Wha wha what! Me :)
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Wha wha what! Me :)
Had a friend that used to say, "I'd rather be a smart arse than a Dumas!"
KB, you trying to say something here?
Kick his ass sea bass!
Wow Newty, didn't think you had such an itchy trigger finger :)
LOL, I almost fell out of my chair when I read that!!:p
That was funny. Good stuff on here!.
Hey Like I always say, that's what were here for...comic relief!
Woot ok got the new amps in today. Got them installed and sounds a lot better. The cabin speakers are rocking now.
The sub im concerned about. Its a Kicker C10 and i have it on the sub output of the Kicker ZX 700.5
The sub has 4 wires ran from it. Red White and Green Black. RW is + and the WG is - I assume the dealer did this because they ran a 4 wire loom and used both sets to make the transfer of the signal stronger.
My issue is it jsut seems the sub isn't hitting hard unless i pump a lot of extra bass into it. Turning the Bass up using the Gain and extra Bass on the amp. Then cranking the remote bass volume nob all the way up.
Can i bridge this 1 sub channel? Would i mix the + and - off the sub going to the amp?
Little lost for options.
C10's kick some butt and the class D channel is the 700.5 puts more than enough juice for it. I gather it's a Comp 10 4ohm single voice coil? I don't get the two wires thingy. What size is the wire? It should be at least 12 ga and preferably 10ga wire. I've installed three of those and all sounded great.
Yes its the 4ohm style speaker. It was hitting really good on the Kicker 200.2 that was bridged. I added some padding behind the speaker to fill in the open hole, i really didn't want to use spray foam in fear i would need to access that area. I used some extra padding i had. Just lightly filled the area in behind it. Im not suffocating the speaker am i?
The wire it pretty thin to be honest. Id say 16 possibly 12 guage, its the standard multi loom stereo shops are using, its in a whit jacket. Looks a lot like phone cable to be honest lol.
I could pull some 12 or larger threw if thats the real issue. I was able to pull the Bass voluum control cable threw the ski locker and stuff.
Thanks Moomba owners. I used a tip for running wires from port to starboard with out being able to see it or drill new holes.
I'm going to take a stab at this. I'd like Newty to weigh in on this also but here's some questions & observations ...
1) So you've placed the sub in the footrest correct?
2) It was there before and worked ok?
3) The wire is a joke, pull some 10ga to it!
4) Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings!
5) Make sure to set the crossover hz to around 80 to start on the face knob.
Make sure all head unit settings are flat and then with the gain set low turn the volume until it distorts, turn back volume a bit and bring up gain until distortion then back just a tad. Then you can adjust head unit to taste for the sub. This is the same procedure for all speakers, don't know how well you'll detect distortion in the sub though in the footrest.
6) Pull the padding and reinforce the open end better, Kickers are not free air subs and a good sub with any power needs a solid backing.
Btw, the ZX200.2 is putting out 200w bridged @ 4ohms, the ZX700.5 blows that away so it's not that.
1) So you've placed the sub in the footrest correct? Yes the normal spot at your feet.
2) It was there before and worked ok? Yes but had the hollow sound. I want it to sound fuller and deeper with a harder hit. Newty suggested i fill it in behind to take out the hollow hits it has.
3) The wire is a joke, pull some 10ga to it! Will do i have plenty of cable from my 12inch house sub. Monster Cable.
4) Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings! Check the amp settings! Ok will do
5) Make sure to set the crossover hz to around 80 to start on the face knob.
Make sure all head unit settings are flat and then with the gain set low turn the volume until it distorts, turn back volume a bit and bring up gain until distortion then back just a tad. Then you can adjust head unit to taste for the sub. This is the same procedure for all speakers, don't know how well you'll detect distortion in the sub though in the footrest. Ok i was planning on working on this today when it warms up a little outside. Last night at 10pm i didnt think my neighbors wanted to hear my boat.
6) Pull the padding and reinforce the open end better, Kickers are not free air subs and a good sub with any power needs a solid backing. Ok i got some other stuff thats real solid i just didn't want to suffocate the back side of the sub. Ill get it packed tight now.
Thanks Razz.
Newty is right, i miss interpreted the meaning. Yeah if you pad it with something it'll make acousticlly better. What did you use? The problem is filler such as poly fill fools the sub into thinking it's in a larger enclosure as well as deadening.
I waited to tune mine until i was at the lake it was so loud!
The Kicker C10 work real well in a .75cf enclosure with around 400 watts to it. .75cf would be 12.5" cubed, obviously you can't get that but i'm sure it would be close. You've got the power so you need to work on the space. you could try filling the end with foam-in-a-can and closing off the opening from the ski locker end so that you can remove when neccessary. Dunno maybe Newty has some ideas
Right now i filled it with wool packing. Its really solid and since its got a soft feature it acts as a deadner. I can get the spray foam but there is wires and the heater box right there. I am just concerned if i fill it in with a spray foam then in a year i will need access and it will be hard to get that stuff out of there.
