Found one of these on eBay with 1 1/4" diameter. Did you grind off more than 1/4"?
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Found one of these on eBay with 1 1/4" diameter. Did you grind off more than 1/4"?
In each of the rear v-drive lockers I used one medium and one small side-by-side. I am really happy with this setup and use those nets all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by tprkolbas
i wonder if the the upgraded 750lb ballast bags would affect the nets in the locker...anyone know?
Here is a shot showing the older round 750s (50"x20"). You can't store anything too big there with them full, but it works great for ropes and handles.Quote:
Originally Posted by gus 08 mobius lsv
wow that was quick! ok good to know i'm getting ready to upgrade the ballast and had some of those nets i bought on clearance at sears!Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Assuming you mean the ski locker plug... Mine measures just over 1 1/4". Slimming them down was easy. I just slid the rubber piece over the end of my drill and spun it on a drywall rasp. The rubber is soft so it shapes easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by tejansma
Just some peel and stick traction tape cut to fit. Gives traction when grabbing boards out of the racks and protects the boat from the tower arms when lowering the tower.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/gunwale1.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/gunwale2.jpg
where did you get the white traction tape?
Bass Pro Shops for about $7Quote:
Originally Posted by c.rix
thanks Brain got it ordered
hey how hard was it to get to the hoses for this upgrade? what size are the hull fittings?Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
looks so much better with stainless instead the ugly black ones i think it'd look sharp on my my red boat
You want to order 3/4 threw hull fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by gus 08 mobius lsv
To get to the 3 rear ones when you open your rear V storage doors, theres a carpeted backing attached to the what would be the rear seat. Remove the 2 screws and that panel comes off and tou can reach the back fittings.
There is a large bolt that holds the the hull fitting onto the boat. My new ones didnt come with O rings. I got 4 O rings at the local Ace hardware. Make sure they are pretty thick as this is going to be touching the gell coat and you dont want your stainless on your gell coat.
The front one is a bit harder to get to, craw under the drivers dash and you will see the hose connection to the threw hull fitting.
I did all 4 of mine in about 45 minutes.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=7844&page=5
Yep, mmandley said it well. I'd add that the front one can be interesting to get to. I wrapped a pair of needlenose pliers in duct tape and had a helper use that to keep the fitting in place from outside the boat while I tightened the nut on the inside.
Also I didn't add an o-ring to mine. I view them as permanent fixtures so am not concerned with the gel underneath.
Good luck, it's a great upgrade!
brain or mandley do you have any idea where else to get these ? i checked on ebay and for the solid ss the cheapest i seen is 19 a piece. mike u said your got all 4 for 40 so i'm gonna keep looking for a deal.
The seller is halfpricemarine. They sell in sets of 3, but I emailed and they added 1 to the invoice for just a few bucks more. Here's a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Set-3...r#ht_729wt_939
If i recall thats who i got mine threw. Let me look again for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Heres my invoice for it last year.
Hello Michael Mandley,
Payment Details
Purchased From:halfpricemarine
Receipt ID:0824-4841-4079-3605
Item # Item Title Quantity Price Subtotal
120425998497 Set (3) Stainless Boat Thru Hull Fittings 3/4" Fitting 1 $21.99 USD $21.99 USD
Shipping & Handling via USPS Priority Mail to 970XX
(includes any seller handling fees) $7.95 USD
Shipping Insurance (not offered): --
Seller Discounts (-) or Charges (+):
(seller discounts, services, etc.) $7.51 USD
Total: $37.45 USD
The extra one is the last part where it says Seller Discount and services. Thats where he charges me a 4th one.
hey thanks to the both of you for the help gonna send em an email and do the same!
Here's a sneak peak at my ballast project. This setup x2 will give me a dedicated pump for each fat sac. Using 1" fill lines all around with one-way valves for the rear sacs and 1" vented loops for the front sacs. The factory 3/4" fill hoses will be cut and used for venting each bag.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...allastfill.jpg
bet that was a pain to get that hose to stretch over the pump threads
Mike - What size of o-rings did you use?
YES! Boiling water helped, but still... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by moombadaze
Not sure if this is directed to me, i dont recall the exact size. I went to ACE Hardware with the fitting in my hand and test fit them till it fit. I know its a fat black O Ring so it can be squished a bit and still not allow the O Ring to touch. I actually have another threw Hull fitting and i will stop in Monday to get the O Ring and get back with ya.Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeg333
Yeh Mike, that was for you. I'll just do the same. ACE isn't too far from my place, so I'll swing by this weekend with a fitting and see what I can find. Thanks!
Got the new thru hulls installed. Not much to see, but thought I'd show the location.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...u_hull_new.jpg
I added vents to each bag and tied them into the drain lines. You can see the check valve and wye fitting in this pic. This is hidden by the carpeted panels in the lockers and out of sight up above the drivers footwell. I reused the factory 3/4" fill lines so it was fairly inexpensive.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...20LSV/vent.jpg
Im a bit confused, this looks like the V drive area? Did you put new threw hulls for intakes to the pumps your running?Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
wow, killin it with the mods. good stuff!!
