I went with Kirkland Syn. And Mobile 1 extended protection filter. We’ll see how it goes.
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I went with Kirkland Syn. And Mobile 1 extended protection filter. We’ll see how it goes.
Motorcraft these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxMojo
Hey guys.
Upgrade my 07 LSV to a 16 Craz with the raptor engine.
I have been reading this Thread and was wondering how the Kirkland full synthetic oil is?
Can you provide some feedback? Looking to change the oil next week
TIA.
Richard.
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Kirkland is manufactured by warren distribution. Same company who manufactures wal mart super tech.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidder522
There’s tons of information on it on bobistheoilguy.com
Personally, I think oil is too cheap, and too critical to cheap out on. Same goes for filters.
But they may not agree on BITOG. Wealth of knowledge over there, to check it out.
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I'm in the automotive service industry. You're right- you don't want Warren.Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mo
Motorcraft brand or better is not much different in price. I use Wix or Baldwin filters. Motorcraft I believe is Wix also jist branded for Ford. Napa gold does the same thing. Your 2016 is probably the cartridge style and not spin on. The cross is for a Volvo filter if trying ro pick this up at an auto parts store.
If you don't have an oil extractor, buy one before doing this job. It's a 1 time $80 hit but you won't ever change fluids (in anything) without it.
How do you like your Craz compared to LSV (I've been looking at Craz's as well)?
Thanks everyone.
I have been doing my oil changes for the past 10 years. Always used Shell Rotella For the LSV. But the new Craz uses semi synthetic.
Love the craz!! Much deeper and smoother. Also love the surf tabs!! Fill and go. Although I am tinkering with the wave right now to get the wash out of it.
Good to know about the Kirkland brand. I’ll looked at M1 or motocraft. I would think I have to go to the ford dealership to get.
First time winterizing so I am not 100% sure of what all to do. Taking it to MMS in Edmonton for the first winterization. Then hopefully over the winter I can get a check list together for winterizing the craz. We also have a heater which I am unsure of.
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Walmart carries Motocraft 5w30 semi.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidder522
Unfortunately in Canada they don’t. But they have M1, Castrol and Valvoline.
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My dealer recommends Kendall so that is what i have used on my last 2 oil changes on my Craz.
Hey guys.
So in my research I found that Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic meets and exceeds all the standards in the owners manual. Secondly, Wix is the only filter out there when I cross referenced it. It is the spin on style. Part number is 51372. Comes in standard or XP. Assuming XP means extra performance? Paper vs silicone.
Can someone chime in on which one is preferred?
Thanks.
Richard.
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XP uses synthetic fiber material and is preferred.
Mobil1 literally changes their formulations every year.
Dexos 1 is not the greatest additive package, relatively low ZDDP and ash profiles, but dexos 1 is very friendly to cats, so it’s fine for the raptors.
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Thanks Larry.
Is there something better that you would recommend for oil. I will order the XP from Amazon tonight.
Getting the correct oil always makes me second guess myself.
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Mobil 1 is still an excellent choice.
Any of the name brand synthetics are good choices, don’t over think it.
High ZDDP and ash are really only needed for high lift camshafts and the raptors have no concern there.
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Perfect. I will pick some up. Thank you for the advice!!
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Got a question on the filter and refill process for a Raptor Indmar 6.2L 2019 Makai. For the cartridge oil filter type, when you guys put your new oil filter back in, do you pour some new oil into the oil filter canister before inserting the new oil filter? (I am not talking about a spin-on type filter, I mean specifically the cartridge (https://inboardonline.com/6-2l-rapto...ct-description) type, similar to a Toyota sequoia.) I saw a video where a guy changed his oil and did this, poured in some oil to the canister before putting the new filter in and putting the top back on. I was under the impression the oil would just drain out of the filter canister back to the oil pan if you did this. I’ve already refilled the new oil to the top line of the dipstick and would not want to pour more oil into the filter canister, just to have it drain back to the oil pan and sump. Thoughts? AND where do yall place the new rubber o-ring, at the very base or on the last rib of the canister top? Note what I mean is, see how the white ring is in this photo of the canister top, located at the top ‘rib’ of the threads instead of at the very edge of the canister top https://inboardonline.com/501023-cap...-6-2l-5011023/ Asking b/c I always move it to the very top of the canister, am I wrong and the photo correct?
In over 8 years of having a raptor engine, never have done it like the older style spin on. These don't hold the oil like those did.
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Thanks, thought so, first time I’d ever seen that done. I didn’t think they held the oil—if it did, when I opened the canister, it should have had oil in it. What is your thought on the new o-ring placement? Very top or last ring of canister top?
I'm not totally sure on the O ring, have just always put it back where it was from the factory. Can't remember where, sorry.
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The o ring groove in the photo is correct and it's a pita to get it out of that groove.
It's reusable a few times and not all filters come with a new one.
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General cartridge filter knowledge.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
https://www.ecogard.com/cartridge-oi...ment-missteps/
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Good article!!
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Not a fan of the cartridge filters, ideally I would like a top mounted spin on filter.
They make conversion kits OR the earlier raptors has spin on filters, maybe can find the parts to change to spin on.
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It would be awesome if my spin on was top mounted and not hanging. Makes a mess everytime hanging down.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
Automotive shop guy here:
If you have it in the wrong groove, it will be spraying oil within 30-90 seconds. 99% of canister filters-bottom groove, the groove above is part of the threads of the canister.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLevin
For clarity, this is what I am talking about, see photo. There is a groove at the very top edge/rim of the canister, I labeled it groove #2, then one just below that area, I labeled it groove #1. The photo has a white rubber o-ring in groove #1, that I am reading from everyone is in the correct placement location of the o-ring. Groove #2 is incorrect and not where the o-ring goes. correct? Attachment 30849
I use an empty gallon washer fluid jug I cut the top off of it and drop the filter into it. Catches the oil and no messy bilge. When I worked for Audicyears ago 1.8 turbos had a filter that would leak into the subframe if you didn't catch the filer in a jug of sorts. I had a special jug called my tear bucket because the wash guy's would constantly toss it out when they took oil filters out and I would whine and complain until I found it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
Groove 1 is correct. Although, looking at the design, groove 2 likely would seal it as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLevin
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Ok thought so too after looking at the filter housing. (thanks for that edit! ;-) I was questioning myself deeply) If I recall, when I initially removed the cap, on the first oil change, the o-ring was in groove #2, at the very top of the housing.
And Yes, I agree, @Larry, great article post! Here's another: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh_u_lxznX0&t=1s
1 vote for groove #2.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLevin
thank you broo.ç