Newty used spray foam in his he told me.
The standard 700.5 sub channel is 200 i think. Is it bridgeable? Or do i even need to do that? Im going to run that new Monster cable. Not sure if i want to block off the tube threw the Ski locker yet eighter because i might run some more things threw it.
Bridging is between two channels, the sub channel is a single Class D.
OK cool thanks Razz.
Ok just got done checking it all out.
Issue with the low volume on the sub was High Pass X-over switches were on. Must of came in the box like that and i missed it or something. Turned those off and it started hitting pretty decent.
Next i pulled the sub out and repacked the space behind it with some realy dense wool/cotton non flammable material i had from another old car system i ran. That was a pain to get it all in there but it fit and i made a little sot for the speaker voice coil to sit.
Also ran a 12 gauge monster cable to the sub. Fish it threw the ski locker so its all invisible.
After those changes i dialed it in like ya said, playing lots of different tunes for different bass beats and ended up setting the X-over around 120 gain is 70% Bass Boost is 15on amp.
Then turned the gain all the way down to listen to the cabin speakers and got them set. There set a bit low due to that amp really pushing them. They get so loud now i think they might over power the sub lol.
So after lots of tinkering i think i got it as dialed in as i can in the garage. Have to wait till its on the water to see how the boat drowns out mids and highs to adjust them. Right now the HU is +2 bass 0 mid and 0 treb.
Sounds really good now and hits real hard like i was hoping.
This weekend should be the tower speakers. Little worried about them. I am real nervous were i need to drill the holes and how to get the speaker wire down the tubes into the boat for the amp hook up. I got that amp all installed but have to remove the battery to connect the tower speaker wires since that corner of the amp is behind a battery. Ill get some photos this weekend and post them so you can see my work.
Real cool! I'm glad that did it! :D
When drilling for tower speakers there's four truisms as i see it;
1) The first hole is the hardest! :p
2) Drill the hole taking in mind future upgrades, as hidden as possible.
3) Make sure & double make sure it's where you want!
4) Pull more wire than you need! There's nothing worse than finding out it's to short and you have to do it all over!
Here's a few tips to help;
1) tape the crap out of the area your drilling in case the bit skates!
2) Use a plastic grocery bag or such and tape it below the drill areas to catch the aluminum shavings otherwise you'll be picking those out of the carpet for months!
3) Debur your holes otherwise you'll strip the insulation right off of your speaker wires!
4) Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with split loom or such and shove into the holes at least 4-6" so it doesn't come back out.
That's it, go for it! :p
Sorry I just got on and saw this. Sounds like you have it. I beleive what you have is A kicker comp CVR and its a dual voice coil. It should have 4 wire teminals on the back. I typically only run 1 wire to the sub and then split off the terminal from positive to positive and neg to neg. That keeps and confusion down at the amp. The sub side of that amp is made specifically to power Comp cvr's (like you have) and L-5's. So you coundn't have done it better if you tried. Be very careful pulling that sub in and out. That baffle is very thin and screws will strip out in that material very easily. Ideally you will need a good sealed enclosure eventually. That design has left a lot to be desired. Not the right sub for the enclosure and even if you did have the right sub the enclosure is not really a free air type enclosure. That and with the construction of the foot rest being thin and not really made to produce sound, its kind of a temporary good for the guy who really doesn't turn his radio up and only puts 10 hours a year on his boat. But for me and many others I love a good quality sound, so I like to do it right.
Newty there ya are man, missed ya lol.
Yea i notices the material around the sub strips out i had to turn the sub 15% to compensate for 2 striped bolts the first time i removed it from when they bolted it up. Got it squared away.
Yes this winter i will for sure be picking some brains and such on how to build a much better sub enclosure for the boat. This will hold for the summer but i know i want better already lol.
As for the tower wiring.
What is Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with split loom or such and shove into the holes at least 4-6" so it doesn't come back out.
Is this the black flexable plastic tubing you can get? I have some but its way to big if for the wires in the boat cabin.
By chance can i get a few pics of places that are good to drill the holes? I assume i need 4 or 5 holes.
Two at the top to run wire to both speaker sets.
One at the lower end of the tower were is hinges to fold down
One at the top of the lower section below the hinge that allows you to fold it down.
One thew the Boat at the tower base to run the wire into the cabin for the amp?
Also where would i be able to get that plastic wire covering in small diameters?
As for the tower wiring.
What is Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with split loom or such and shove into the holes at least 4-6" so it doesn't come back out. Answer in next question
Is this the black flexable plastic tubing you can get? I have some but its way to big if for the wires in the boat cabin. Exactly. I drilled 1/2" holes and used 1/2" black slpit loomb but then i did run 4 sets of wires too. You can mimick the other side if you'll only have two speakers. Spread it apart and insert the wires exposed outside of tower, just like your tower anchor light.
By chance can i get a few pics of places that are good to drill the holes? I assume i need 4 or 5 holes.
