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helix,Quote:
Originally Posted by helix_rider
Good point on disconnecting the battery - I had not thought about the possibility of accidentally touching the positive terminal on the starter with your ratchet while the other end is on the block plug.
Al
Quote:
Originally Posted by futuredeadguy
Dead,
Good to hear that the directions were helpful. I think Moomba/Indmar recommends replacing the impeller every two years. It's cheap insurance against failure while on the water. I replaced mine even though the original still looked new. I now keep the old one on the boat in a ziploc bag as a spare so if the impeller ever lets go while I am on the water, I can replace it right then and there.
Al
All,
I edited the directions to include all the good additional info brought up by the forum (disconnecting the battery, winterizing your heater, the difference in the plugs, etc). Thanks for the input.
Al
If anyone has gone to the lengths that Cab has for the impeller (pictures in particular) and could post that would be awesome...that whole a picture is worth a thousand words is so true when we are talking mechanical workings, as I'm a neanderthal and need 'easy diagrams' lol. That's the only thing I've not done myself and will do in the spring when it comes time to get back on the water.
You guys who edited thie thread into a Word document, would you mind posting it? That would save me having to do it again.
Thanks,
Garn
GREAT POST!
Does anybody know if that muffler drain exists on a DD? I have DIY winterized now for the past two years and this is the first time I have heard of this drain. That muffler is way in the back under the rear ballast tanks in a DD and I'm curious if it has a drain plug like the one shown in the V-Drive photos.
Remove the plug underneath the muffler?
Sadly I hate to admit I could not figure this one out. How important is this step? What will happen if I dont do this step? I have a Moomba Outback Inboard with no Vdrive? Where is this plug can someone tell me and explain it to a total non mechanical dufus?
Thanks for these steps. I was not going to be able to winterize because I'm flat broke and this saved my moomba. Now if I can just find that plug!!!
Jon J & MoombaMaster,Quote:
Originally Posted by MoombaMaster
I don't know if the DD's have the muffler drain or not. I would think so. Just run your hand along the bottom of the muffler and see if you can feel it. It is on the very end on the port side on mine (see pic on page 1 of this post).
Al
I hope Cab dont mind but I put his instructions and pictures into a Microsoft Word file so that I could print it out. I then took it out to my boat with me and it made the process very simple. If anyone would like this file just let me know and I will email it to you. Thanks again Cab.
How important is it to remove the plugs on the V-drive unit, because I cannot get them to budge at all! It looks like they have never been touched. I got the hoses off the unit just didn't get the plugs pulled...
I would not think this would be a big deal. All that is in the top of the V-Drive is a single channel with a curved tube running through it. I would leave the hoses off and use a compressor or shop vac to get as much out as possible. I could not imagine there being much to crack in there. It is a farely open space inside the top of the unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by jclay5
Here is an exploded view of the Vdrive. It appears that there is not much in the upper water jacket.
Here is the link to the MUCH larger image.
http://www.pearson424.org/manuals/VD...Page17_jpg.htm
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...ven/vdrive.jpg
No problem at all, glad the instructions helped.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98outback
Al
do you have a shower or heater if sohaw did you winterize them with out antifreeze?. i drain every hing and used antifreeze. i used the shower ti pump my antifreeze in thanks gord
[QUOTE=JesseC;51274]Here is an exploded view of the Vdrive. It appears that there is not much in the upper water jacket.
Here is the link to the MUCH larger image.
http://www.pearson424.org/manuals/VD...Page17_jpg.htm
Thanks JesseeC I used a shop vac and sucked what little water was in there out so I should be all good.
After some searching we also found that link!
there's one thing that we found on our boat that's not in the photos.
the winterization crew left a hose with a clip on it randomly hanging from the back of the engine. does it connect to the quick disconnect hose?
thanks!
On my 08 OBV i have a single hose on the right hand side with a clip and a plug in the end just hanging. I think it is used to drain the oil. Might be the hose your talking about.
Cab - great post. Love the pictures (worth a thousand words!).
