The new dash lights and depth/temp gauge in the dark:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1304356963
The gauge has a white back light with black letter/numbers, but they apparently don't show up in photographs.
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The new dash lights and depth/temp gauge in the dark:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1304356963
The gauge has a white back light with black letter/numbers, but they apparently don't show up in photographs.
Took the boat out for the first time with the new depth/temp gauge, and I must say, I absolutely love it! Its nice knowing that the water I was wakeboarding in (without a wet suit, or dry suit) was 57 degrees, lol. The depth gauge is much nicer than the unit I had before too, it seems to be very accurate, and very quick - my old one never really got consistent readings in deep water, it was more of just a shallow water alarm than a depth sounder, haha.
At any rate, I didn't snap any pics of the install of the transducer or temperature probe - the transducer was easy, I just epoxied it to the hull in the bildge, right behind the transmission.
Installing the temperature probe was a little different - I couldn't decide how I wanted to do it - the temperature probe consists of a round wire (a little smaller than what you'd have for coaxial cable for your TV), and a small sensor, about 1" x .25" x .375" - this is where the trouble came about. I had to decide between drilling a larger hole, and either filling it, or using something like this to get the piece through the hull as one, or between cutting the probe from the wires, poking the leads through a smaller hole, and re-connecting.
I decided on the latter, with the hope that cutting the wires wouldn't negatively impact the readings. Fortunately, I was right - so I ended up popping a 1/4" hole through the bottom of the boat, feeding the temp sensor wire up through the hole into the bilge, then filling the hole from the inside with epoxy. On the outside (so far) I have covered the sensor with a 10"x10" piece of sheet vinyl (like what you'd use for a wrap) - I need to get under there and epoxy it to the hull, I just wasn't sure this was all going to work so I wanted a less permanent solution until I could get it in the water.
Had the boat out last night and snapped a few pictures of my LEDs, I'm really happy with how these projects came out. I love the 'newty' underwater LED - I wish I could remember the brand, I think I want to get two more floods to go along with my sole spot in the middle, I think that would fill out the color in the back.
This was taken at about 6pm, well before dusk - not super bright, but definitely visible:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1305902852
This was just after sunset, still kinda light out but kinda dark:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1305902852
^^This was taken in about 3' of really merky water - so much so that if you look into the water you can't really see the bottom, just darkness.
Another picture of the interior LEDs:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1305902852
As with all things, this just makes me want to add more! I've got several more "pods" and strips to install, so I'll keep updating as I add them.
That totally rocks Ian! Do you have the cupholders by your glove box lit up as well or did that seem like it would be too distracting at night?
I received my orders from Oznium and Superbright a week or so ago and a few more SMD strips are on their way via ebay. Got a bunch of the cupholder style ones and some more of these in the chrome finish. I already have a couple in the cabin and really like them so adding more.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/image...ALM/ALM-x4.jpg
Planning on having the cabin pretty well lit and something in each compartment, maybe even the cooler. Also considering a strip shining down from the tower if it doesn't look too tacky. I can't do the inside lip under the grill of my Polk cabin speakers so I can't copy you there like I was hoping... ;)
Probably won't get around to installing them all until the ballast project is completely done and tested, which will hopefully be by month's end. I'll definitely post up some glowing in the dark pics when I get it finished up!
My boat doesn't have cupholders by the glovebox, at least yet. Not sure if I'd put them there or not, it seems like they'd reflect pretty badly off the windshield, especially if I have it tinted. Maybe cupholder rings would be best for that location.
I installed a hot water shower in my boat this past weekend. Wasn't too hard except we had to deal with pouring rain as we had the boat all apart and spread across my buddies lawn. Should be hitting the water with it today hopefully to give her the 2011 maiden run and get the temp on the shower set up! Then look out fisherman! LOL
I decided it would be a good idea to get the ACR wired up, since I've just been running both batteries in parallel all this time - anyway, I think the ACR is broken - it was an 'open box special' at West Marine, and with it all wired up, nothing happens. Both batteries remain connected, regardless of voltage, during starting, all the time. No action on the LED on the unit either.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1306024798
So I think I'm going to take it back and exchange for one that (hopefully) works.