Yep, the thru hulls are in the bilge area and are for the pumps I'm adding. I started fresh with 1" thru hulls rather than reusing the factory grated intake since that was only 3/4". You can see the layout of the pumps in one of the pics above. 2 tsunami 1200 pumps on each 1" thru hull.Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
Thanks! I haven't really done anything major, just little stuff to make the boat work better for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by insanepolack
Ohh nice man nice. I'm still planning out my ballast upgrade, I havnt forgot your offer yet, just really trying to get this stereo project done.
I hope i can get it done before the Tech and Tune this Sunday at Exile. We are having issues getting the equipment in at the moment.
Hey Brain_Rinse!
Are those 3/4"? I'm looking at buying the 3 pack from the same ebay retailer and don't have my boat here handy to check? I'm sure they are? And do the lenghts vary?
Thanks!
All mods look good!
Brian
Quote:
Originally Posted by brain_rinse
Yep, they are 3/4" and are the same length as the stock black ones. They are high quality pieces, I don't think you'll be dissappointed!Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
I went with a Clarion EQS746 to allow additional stereo control from the drivers seat. Most important to me was controlling the tower speaker volume independent of the cabin speakers. But the sub control and aux input sure are nice too. I had to get a blank panel which was no small task to track down, but in the end it made for a clean install.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/92d9b82c.jpg
Brain, where the resettable breakers, zip tied above the eq.? are they accessible?
There is a panel up under the helm that has all of the breakers. I know on some models they have the breakers right by the switches, but mine was never that way... just a row of switches before.
Well it took a lot longer to get to this point than I had planned. After cutting the 1" NPS threaded thru hulls to length, installing, and letting the adhesive cure, I found that the ball valve would not thread on to them correctly. What I thought I bought from wakemakers was a ball valve with NPS on the intake side and NPT on the output. But in reality they were NPT on both sides and the NPS/NPT valves were no longer available.
Wakemakers was great though and located some thru hulls with combination threads... NPS threaded with NPT on the end. They sent the new thru hulls free of charge, I just had to remove the old ones and do the process over again.
Visually nothing has changed from the pics I posted earlier. And here is a pic of one of the thru hulls with ball valve and tee installed. Next up is getting the pumps mounted once the adhesive sets up.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m.../ballvalve.jpg
Here are all 4 ballast fill pumps installed and wired up. Tsunami 1200s with 1" lines. I reused sprinkler valve wiring plus the fill pump wires so I didn't have to run any new wires back from the switches.
One mistake I made was using spa hose. It is very rigid and difficult to work with. I had to use the heat gun or boiling water to make every connection, and poly pipe cutters to cut it. But then the check valves I used to keep the rear bags from filling, and the vented loops I used for the ski locker and integrated bow sacs were too loose, and couldn't be clamped tight enough to keep them from leaking. So boiling water saved the day with some barb fittings that I was able to heat and stretch over the ends, with a little silicone just in case. Moral of the story, spa hose is not ballast hose.
Update: I finally replaced all the spa hose with actual ballast hose. The internal diameter was slightly smaller so the vented loops and check valves fit much better. I was able to remove all the extra adapters I had added to accommodate the spa hose. I used the factory style crimp connectors for a cleaner look. Wish I would have just done this from the beginning!
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...llastpumps.jpg
Simple mod that took all of 5 minutes to install. Thanks to Razzman and his low-price find: link
Added 90 degree barb fittings to both sides of the strainer, 2 cuts of the intake hose, and a couple extra hose clamps. Done.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/65e46fa4.jpg
Here are a few pics of the integrated bow sac. This thing fits like a glove and will add a few hundred much needed pounds up front. One of the T1200's fills it from the top of one of the legs. 2 T800s to drain it, one at the bottom of each leg. I added a new thru hull to each side. The center/top port I used to vent and tied into one of the drain lines (not pictured.)
I also added a switch which just required modifying the factory panel and enlarging the fiberglass cutout behind it a bit. I'm still waiting on the switch face to match the other 3 and it will all be looking factory.
One other thing worth mentioning... The drain holes on the bottom of my cupholders were sharp! I cut them off and ground it smooth.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/b263490b.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...LSV/bowsac.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/7a25d5ba.jpg
Got some longer battery cables and pushed my batteries as far back as possible. With that bow sac I need to make the best use of all available space!
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/m...V/b24399b3.jpg
Looks really sweet Brain. Did you make a whole new ballast switch panel? If so where did you get that panel blank?
Are you not running a vent out of the center top plug on that nose bag?
I would highly recommend you put a vent hose there. This bag will get air in it the same as the others can do.