In Indmar's engine manual, they only mention about putting fogging oil in the throttle body - which should get to the cylinders/pistons. No mention of removing spark plugs and spraying into the cylinders directly. Any thoughts on why to spray directly into the cylinders via the spark plug holes if spraying into the throttle bottle should do the same?
This is awesome information. Thanks so much! I just bought an 08 LSV, and wouldn't ya know it, I've got about 1 month left before I need to winterize. I feel much better now about doing it myself, as I really didn't want to pay to have it done!
Did you change the V-drive oil at the same time as the Engine Oil?
The hose with the clip on it is the oil drain hose. It hangs from the back of the engine when not in use to keep it off the floor of the bilge area. The quick disconnect hoses are completely different - they have water running thru them. These hoses are the ones that need to be disconnected and drained during winterization.Quote:
Originally Posted by Le Bateau
Good question. I was told this by the dealer on my first boat along time ago and have always followed this recommendation. I guess it's just to make sure that the cylinder walls are adequately coated and that the fogging oil sprayed into the throttle body didn't get purged during the combustion process.Quote:
Originally Posted by dhickey
You're welcome. No, I changed the v-drive oil separately, during the recommended interval. I will probably change it again when I winterize this fall as it's been a couple years now.Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeg333
Hey Cab, one more question for you. Do you leave the impeller out for the winter, and then put a new one (if it's at the two year interval) or the old one back in during your "summarization"?
Yes, the owner's manual says to take it out, coat it with Vaseline, then store it in a sealed ziploc bag over the winter.
Thats what I though.t!! I just replaced the cover and will wait until next year to install. It took some serious effort to get it out (thanks for the advice about the vice grips), so I am kind of worried about getting it back in. Though the new Impeller came with some lubrication, so hopefully that helps!
Thanks Cab.
Great job Cab! Thanks for that.
BTW I don't winterize mine, and I have a drysuit so if you get the itch call me!
CAB - I know you have an 06 LSV. For 08 and newer boats with a dripless shaft, is there anything you need to do for winterization?
After I remove the water pump hoses, I spray some silicone into the impeller through the hose fittings. Then, when I bump the engine after spraying fogging oil into the cylinders, that helps coat the impeller and inside of the housing with the silicone which makes removal easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeg333
Thanks Ryan, I'll keep that in mind. Do you keep your boat in a heated garage?Quote:
Originally Posted by newty
Good question. You can disconnect the hose but I don't know how you would get the water out of the seal. Suggest you call the dealer then let us all know :)Quote:
Originally Posted by dhickey
Its not heated but the water heater and HVAC is in the gararge and its never gotten below 45 degrees.
I was thinking the same thing about the dripless packing cooling water line. I didn't think there would be much that would come out of the blue pex line, but you never know. I might do it just in case, but let us know what you find out, dhickey!
I've also got another question about Spark Plugs. I replaced mine with new while doing winterization, but was reading the Indmar manual and it says to put new ones in when you summerize it. Would it matter one way or the other? Would it be better to leave the old in over the winter, and then throw new ones in? I thought about putting the new ones in after I burnt all the fogging oil out of the engine, but I can't imagine it's that hard on plugs. But, I guess you never know...
I winterized with anti-freeze last season. Seemed to work just fine, had no problems this year. The procedure is really simple. Here's a list of what you need.
1. 5 gallons of biodegradable anti-freeze. I used -50F.
2. A cheap plastic bin that is wide enough to catch the anti-freeze coming from both exhaust outlets.
3. A fat sac pump.
Place the bin underneath the exhaust outlets and dump your anti-freeze into the bin. Disconnect your water intake beneath and to the right of your V-drive unit. Place the fat sac pump into the anti-freeze connecting the other end into the water intake hose that you just disconnected. Turn on the pump and make sure it is pumping anti-freeze into the intake. Now start your engine and let it run for about 5-10 minutes or until operating temps. The anti-freeze will make a mess coming out of the exhaust, just keep checking on it to make sure it's flowing into the plastic bin. I found it easier to disconnect the wakeplate arms so the antifreeze flows down instead of around the plate. After you're at operating temps, you're done. The antifreeze replaced the water. For peace of mind you can loosen up a few drain plugs to make sure there's antifreeze in the motor. To dewinterize just drop the boat in the lake and start.
