Garage at the back of the house, with a big shop just behind the two bays on the left.
Attachment 30047
Printable View
Garage at the back of the house, with a big shop just behind the two bays on the left.
Attachment 30047
Yeah man, just cut half that wall out on the last bay. You could also have a door company look at modifications to the last bay door width. You may have enough space to widen it just enough to get in without taking off the guide poles. That would be an awesome permanent solution. Then when you are ready for a longer boat, because you suddenly realize your family just wants to take way to much extra stuff to the lake, you are set! [emoji38]
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
No negativity was intended in the information I shared. Just facts to help you plan.
Front hitch is a nice option for more precise backing of the trailer.
Not available for all trucks but most.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think ill just take the whole wall out, which will make a huge garage. Cutting down half the wall would look wierd on the inside, and the only thing remaning would be a giant double door ... lol.
I have thought about seeing if possible to turn that last bay into a 10x8... But cutting the outside of the house is something I am hoping to avoid. cutting that hole and putting in a new garage door would be pricey.
I do have to say if it was my house/boat purchase, I would look hard at doing this if it was lap siding. stucco or brick, I'd probably shy away due to cost and something I couldn't or wouldn't want to do myself. lap is a piece of cake to modify and framing is easy. foundation would be the hardest part to cut away but a good sawcutter would take it on for a couple benjamins.
the one downside not knowing the front elevation of your pad would be having 3 doors that are not consistent. some houses would look ok, some would look silly from the street with an odd door. all personal preference.
I've seen larry's front hitch scenario in action and it's a viable solution but for us, threading a large boat into a space that tight, not sure that would afford enough adjustments as it's going in. hand dolly-no matter the propulsion-will afford more flexibility in a shorter space.
I may call around and see if this is possible. Our house is basic wood construction with horizontal siding. I don't know much about carpentry, so it SEEMS like a bigger deal than maybe it is. Our garage is around the back of the house totally invisible from anywhere unless you go around to the back of the house. It may look kinda weird with one of the doors wider than the other, but as long as the door's styles matched, I don't think it would bea big deal. My truck currently goes in the 3rd bay and it doesn't fit with the tow mirrors out. I think 9' doors are too small by default. I think all doors should be 10x9 :D
I think you can totally do what you are wanting with a dolly. I wouldn't let anything stop me in you position. If you want the boat then make it happen. That being said does your garage have a lip leading in to it or is it level all the way in? I know most of ours down here have an 1-1/2" tall lip oin the front of them.
Can you explain why? I asked our structural inspector and foundation inspector and neither could give me a reason beyond water and pest penetration.
The house we just bought has a 20 degree slope to the driveway away from the house, so renders water penetration idea useless and curb that is pure annoyance.
Making my new SA build come true!!!
In the northern states, it keeps out wind, blowing snow, pest, and rain. The water won't run up hill into the garage but when it is falling sideways it can easy blow through the rubber seal at the bottom of the door. Mine in my garage and my barn are only 3/4" but it does that same thing. The bigger lips are mostly just because of the framing work from the contractor. In Texas, I could imagine sand and dust being a large issue also.
As for the OP, I would focus on getting the wall down so the boat fits, working out a tow vehicle, and most important, getting a build slot. Then figure it all out later. The dolly (manual or electric) will work for a season or 2. Then decide if cutting on the house is necessary.
Boat ownership is a slippery slope of all these things you never realized you needed... the "life upgrade" cost doesn't typically get layered on top of the boat purchase!
To be honest, getting a wider and taller door framed from the get go will save you massive headaches in the long run. While it sounds fun dollying your boat + trailer around and spending 45 mins fitting through with less than an inch of clearance, it will be the last thing you want to do after you are exhausted after spending a weekend on the water drinking beer and surfing.
Minimize risk for house / boat / human injury and pull the trigger on a new door :cool:
My 8' door debacle was so painful because
1) I was already financially stretching to buy the boat
and
2) I had already cut up my garage and put in an 8' door (in place of the 7' door that was there). It took some custom work to get the full 8' clearance, then it was wrong by about 2 inches!
Here is a time lapse of what it took me to get the boat out every weekend that first summer:
https://www.facebook.com/12904241/vi...5882253673410/
- Pull boat out with 8 or 10" drop hitch and deflated tires
- start inflating tires - I bought an inflator for use with the air compressor that would auto stop at a set pressure
- while tires are inflating - stopping to switch the air chuck to the next tire as needed - unfold tower, install board racks, install trailer guide posts, load life jackets, boards, and whatever else we removed last week.
- Once tires were inflated, chock wheels, uncouple from truck, swap drop hitches (using a floor jack because the tongue jack couldn't go low enough), and re-couple. Couplers were a different length and I was on a hill, so it took readjustment from the truck.
I got it down to about 25 minutes or sweat and cussing. I only hit the garage once with the rub rail at about the widest part of the boat.
My storage unit is $100/month and in the same industrial park as my office. It was a no brainer for me! I'll be picking her up on my way out of work this evening for prep to hit the road at quitting time tomorrow!