Two at the top to run wire to both speaker sets. Exactly. Mine is different as i have a 'glass box that stretches across the tower. I run one bundle into the box from one hole up top.
One at the lower end of the tower were is hinges to fold down same place as other side for anchor light.
One at the top of the lower section below the hinge that allows you to fold it down. same place as other side for anchor light.
One thew the Boat at the tower base to run the wire into the cabin for the amp? Before you rush that one climb in the hole and look and see if it's already there!
Also where would i be able to get that plastic wire covering in small diameters? Home Depot, Lowes, Radio Shack, any electrical supply store, auto parts
Heres a pic of my Amps now. The batteries are out in this pic and you cant see my CB protection as it wasnt installed till after the batteries went in.
Attaway! Looks almost like you knew what you were doing.;)
Thanks. That means a lot to me comming from you Newty =) Only thing different is the very top wires for the Sub are now Monster cables. Ill get some pics of it after i get the tower speakers in and the batteries back in it. Hope to get that done Saturday so we can jam out Sunday on the water.
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
Glad to see that Razz and Newty are helping you out. They know their stuff!
Regarding the tower speaker install, I did that last year - check out the post below. I think you will find it helpful.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....peaker+install
Let me know if you have any questions.
Good luck.
Al
Looks good! There's only one thing i see i could recommend. Tie up all your wiring so it doesn't move around when the boats in motion. Over time it can fatigue the terminations and break strands or completely break, otherwise great job! Now get those tower speakers done! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
Thanks Cab thats exactly what i was looking for is pictures of drill hole locations to give me an idea of were to drill. I surly hope i don't have to remove my tower. I really hate the idea of doing that.
Razz, I have all the wires tight at the amp. I have them tucked behind the amp board and coming out to the amp.
Also on the floor where it runs behind the batteries its all zipped and i used Loop mounting brackets for wires to hole them to the wall also. When you say tighten them up are you meaning mount them to the amp board right before they hook to the amp? So there's no vibrations t those points?
Yeah, just mounted to the board should do.
Cool Razz it will have to wait till i get my towers in. There's no way im crawling back in that hole for something that small LOL. My GF cracks up at my contortionist impression when im going in there to work on anything already lol.
Checked UPS and dam towers arnt even shipped yet from the company i bought them from. grumble grumble.
At least i got the rest done so we can jam near the boat. The people in the water will have to be happy listening the rumble of the 350 V8
Mike,
Just watch out for the GF when she pulls out a camera to video you working on the amps.
Ohh yes i know. She loves to take photos, hince why she isnt in a lot of them. But luckily i upload and post everything so i can to monitor them that way.
She does like to do cruel things like tickle me or toss ice chips at me from her drink. Since im in that hole i cant just jump right up, or out lol.
I hate the hole! This one is worse than my last boat and it was a closed bow! :mad:
Ya i know about that hole. I have gotten stuck before and that was not good. Next time i do anywork in there i will remove the batterys.
Mike that GF sounds like a keeper. Have to watchout for woman like that.
Which way do you recomend splitting a four channel amp to six speakers
I'v been reading your posts for info and getting ready to install six momo's
and a four ch amp 720watts would love to do your set up but two kids in university is killing the bank account.my head unit is a sony xplod
Thanks
Northofthe49th, no problem to do that. Parallel wire the four main cabin speakers to channels 1 & 2. In otherwords run the wires from the port side pair to channel 1, and the starboard pair to channel 2. Now connect the two bow speakers to channels 3 (port) & 4 (starboard). Tune your amp to the main cabin speakers as they'll be recieving more power than the bow speakers.
when you run them in parallel does that drop the resistance from 4 ohms to 2 ohms? or why does it put more power to those speakers?
Yes it drops them to 2ohms which if i remember correctly make the amp more efficient hence additional power. This also causes some amps to run hotter. I think all of your name brand amps are 2ohm stable now. I know my Kicker ZX series are and they don't run hot at all hardly.
Newty that about explains it correctly i think?
I got a quick question here. For example Razz is using a total of two amps with a total of 9 channels. And his head unit same as mine has three pre outs for rca cables. So my question is basically how do you run rca cables for the rest of the channels? Or do you have do you have to use a different method?
On the main cabin i'm using a Kicker ZX700.5 five channel amp. The main cabins are connected parallel to channels 1/2. The bow speakers are connected to 3/4 and the sub to the class D channel. A Kicker ZX650.4 is running the four towers, one to each channel.
So on the Pioneer the front preout RCAs are going to the four channels of the 700.5. The rear preouts are going to the 650.4 and the sub preout is going to the sub inputs on the 700.5.
Does that make sense?
Does that mean you have RCA splitters for the front and rear preouts? Because on the 700.5 amp you need two RCA cables for the cabin and on RCA cable for the sub. And for the rear preout you also need two RCA cables. Don't you?
You need one pair for each channel so you'd have to split it unless you have the newer Kicker which detect the signal for both inputs with just one set of RCAs with the flick of a switch.