Did you find out any information on the dripless packing? I meant to disconnect where the blue cooling water line went into the seal before I put the boat away, but remembered last night that I forgot to do it. I won't be able to get up to the storage place until hopefully this weekend, but I was curious if you found anything out about the need to winterize that.
Let me know if you could!
I have the exact same storage arrangement but I still winterize it. Don't want to take any chances like the heater going out while we are on vacation and it gets really cold. A perfect storm, I know, but it's still a possibility. Plus I don't ride between about now and spring anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by newty
I thought you were going to call the dealer and let us all know??Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeg333
I would think the water would just drain out the seal where the shaft exits the hull. But you're the one that has the dripless seal so you should find out for sure :)
Hey guys I'm was starting my winterization process today and was disconnecting the exhaust manifold hoses and noticed there was a BLUE hose that was T'ed into it. I've got a 2009 Supra w/ the 325 Hp Assault. Anyone know what this is? I tried to follow it but could see where it ended up.
Jon J & MoombaMaster
Did you guys ever find out if the Direct Drives have the Exhaust Manifold plug that needs to be removed? What a great Post.............. Thanks for all your effort ......:D
Nah, Dhickey was going to call the dealership and let us know, I thought.
I've got an 08 LSV, and the blue cooling line runs to the dripless packing. I can't recall off the top of my head if it comes from the manifold hoses or not, but I know that's where it ends. I would imagine that the blue line you're talking about is the same line - dripless packing cooling water. That was the question I had was if it needed to be drained at all. I meant to disconnect mine before I put it away, but forgot.
I think Cab is probably right though. I would think the water in that cooling line, once the pressure of the cooling system is released during winterizing, would just draing out thru the dripless packing gland. I can't say for sure though!
I called the dealer. They use the anti-freeze method for winterization (vs just draining) so they believe they have it covered. I asked about if you were just to drain and the response was "I guess you could disconnect the hose and blow some air in there". Not very convincing. I also asked about the name of the manufacturer and they did not know - "We just order the parts through SC". Was hoping then I could contact the manufacturer. Also emailed SC - no reponse.
water def drains out the dripless seal. the line on mine empties every time I raise the boat in the lift.
Some of you have asked for just the text of the winterizing instructions so here it is.
Winterizing Instructions for 2006 Moomba Mobius LSV
(other years and models may vary)
A. Put Sta-Bil in fuel, 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons so 16 ounces for a full tank (40 gallons).
B. Run the boat on a body of water for at least 10-15 minutes to get the engine oil nice and hot. Drive it back on the trailer and with the engine still running, remove the spark arrester (held in place by a large hose clamp). Spray 4-6 ounces of fogging oil into the throttle body then shut off engine immediately. Replace flame arrester.
C. Let the boat sit 5 - 10 minutes to let the oil cool a little. Drain/Change the oil and oil filter (I use a Fram PH30 filter and Shell Rotella T 15W40, crankcase capacity is 5.5 quarts including filter). I did this at the boat ramp parking lot as it’s a 30 minute drive back to the house and the oil would cool off too much by then. Best method I found is to use a fluid extractor (Pela 6000 worked great for me) and suck it out of the oil drain hose, not the dipstick tube. This way, you know you are sucking it out of the low point of the oil pan since the oil drain hose is attached to the oil pan where the oil pan drain plug would normally be.
D. Drain all water from the block and hoses as follows: (note that for the purpose of this write up, aft is the end of the engine closest to the transom of the boat and fore is the end closest to the bow).
From port side of engine:
1) Separate the exhaust manifold hoses by separating the hose fitting. The two hoses come together at the fore end of the engine, on the port side. Disconnecting the two hoses drains the two manifolds.
2) Remove the port engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
3) Remove the plug underneath the muffler, on the port side using a 3/8” socket. Use a container to catch the water so it doesn’t drain onto the carpet.