This was my result after storing our first boat in the garage our first winter with it.
Next winter it went into storage with all the gear we were keeping in the garage.
After selling that boat and getting our last SA at the very end of season, the only storage we could find was a concierge storage facility. I’d call them up the day before and they would have the boat parked and ready next morning. They had an Indmar certified boat mechanic and shop facility. For a fee, they would completely ready your boat with fuel, ice your cooler, and even shop for your beer, drinks, and food. It was pretty baller, but I never used it. Knowing my boat was in a climate controlled and secure facility made me feel secure, and I had my driveway and curb clear.
Making my new SA build come true!!!
I had to deal with blowing wind and snow in our last house that had no lip/curb in the garage and had no issues. Door faced the prevailing wind, and I would get every leaf from my neighbors tree, but no leakage. Same with the bay doors at my work. Rarely ever an issue with Sierra storms, dust, or pests.
Making my new SA build come true!!!
I understand completely. Did not say it was good reasoning, just the only reasoning there is.
My house garage faces west and that is the direction every storm comes from. IN the winter the crops are removed and I have 0 cover or wind block. I have never had water in the garage but I have had water inside but stopped at the lip. Snow on the other hand seems to not care. Some how no matter what I try, it makes it through the rubber bumper on the bottom of my barn door. However, it is insulated and heated so again I have water that the bump keeps contained until it drains out on its own. Every entrance I have is sloped away from the house also, but not 20*. Again, mine are not 1.5" but only 3/4".
man. you're sure wanting to spend the OP's money :)
I would assume that will not be an option since it's an existing house and that kind of mod would run well north of 20k as a remodel IF the roofline doesn't need to be touched. mess with trusses and cost goes up exponentially. . going from a 9ft to 10ft door keeping the height at 8ft which already fits is still a chunk but much more feasable when compared to the cost of a good trailer mover and 1 trip to the dr for a back spasm.
will be interesting to see next year what the OP does. that Kaiyen is a GREAT boat.....
I'm not sure I can go taller, myself. The garage has 9 foot ceilings, so there is only 12" between the top of the garage door and the cieling, and that's occupied by the track for the door opener. Are there track systems that could go higher? I wonder.
Yes they make high rise tracks for overhead doors that hug the ceiling and then you can use a wall mounted opener like this
LiftMaster 8500 Wall Mount Garage Door Opener Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUQ616O...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Liftmaster and Chamberlain both have side mounts drives that also deadbolts the roller track. Pretty cool and really stout.
So some good news out of all this crazy stuff... confirmed with my dad (a contractor house builder) that the backwall of my garage is NOT a load bearing wall. WOOO.. so knocking it down wont cost me anything more than some drywall, mud, and paint. I think it will come down, and ill do the hand cart for one season through the 9x8 and see how it works. If it seems to laborious, I can widen the door a foot for season 2. Off to the boat dealership next week.
That’s amazing. I felt so bad when It looked like I had played a part in killing your dream. You are going to love your new Moomba. My family has so many great memories on the lake. Welcome to the skiers choice family.
Personally I'd skip the hand truck and save it for a bigger door. In the mean time line up your truck and trailer with the garage bay and back it in. The visibility with a hand truck sucks, best bet is lines on the floor if you go that route. The mirrors on your truck are in the perfect location to see your side clearance if you have it all in line. I keep the trailer tight to the driver's side door opening as it's easier to see and gives more clearance to the side that is tougher to see. I put a 101" trailer in a 107" door opening daily for years. My boat goes in a 107" door and I have to come into it around a corner so I'm blind on the passenger side mirror.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
It is $3,600 but still less expensive than all the house remodeling ideas. And you will meet plenty of new friends when they all wonder WTH you have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Oic-VknJ2E
It can tow a 9,000# trailer around. I would use it around the yard for many other things also: firewood, mulch, wife's landscaping plants. Just hook up the cart and let this thing pull it around instead of my back. Kids might even help work!!!
.......and problem solved! That thing is sweet!!! I want one and don't even need it.
Holdmybeer, that might be the best idea I have ever seen. Had a stupid ear to ear grin watching the video. My wife had to ask what I was watching lol. I’m getting one!
that thing is pretty badass. honestly the OP is going to be that cost in a new door/framing and any clean up labor. I'd buy that before cutting up the house and IF ever sell the house or boat, recoup part of the cost out of that thing as he won't recoup ANY of the remodel costs for a slightly wider door at house sale....
I was just thinking that thing should be called "The Trailer Thruster". Also just came across this video. Was this posted by our same Holdmybeer?
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...31d9777773.jpg
Unfortunately, I will never be that "awesome". And no I am not that guy.
As a person that has done my fair share of street racing, doing it in daylight on a busy road is stupid.
As an Electrical Engineer (like many of my fellow engineers on this site), racing a dual motor eV is the dumbest thing you can do unless you have 2x the HP of the eV.
Literally will never win unless it runs out of charge.