Anyway, this setup won't last long, I just ordered some circuit breakers and distribution blocks and I'm going to put everything on the right side wall (ACR, battery switch, which is still not yet installed), distro blocks, breakers, and fuses), similar to Razz's setup. Also going to up to 1/0 instead of the 4AWG.
Ian looks good bro! Let me know if you want more, I still have access to the transom lights.
Ian,
Sorry for asking this but are you sure you have the acr wired correctly? How do you know that they remain combined all the time? You say you've been running both batteries in parallel. What exactly do you mean by that?
You say the LED does not light up. Are you aware that the acr waits two minutes from the time it detects a charge until the acr closes (and the LED lights up)?
Also, if you have the stock alternator, you don't need anything larger than 4 gauge from the acr to the battery or switch.
Al
Re: always combined- I used a multimeter and measured voltage at both terminals, and it was the exact same in all scenarios.Quote:
Originally Posted by cab13367
Re: batteries in parallel - the positive terminals combined and negative terminals combined - the way your 2 stereo batteries are wired.
I believe I have it wired correctly: terminal B to my stereo battery +, terminal A to my start battery +, batteries grounded together, ACR ground direct to batteries, SI to the ignition switch cranking wire (used your guidance and verified with a multimeter)
I did know about the 2 minutes after start thing, I tried it a bunch of times. Today I'm going to run a different wire to the ignition switch and see if that fixes it - thinking maybe the wire I used got pinched or split or something.
Ian,
How many batteries do you have in total? 2 or 3?
Give me a call - I can help with this. I don't think there is anything wrong with your ACR and I think this is a simple fix.
Al 503-333-5099
Ian,
I am going to assume that you only have two batteries - one for the stereo, one for starting. If so, then you don't want them wired parallel - remove the cable connecting the pos terminals together. But leave the cable connecting the negative terminals together.
Now the ACR can automatically combine or isolate your batteries as needed.
Al
Al,
Thanks for the offer! I did remove the jumper connecting the positive terminals before I installed the ACR - I didn't have a chance to mess with it in Sunday, so I don't have any new info, but I'm pretty certain that the wire I used for SI was bad - its a really small gauge 'left over' I found in the garage from an old project.
Ian,Quote:
Originally Posted by ian ashton
I don't think the SI wire is the problem but let me know what you find out.
Al
SI wire has nothing to do with the switching as i havnt wired my SI line and the switching is working like it should.
I definitely think it's the ACR - I completely disconnected and at rest its connected (measuring resistance between A & B)
Hooked it back up, disconnected the battery ground jumper (separating A & B ground) measured voltage at A & B terminal on ACR using battery A ground and got the same voltage (IE: connected)
It also makes no noises or anything - I figured you might hear a click or something when it combines (like how relays click) - is that not the case?
Ian,
Do me favor and wire the ACR exactly as shown below. Disconnect the SI wire for now. I assume you don't have the switch wired yet and that's fine. Then start your engine or connect a battery charger to the starting battery. Check the voltage at the starting battery and verify that it reads at least 13.0 volts. If so, wait at least two minutes and the green light should come on and stay on (and yes, you will hear a soft click). If not, then yes, the ACR could be faulty.
Al
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...ingDiagram.jpg
That's exactly what I did - what I found odd was that the voltage drop read at both terminals while starting too - that was kind of my tip that it was faulty. No worries, I've got it in my car ready for exchange :)
THANK YOU for all the help trouble shooting! Beers on me if you are ever in Michigan!
No problem Ian. Hope the next one works!
I exchanged the ACR and started working on panel that all this stuff is going to be mounted on. My ground distro block arrived, but not the power, so I'll wait 'till I have that to actually wire it up.
First I made a template with posterboard, then transferred it to 1/8" birch:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1306592124
Playing around with the layout (I painted the panel black):
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1306592124
I decided to flush mount the switch, and I'm going to drill holes for each wire and run everything through the back. Once I get the layout right and the holes drilled I'll wrap it in grey vinyl to match my drivers side sub facia.
