factory speaker mount so I can just mount the Revs with xmounts and adapters or is there more work to it.
Thanks. I'm getting the bug with and empty garage and nothing to work on.
The power and ground source are mounted directly on the amp rack. Depending on install coniguration, 3 ft max per amp
Rak, I went with 8 feet each of power and ground wire (4 awg) in order to do 2 amps. Haven't gotten to install yet but will soon. Should be plenty. Ordered from Knu konceptz as suggested on this forum.
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Thanks I'm planning or ordering from them as well. I guessin 3-4 feet on the wire from the batteries and the 8 ft you suggested seems pretty conservative and should be enough. I'll probably get my RCAs from them also. They seem pretty good on their prices and have a lot of folks out there using them.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange
1) 4 foot tops from battery to factory block.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakkasan
2) 3 foot or less for each amp.
3) you should have another RCA output (rear) from HU. I would use these and run a new line to amplifer as splitting the current RCA diminishes output voltage.
Show a pic of your tower and I can tell you for sure what is needed. Some of the Moomba towers require modification to fit in factory location, so a pic will help me know what tower.
Ok new question. I'm was pretty excited that the Fusion HU that comes with the Craz has a built in zone control but bummed to find out it only works when the speakers are hard wired into the HU. Since there's only one set of RCA outs and they control zone 1. I know everyone will say buy an EQ with zone control but I'm coming close to my budget limit on audio at the moment so. What if I got what's in the link below and hooked it to the Zone 2 wires coming out of HU. Wouldn't that give the zone control back to the Fusion Head Unit.
Has anyone used something like this before and if so do you lose and sound quality?
https://www.amazon.com/Level-Convert.../dp/B0072793NE
You are correct on hu. You are also on the right track for converting speaker wires into rca. I was never able to get a straight answer on how this device would impact sound.
Hu still does not work like an eq you would buy. You can set max levels only. I think you will want an eq in the end and so if budget is tight I would wait until you can do eq( there is a good price on one on this forum right now).
I had to send my eq back to exile and went several months without. The stereo jammed just fine. So save your bucks for now and do it right once later.
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A line output convertor can definitely degrade audio quality. Some, not all, amplifiers can process a speaker level HU output without such a convertor, whether by having separate high level inputs, or a selectable RCA input level with a differential input. If you need to add something external, use a dual line driver controller, like the Kicker or two JL Audio. These items will give you the dual zone control less expensively than an EQ and in a cleaner manner than an EQ by not extending the signal path with long to and from RCA cables. Also, these components give you dual zone control at your fingertips with the smallest possible footprint....just two small rotary controls.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakkasan
Did you want 2 or 3 zones?
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I really just want the two zones. Planned on putting the towers on the RCAs for zone one with the possibility of putting the cabins on zone two with the converter. I was thinking that with the unit made by the same company(Fusion) they would match up nice without too much lose in signal.Quote:
Originally Posted by russellsmojo
But if it does than I'm only out $20 for the converter. Then I guess I'll just toss it buy some RCA splitters and run one zone until I can pull for a real EQ.
Am I on the wrong track of thinking?
Listen to David. That converter will make your signal worse. Don't do it. They make cheap zone controllers like David said. That would be okay.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Analog
I have the kicker zone controllers in my boat & they are awesome. I have 4 zones of audio: cabin, bow, tower & subs. Custom installed where the ACC switches were. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ddf9ad5d21.jpg
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So, $100 for the kicker to control 2 zones... Or $219 for the Wetsounds 420SQ on Amazon. I know what I'd do...
https://www.amazon.com/Wet-Sounds-WS.../dp/B00DNK10HG