did you try moving that little black lever on the valve?
oh they are 24 volt soleniod.
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did you try moving that little black lever on the valve?
oh they are 24 volt soleniod.
Yes. I know in the on position, the water should move through the valve. I had the solenoid off. I stuck my finger in the valve and pushed up the diaphram. It moved very easy.
was this a new valve that you had to wire up the soleniod to power?
yes. I went to Home Depot and purchased the valve for about $11.00. Maybe a got the wrong kind?
try removing the 8 screws and then pull the black plunger out-it could just be "stuck" from sitting like that so long in the box
OK I will give it a try.
one thing i cannot figure out on these valves is what the little black lever does- i have the "lid/top" off and when you move the lever nothing happens
OK. I checked everything. I had the pump on and no solenoid. Nothing came out. I stuck my finger in the valve and pushed up the diaphragm. The water came out flowing. I wonder if the diaphragm is too thick. Maybe built for higher pressures?
Correct me if I am wrong. when power is supplied to the solenoid, it pulls the pin in? Right
OK a couple of things. The little black lever is an electrical bypass. So it works the same way as if it were energized. The lever pushes that little white plunger down. That is what opens the valve.
That being said because it is a 24 volt solenoid it may not have enough juice to open the valve. I have not seen a 12 volt solenoid anywhere except the these boats. Do you have the old solenoids, or did you ever have them?
The little black lever should open the valve weather it is wired or not.
ive got a barcode sticker on my 3/4 valve that says
"for outdoor use only
57203
3/4 FPT auto inline Vlv NFC; blk
bar code numbers
46878 57203"
You may also have the solenoid wired backwards. As far as I know it does matter.
yes and when power is cut it kinda shots that little piece out--dont ask how long it took to find it:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by tazz3069
Solenoid coils are rated 24 VAC but work fine with 12 VDC.
For some reason mine is not working. I removed the solenoid and tested it. When I hit the switch, the pin is pulled in. When I flip the switch off, the pin releases and comes back out.
Newty, That little white plunger does not move on mine. I wonder if I can remove it and grease it up somehow. How would I know if it is wired backwards? Should the solenoid push the white plunger down?
last night, I went back in the boat to figure this out. When the pump is on, nothing comes out of the valve. I put my finger in the output of the valve and pushed on the diaphram. The diaphram went up and out came the water. Could this particular valve not be the right one. Were did you get yours?
Tazz, the white plunger looking part does not move on my valve's either, i think it works off vacum, when the soleniod is energized it pulls in and creats vacum to help open the valve. The black lever should be sticking "out" not up/on.
Im at work now and thinking off a fuzzy memory
Maybe my white plunger is clogged. I will check it out.
oh i got my 1" valve at home depot
I crawled up in the boat last night and all the original soleniods are 24 volt.
Anybody have a idea were i can get the factoy wire connector's?
I had cut mine off the old solenoids before they went into the trash. I also tossed the valves in the trash. I should have waited. Hopefully we can figure out why mine is not working.
I'm at work right now so with out the valve in front of me I don't really know if I can help.
Just a couple trouble shooting q's...
Are you sure you have power to the solenoid? Double check! If you do take the solenoid off and cycle it to see if the plunger works. Don't loose the parts.
The solenoid may be bad or shorted.
Have you manipulated the valve by-pass switch w/o power and water pumping?
Is the solenoid in while you are testing?
That might help us understand whats going on.
try switching the wiring around-possible backwards?
I must admit im getting stumped on this
Newty--
Yes power is to the solenoid. I removed it to see if it sucks in under power. when power is off, the plunger comes out.
Yes I worked the switch while the water is flowing. Remember, the water will only flow if I push the diaphram up with my finger. You can here the difference in the noise the pump makes. Once pushed the water goes into the pump and out the valve.
I have had the solenoid both in and out while testing the valve.
If funny, the pump I have is a lot stronger than my stck pump. I have the Tsunami 1200GPH pump.
Moombadaze. I will go and try switching the wires right now from the last test. I will be right back.
Alright now. I got it to work. The problem is that I had the pump in a Vertical position in the bucket. The was no pressure of water going into the pump as if it were sitting in the water. I placed the pump horizontal and the water started flowing. Now that problem is solved, the new problem. With the spring out, and solenoid off (no power), I still get a great flow of water. So I reinstalled the spring and powered the solenoid and yes the flow was a lot less. I think the spring needs to be there to put pressure against the diaphram to keep it closed so water will not enter while the boat is in motion. Now, I wonder if we cut a coil or two off the spring and still give the diphram pressure to keep it closed but less pressure when the pump is activated to allow the proper flow. What do you guys think?
