My 2016 Mojo doesn't have a strainer for the ballast intakes, so you are probably good.
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My 2016 Mojo doesn't have a strainer for the ballast intakes, so you are probably good.
Each year raptor is a little different, there should be a crossover hose with a brass fitting, be sure to disconnect and let drain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidder522
You might also have a transmission drain hose with a blue plug. My 2018 had one, but my 2021 does not.
There isn’t a strainer for the ballast.
Heater is on the closed loop cooling system.
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Ballast pumps will drain automatically....they are higher than the bags and in floor tank. I remove my rear bags just to be safe. I also disconnect the hose for my bow bag once I use the pumps to drain as much as possible.
2016
2 blue plugs
V-drive plug directly under the prop coupler
Heat exchanger plug behind the oil filter
Open the raw water pump cover - leave open until spring and change impeller then
Manifold crossover hose OR brass plugs - one on the bottom of each exhaust manifold close to the v-drive (my 2015 has plugs not a hose)
Heater loop is closed loop don't need to worry about it.
Fuel stabilizer and fill the tank to avoid condensation
I leave the center drain open after every trip to the lake and all winter. Allows any liquid that drains to exit the hull.
Last year it took about 35 minutes to winterize. The other 2.5hrs were fluids/filter and spark plugs.
Awesome. Thanks.
My manifold cross over hose has a blue plug.
That and the blue plug on the raw water/transmission cooler is blue.
2 plugs. One on vdrive and one on heat exchanger.
So I only have 2 blue plugs and 2 threaded plugs.
Am I missing another blue plug? My owners manual shows 4 drain points. If this is the case, it is the easiest winterization I have had in 10 years!!!
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2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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Your diagram....
A is a blue plug
B is a metal plug/anode combo
C is a blue plug OR separate brass plugs OR a garden hose connection you open
V-drive is a large 1" socket brass plug/anode combo
Again, I remove the cover on my raw water pump.
Done. You can use an air compressor to lightly blow out water but they all drain pretty good.
Perfect. That’s what I thought!!
Just saved me $650 to get it done at our local marina.
2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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Ok. Well the Craz is all winterized. I made a spreadsheet and check list to follow for this new to me process but I feel like it went pretty good.
Fuel stabilizer.
Full tank of premium
New Wix oil filter
5W-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic.
Removed vdrive plug/anode
Removed removed blue manifold plug
Removed heat exchanger blue plug
Removed transmission cooler plug/anode
Removed impeller housing plate
Removed batteries and put on battery tenders.
Removed rear bags
Blew air through ballast hoses
Removed both boat drain plugs.
All in about 3 hours but removing plugs was 30 minutes.
If I can find a way to share the checklist I’ll post it.
Now the hard part is not stressing over a Canadian winter that I did it right!!!
Richard
2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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Can someone let me know the part number for the raw water impeller. I have 2 new ones that were for the LSV. Looks the same but just wondering.
Thanks.
Richard.
2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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Johnson Pump 09-812B-1 F6
GM and Ford all use the same numbers
Thank you. So they haven’t changed in 20 years??
2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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This is awesome. Does anybody have a preference on the type or brand of fuel stablizer they use or does it matter?
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Concentrate - Rejuvenate & Stabilize Old Gasoline, Cure Ethanol Problems, Improve MPG, Reduce Emissions, Increase Horsepower https://a.co/d/egFubOVQuote:
Originally Posted by Buckeye
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I have always used sta-bil and it has done good for me. Treat my generator, lawn equipment, and boat with it with no issues starting in spring.
I use what Larry uses.
Treat everything with it without issues.
I used to use SeaFoam also and never had issues either.
Sta-bil for me. I have never had an issue in the spring with fuel or start up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxmark4
2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz
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I wouldn’t overthink fuel stabilizers too much.
I recall Indmar recommends Lucas stabilizer.
But one thing is, make sure it’s a stabilizer and not just a cleaner or water treatment.
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I agree with @larry
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I use Seafoam and Mercury Marine #3 fuel stabilizer. Never had an issue with any boat, sled, lawn equipment. I just mix some in a one gallon can with gas and put it in and run around the lake.
Another “is this reallly it!” question.
2019 Makai with 400
I have 3 blue plugs
1. Transmission
2. Directly under cylindrical heat exchanger
3. On a line near heat exchanger
Beyond the 3 plugs there is a hose near the transmission with a garden hose fitting that had to be disconnected.
I will loosen the cover for the raw water pump impeller, but change in the spring.
Am I missing anything? I boat only fresh water lakes so I am not taking any anodes out. BTW the plugs near the heat exchanger are quite a reach, how do you all do it? Lay on the motor like I did or do you take the side wall out?
I will change oil, trans, Vdrive fluids another day and replace impeller in the spring.
Anyone have part numbers for impeller? Also I have the g6 ballast system, thinking about changing those impellers in the spring - anyone have a part number for those?