I also finally got around to putting a spare on the trailer. I rarely tow, but when I do its a few hundred miles each way, so I figured it would be a good investment. I got the matching wheel & tire from Belle Tire for like $190 out the door, and just went with the Fulton mount from West Marine - it was kind of an impulse thing before our trek to Torch Lake. I think it looks good and it works, so thats all that matters :)
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1306592124
I also installed a reverse camera into the trailer - this is the coolest thing ever, makes backing into the drive way or getting out of gas stations extra easy, and probably a little safer too. It plugs directly into the in-dash in my car, so there is no screwing around with stuff.
Ian,
Nice work flush mounting the switch. I was going to do that as well but the panel I mounted it to was too thick so I ended up driling a hole behind the switch and running all the wires to it that way.
Looking forward to seeing the finish product. Did you get a chance to check the new ACR?
Al
Cab: haven't tried the new ACR yet; I forgot it at home, now we are at the cottage.
My trailer is 6 lug, the spare holder is 4 or 5 lug, as such there is cuttently only 1 bolt holding the spare to the bracket. It seems solid enough, it's lasted 300 miles so far (famous last words) It was $40 at West Marine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed G
A few more pictures :)
I re-did the LEDs above the subwoofer - before I had a single 12" solid tube - I replaced it with a ~36" flexible LED strip (the same as what I used to illuminate my tower speakers.)
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1306891999
I was so happy with how it looked that I ordered 2 more 48" strips to put in the gunnels, pictured below with the same 12" LED tubes that I replaced above the sub. The 48" strips will go all the way across, which will look a lot better.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1306891999
At some point I plan to add some blue LED pods under the back seat area - I have ballast plumbed in, so when the bag is there you won't be able to see the lights, but after my injury I haven't wakeboarded with ballast in the boat, and I certainly don't with use the ballast when skiing. In fact, the 800 pound bag is in my garage, and the 400 pound bag is in my car, lol.
I'd like you all to give a nice round of applause to the founding member of LEDs Anonymous, Mr Ian Ashton...
Ok - did I miss a pic of the tower speaker LEDs or just didn't post here?
Looks damn good! I'm jealous as mine is sitting in the garage all finished up and ready to hit the water. Unfortunately we've been hit with the 100year storm and it won't let up. Thanks for posting for us Northerners!
LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by bergermaister
I haven't finished wiring the tower LEDs, but they are the same idea as the in-boats, just bigger LEDs.
Ian you mentioned that you installed a reverse camera on your trailer. How and where did you mount that? I can see that being real handy.
I drilled a hole in the right side down tube for the prop guard - I used a flush mount camera that I got on eBay for $20, and it works great. I tied the power into the trailer reverse lights, and then ran the video RCA all the way up to the front. For now the RCA is on the outside of the trailer, I didn't have a lot of time, but I imagine that at some point I'll re-run the wire on the inside of the trailer tube. I'll post a picture in a bit...Quote:
Originally Posted by cachais
I spent a little time last night finishing up some more on the LED system. I replaced the 12" LED bars that I had in the gunnels with 48" flexable LED strips. The problem that I was having with the strips is that they bend, alot, making the light distribution look kinda off. My solution was to secure them to 48" AL channel, then mount the channel into the gunnel. It worked perfectly, now I get even distribution of light, and its much brighter.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1309458670
(If you look closely you can kind of see my rusty screws, haha)
I also finally wired up the lights in the tower speakers - our lake does 4th of July fireworks on the water, so I wanted to have all my lights up and running for that. I didn't stay out late enough to see them in the dark, but at dusk they were noticeable, I'm sure at night they'll look killer.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1309458681
I know, I know, Krypt speakers, OMG they are the worst company ever, they steal designs, yada yada. I'll say this; I've used the tower speakers about 5 times, I mostly wanted them because they look cool (LOL), so given the low cost, they were a no brainer. They sound decent, and fill the tower giving it that 'look'. Some day I'm sure I'll switch to something fancier, but thats pretty low on the list.