4) Disconnect the bottom of the "J" hose where it connects to the water recirc pump.
From the starboard side of the engine:
5) Remove the starboard engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
6) Disconnect and drain the two hoses attached to the water pump which is attached to the main pulley on the aft end of the engine. Use a 5/16” nut driver on the hose clamps.
7) Remove the impeller from the water pump using a 5/16” nut driver to remove the impeller housing cover. Access to impeller is improved if you remove the small, fixed engine access cover towards the back of the boat, on the starboard side. Use needle nose vise grips to carefully remove impeller. Stick one jaw between the impeller blades and the other into the middle of the impeller, all the way in. Carefully pull out impeller. I like using vise grip needle nose pliers because the jaws stay parallel and therefore, grab better. Coat the impeller with Vaseline and put it in an airtight (ziplock) bag. If the impeller is two years old, replace it with a new one. It’s a Johnson Pump impeller, part # 09-812B-1. Be careful not to overtighten the impeller cover screws as they are fairly soft.
From the v-drive:
8) Remove the two (2) plugs on the v-drive unit, one on the front on the port side, the other on the rear on the starboard side. Both plugs are pretty high up on the v-drive housing. A 7/16” closed end wrench fits perfectly on the square head plug. The front is a vent plug and you might not get any water out of it.
9) Remove and drain the water intake hose at the v-drive.
10) Drain the ballast system as follows:
(a) Disconnect and drain the hoses at the solenoids using the quick disconnects on the hoses. Watch for rubber o-rings and make sure they don’t fall out.
(b) Remove water strainer and drain. Clean strainer if dirty. Be careful when putting the strainer it has to properly seat on the top and on the bottom. Don’t leave this to chance – look at the top of the stainer when screwing it back on to make sure it lines up correctly.
(c) Disconnect and drain the bags, then put one capful of bleach in them to prevent mold.
E) Remove each spark plug and spray fogging oil into each cylinder for about 2 – 3 seconds. Spray a little fogging oil on the spark plug hole threads. With all the spark plugs still out, bump the starter for 1 second to evenly coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. Reinstall the spark plugs. You should be able to turn them by hand all the way until they seat. Tighten with a ratchet and spark plug socket.
I leave the hoses disconnected and the drain plugs out over the winter. I put a little grease on the threads on the block and the v-drive unit as they will become rusty over the winter and the plugs will be difficult to install in the spring if you don’t.
If you drain the water with the boat in your garage, be aware that enough water is drained out of the block and hoses that the bilge pump will probably kick on.
Al,
Thank you for the text version.
For people with a heater i have included pictures below.
NOTE: This is from a 08 OBV
NOTE: The first picture the bottom of the picture is to the bow. The Second two pictures are the same in that the left side of the picture goes to the bow of the boat.
The heater has two hoses
The first hose is connected to the block right next to the dip stick. Just undo the hose clamp twist and pull. WARNING: If the block is hot then hot water will come out. You can see the hose clamp in the first picture by looking down the dip stick. http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_7774.jpg
The second hose is in the back of the engine (Closest part of the engine to the swim platform). It is the hose going from the middle bottom of the picture too about center of the picture. It is the same size hose as the first one. It is also a hose clamp so just undo the hose clamp, twist and pull.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_7775.jpg
The last picture below is the hoses coming from the bow of the boat. They are the two hoses at the bottom of the picture that are zip tied together. The first hose comes up in about 3/4 of the way to the right of the picture.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/IMG_7777.jpg
You can take your mouth and blow air into one of the hoses until all the water is out.
Awesome work.
I was reviewing my notes that I made when I brought my boat. The dealer and I did the water drain since I brought the boat in the winter and we did a sea run. The only additional item that I had in my notes was to drain what he called the "J" hose. You can see it in the second picture up. It is between the thermostat housing and the lower part of the engine water pump(not fresh water pump). We disconnected from the pump end and drained.
Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)
good addition , i have always disconnected the j hose, alot of water comes out of here, plus i was amazed how much water comes out the muffler on my v driveQuote:
Originally Posted by mcdye
thanks for the great pics and posts