Thanks in advance!
There is a brass garden hose connector on top of the V drive and technically you should undo your water pump housing lid, but honestly, no water ever sits in the pump housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Max20
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It is really that simple.
I usually pull the impeller and let it sit with the cover off and impeller out all winter.
Pulling the side walls is to only way to reach the front of the engine.
I have an older boat so I pull my rear bags and drain but this is also so I don't stand on them doing the other work.
Oil extractor is your friend. Take a 1/4 air fitting, screw it on the oil drain hose, attach to oil extractor line and pump 100% of it out.
Pulled the drain plugs yesterday and I am
Going to bitch about the heat exchanger plug on a Gen 3 SA.
There is no easy way to reach it, despite it being so easy to see through the surf locker.
Sumabitch!!!!
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Larry, don't feel bad for being angry. My 2015 Mojo exchanger plug is behind my oil filter. What a PITA!.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
To make matters worse I have Plugs in my manifolds not a hose connection. Of course one of the brass plugs stripped on the head..got it out with vise grips but just little things that drive you crazy.
Thanks everyone - I had plenty to do today and as much as I would like to say I’ll get all the fluids changed it will likely be after the winter’s nap. It’s hunting season…lol
Not able to access via the skim board locker?Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
Well maybe if my arm was a foot longer lol, but yeah, can’t reach it through the surf locker. But it’s right there visually, just out of reach.Quote:
Originally Posted by MJHSupra
I have to crawl into the starboard side storage locker, with engine dividers, rear panel and surf locker engine cover removed.
Reaching with my left arm/hand around and under plumbing blindly finding the blue wing nut. Then having nearly zero leverage to spin it.
Even harder to put the plug back in as my range of motion blindly trying to thread it in.
The Gen2 SA was a bit easier due to the subfloor being deeper in boat by about a foot.
Been thinking about fabricating an extension hose to install making winterization eaaier, it will suck to install, but once installed, life will be easier.
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I was telling someone about that over the weekend. Not sure why that is not standard from the factory. Like the extra-length on the oil drain hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
If you are not careful it makes your arm look like you got into a cat-fight with all the scratches from all the contorting under there.
Cat fight is an understatement….lolQuote:
Originally Posted by MJHSupra
Indmar has made drain point extension hoses on the raptors before. I had one on my 2018 transmission, but now my 2021 transmission hose connects to the V drive and both drain using thd v drive plug.
I would actually do an extension hose on both starboard drain points.
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Yes! Just get one of the pump style ones on Amazon for $70 and mount up one of those air fittings. I tried an electric pump and what a messy pain in the ass. The hand pump ones with the catch container are so much easier. I went around sucking the oil out of everything after the boat! Golf cart, snowmobile, mower, Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
I drained the plugs, reinstalled, ran 3 gallons of antifreeze through, then redrained plugs and left out. Probably overkill, but sleep better.
I do. For $15 and 10 minutes of time it's good cheap insurance.
I run it up to temp. Remove all the plugs and reinstall . Hookup a pump and pump antifreeze through the engine till it comes out pink. I let it sit for 30 minutes then I remove all the drains again. About 10 minutes of active easy work.
I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.
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The closed loop cooling is its own antifreeze loop. No need at all to run up to temp on the raw water side. No thermostat on this open loop. Fake-a-Lake to exhaust catch tray. Should take about 2 minutes and you are done. Truthfully in Ohio I don't do it since mine doesn't sit outside. My old I/O had to have antifreeze ran through it or bad things happened.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarter20
You are all good since it's two different systems. The debate happens each year on running antifreeze vs not-running antifreeze. Then there are some that run antifreeze and drain it and some that leave it in during the winter months. My theory is whatever makes you sleep better at night.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarter20
A newer one I read on social media was to just hook up the antifreeze to run through the system without draining the water first. I'm not sure of going to the time and trouble if running antifreeze if it would just be diluted with existing water in system. I guess the theory is new liquid pushes out the old liquid, but oh well, not how I would proceed.
This is too risky in my opinion. If you spend the effort to winterize, drain the water first, then use or don't use antifreeze depending on preference. I always antifreeze.Quote:
Originally Posted by MJHSupra
I will just add that marine antifreeze varies and is complicated as far a freeze point and burst point as well as made for RV plumbing or Engine winterization, they are not all the same or universal.
Let’s just say I have done it both ways on a raptor and currently pull the plugs, let it drain and put plugs back in, it really is that easy.
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100% . . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden
Any tips or tricks to get to the blue plug on the heat exchanger?
No matter how hard I tried I could not reach it through the storage locker with the panel removed.
I had to once again remove the ski locker on our 17 Supra to get to it, which adds another step.
Thoughts on always draining the transmission cooler?
Otherwise it is definitely a simple process to drain.
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Ask your 7 foot friend with skinny arms to help you.Quote:
Originally Posted by eder10986
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