(DONE) Move batteries from stern to front passenger compartment
(DONE) Upgrade Tower Amp
(DONE) Upgrade Cabin Speakers
4) Redo front of sub enclosure
(DONE) Complete ballast system overhaul - 1100 bags in rear both sides, 750 in belly, T1200 pumps filling and draining everything, all new switches/wiring
6) New cover, possibly rear deck upholstery redone/repaired
(DONE) New trailer tires & spare tire mount - (Well at least the spare part anyway)
(DONE) New skid steps on trailer
(DONE) New guide bunk pads
(DONE) Small trailer fender dent repair
12) Add more LED accent lighting
(IN PROGRESS) iPod Nano touch mounted by driver stereo remote
(DONE) General cleanup and tightening anything with a screw, nut or bolt on it
(NEW/DONE) Moved driver side stereo remote.
I think next for me will be the LED lighting after looking at another one of Mr Ashton's fine updates :p I've got a box of strips, cuholder and other modules just sitting there waiting to go in!
Most of my projects sit for a while before I get the motivation and time to actually do them. My ACR, battery switch, Kicker ZX1000.1, and new amp distro blocks are all sitting in a box waiting on me, haha.
Ian,Quote:
Originally Posted by ian ashton
I used 2 of the same switches for my LED's and have used them for about a month now. I'm having issues with a short in them. I've narrowed it down to the switches. I had noticed that when they are off, sometimes there is a dull glow in the switch LED and therefore some power going to the LED's wired to the switch.
Have you encountered any troubles similar? Maybe it's due to my connections on the back. I did not solder them and maybe that will solve it?
I haven't noticed this issue at all. I also didn't solder mine, although I plan to over the winter. I used heat shrink on each of the individual terminals, and then electrical tape'd them all together, with the hope that it would give some added strength to the super tiny terminals.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
I also have mine wired into other switches though; IE: the top 2 switches control interior LEDs and Underwater LEDs - they tap into the accessory switch, so they only work when that switch is On. The bottom 2 control tower speaker amp turn on, and tower speaker LEDs, and tie into the Radio switch; again, they only turn on when the Radio switch is On.
I did this to avoid accidentally leaving one of the buttons pushed and not noticing, this way when I kill the power on the dash switches, I know everything else is off as well.
The other day I decided to move my zone volume controls into the panel with the ignition. I had ordered some nice aluminum knobs for them to jazz it up a bit.
What I started with:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1310609345
Testing out the spacing, as the circuit boards for each knob is quite a bit larger than the knob its self:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1310609345
To keep them on the same plane I measured down from the "Blower" text at the B and the R, then laid out the blue masking tape. Each knob is 3mm apart;
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1310609345
The finished product; I need to tweak the center knobs position, as its angled up making it look unlevel. I think its due to the way I circuit boards positioned, I haven't really tweaked it yet.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment....1&d=1310609345
Looking good Ian! Where did you get the aluminum knobs? I am about to do the same.
LED Project - nearing completion. I had a few already, but then a few is never enough...
Added two strips tucked up under the back cushion. Love that glow.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070616.jpg
I had ordered 10 of the cupholder Ozniums, but after adding the strips up above the speakers I decided that would be a bit too much. Kind of like the simple glow.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070617.jpg
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070624.jpg
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070618.jpg
And more-
One module for the storage which is also where all the lifejackets and sweatshirts usually end up at the end of the day.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070615.jpg
Each storage compartment.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070627.jpg
And the last beer is mine! I thought twice about drilling a hole in the cooler but then again, it's not like it works all that great anyway... This would look really cool if it were packed with ice having the blue light reflect off it.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070626.jpg
Rear compartments shining down on the ballast bags - usually covered by wet towels and stuff by night time.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070629.jpg
Dude where's my keys and phone? In the glovebox...
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/glovebox.jpg
And this one I've been wanting to do for a while. I'm not quite ready to spring for underwater LEDs so I added a few strips up under the lip of the hull shining down onto the platform. Pics don't really do it justice - looks way cool in the pitch black and will look even better reflecting off the water.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070619.jpg
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070640.jpg[IMG]
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...V/P1070625.jpg