Tazz,
Glad to hear problem is solved
I had my boat up on plane and had no water come out the valves(with spring removed),
Did you say you had a 1" valve on your system. I think that I might chage my hoses on the rear sacks to 1" If you hoses are 1", how did you remove the quick connect off the bag and change it from 3/4" to 1"?
I want to thank you and Newty for guiding me through this little problem that I encountered. Even though we have never met, it feels like we have known each other for several years. Thanks for your help.
Mark
Tazz, I did upgrade one valve so far to 1" and am running 1" hose from that valve to my surf ballast bag. If you do go with this you will need about 8-9 feet of hose. On page 3 of this thread i tried to get pictures showing all the parts needed. I am reusing the soleniod from the 3/4" valve--they are interchangeable, that way i did not have to splice any wireing.
I am going to try Newty's two pump conversion soon but first i want to locate some of those wireing connectors.
Moombadaze--
In my setup, I removed the single pump and added three separate pumps. One for each bag. Now I upgraded the intake from 3/4" to 1". Should I use the 3/4" valve or a 1" valve and then reduce it to 3/4" to go into the existing hoses?
I have a question, we're talking stricktly fill here correct? If so what is the diameter of the bottom scupper and have you all taken that into consideration or does it matter? Afterall aren't you regulated by the size of the input? If 3/4" is the intake then what does going 1" matter? Just asking ... :D
Glad to hear you got if figured out!
Razzman what ever diameter the intake to your pump is, is the diameter you want to go with. In my case and most likely in Tazz's is that you may want to upgrade to 1" or larger with multiple pumps. You may be starving the pumps that require 3/4" inlet if you have all three running off of one inlet.
In my case I spoke with my boss who is a physical engineer about sharing flow, the conversation quickly went way over my head :) He showed me on a chart what recommended flow through 3/4' should, be and what the pumps were rated to do and we (he) figured out I would be alright because the length of shared run of pipe was less than 4" then it split so there will be no loss of flow or starving of the pumps.
Tazz in your case I would think of going up in size of inlet because you are feeding 3 pumps. I would simply order a larger through hull, remove the old one and make the hole a little bigger. If I'm not mistaken your tsunami pumps are rated at a higher flow than the rule.
Was the manual valve open when the flow through the valve was occurring when it was supposed to be shut?
You may also have the wrong valve. I noticed there were several 3/4" valves at home depot and they all looked similar. I wonder if they behave any differently in this application.
Tazz, I had originally thought of removing a portion of the spring as well to aid in the flow, and thats when I found the no spring trick. It might work.
Tazz, When are you going to post up some pics of what you are doing? I'd like to see what your ideas are.
Newty, In my set up, I have 3 1" scuppers. The original was 3/4". I wanted more water flow so I went with 1". So now I have a scupper for each pump. The leaver was in the off position. If I flipped it up, then the water was flowing.
Here is the link
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=7138
So you cycled the valve without the spring during the water test and it still leaked by?
Ok I understand the pics now. I saw that post before but I guess I didn't realize thats what you were doing.
Yes but very little water came out. What I did was turned on the pump and then turned on the solenoid. The water started flowing when the solenoid was turned on. When off, a little water still came through when pump was on. I will lake test it when all the new valves are put in. I am going to use 1" valves. I need to pick up 1" hose barbs to finish install.
OK I just wanted to make sure I understood you right. I hope the 1" valves work better for you. Sounds like that system sill rip when you dialed in.
What are you going to do with the old rule pump?
Good question Newty. I'd like to buy that pump for my setup or trade for a boat buddy that I took of my trailer after three uses.
jeilers1--where in central Wa are you? my home town is Wenatchee
Tazz, Are you going to wire the soleniod on the valve and the fill pump to the same switch-so that both get power at the same time?
Moombadaze. The answer to that question is yes. Right now I disconnected one of the pump and using that switch to operate the solenoid. I would like to fing waterproof connectors to do this. I cut the old connectors of the old solenoids. I would like to make my own. Mak it into a why connector. One input for the pump and the other for the solenoid.
Jellers1 and Newty-- In regards to the pump, I have bad news. I had laid everything on the top deck. While moving all the stuff around, it fell off, hit the ground, and broke. It went into the garbage. Sorry.
Moombadaze have you tried filling you system completely since the mod? If so how did it work?
Newty- i hope to get on the lake tomorrow-weather permitting.
That Nick guy on wakeworld if i understood his question correctly-made me think that with the 2 in-pumps if they would overpower the springless valve and let water thru? let me clarify a little. Say you are only filling one bag up im wondering if one of the other valves would let water thru.