[QUOTE=Shoebox;353624]If I could find an Ecoboost setup
Found this..... https://www.ebay.com/i/383523353963?...EaAg7kEALw_wcB
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[QUOTE=Shoebox;353624]If I could find an Ecoboost setup
Found this..... https://www.ebay.com/i/383523353963?...EaAg7kEALw_wcB
I second this. Granted I've never been a car driver and have driven trucks my entire life, pre-COVID I would daily my '17 F250. No stink and no clatter....I took my mom for a drive once (remote started while we were in house) and she didn't even know it was running it was so quiet once we got in. Adding DEF happens so infrequently it's not that big of a deal.
The older leaf-sprung SuperDuty's did ride a little rougher but I think in 2012 or 2013 they started putting coil springs up front and the handling became much better.
I have broken IFS half shafts in 1/2 ton trucks before, made the switch to 3/4 ton with solid front axle and haven't looked back.
If my wife wasn't up for a new ride this year I'd trade in my '17 for a '20 with the Tremor package...serious beast.
All the hand wringing about the OEM F-150 hitches not matching truck capacity is a bummer but I hardly ever see F-150s towing large loads...kinda like how I rarely see dirty Raptors.
I'm not giving Ford a pass because the hitch rating should match the truck. I'm guessing the beancounters decided the heavy 1/2 ton drivers were in the small minority and would be versed enough to read labels.
I don't think you have the best selling truck line for 32 years without knowing your customers and how the vast majority will use the vehicles.
I've heard nothing but good things about the 7.3L Godzilla gasser so you could easily build a stout 3/4 ton DD without swallowing the $10K upcharge for the PSD.
Towing the heavier wake boats (Supras, bu’s,Centurion,Nautique, MC)with a 1/2ton is truly a unique territory.
Doable, but check your gear is all.
I am due for a new truck next spring, I will take a look at the F250, maybe I am being unfair in my 3/4 ton critique. I have owned 2 3/4 tons before and maybe left a bad taste.
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My daily is a lifted F250 diesel. Bought it new in ‘15 just the way I wanted it and just rolled 100k on the clock. When it was time for tires at 65k I considered trading for a new one but MAN these things are expensive! I decided to keep it and have not regretted it.
2 years ago to get a new lariat like I have now was just a tick over $70k. Today they’re a tick over $75k. I remember buying my first new diesel in 2004 was around $40k....hate to think of what it’s going to cost in 5 more years
A large portion of that cost increase is rate of inflation, $40k in 2004 is the same as $55k in 2020, the additional $20k is increased content, how much HP and torque increase from 2004 to 2020? Not to mention overall increase in comfort, luxury, performance and the often forgotten safety.
1/2 tons from 2004 to 2020 are really about the same price when adjusted for inflation and a 2020 come with far more content and performance for the $$$.
If your rate of income does not outpace rate of inflation, then yes trucks are more expensive as your buying power is losing to inflation.
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OK, so I've been doing some research on the meaning of the weight limits In our trucks and trailer hitches. How they achieve the weight capacities they do. I looked at my hitch again and it states 6k# trailer weight and 600 # tongue weight. Which increases to 13200# trailer and ~ 1200# tougue with the use of a weight distribution hitch. And its all a story about leverage and torque.
I looked at several videos and articles and this video provided the best explanation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCgRiVNaXFc
The important take away after all my research is that the WDH DOES NOT reduce the trailer toungue weight. What it does is apply torque to distribute downward force onto the front axles. But the tongue weight remains THE SAME!
The concern is not about hitch failure, its about lifting the front of the truck and loosing traction at the front wheels which becomes a safety issue with higher speed sharper turns such as an evasive maneuver. There is also uneven wear of the brakes and other axle components due to the uneven distribution of weight.
This makes sense since the WDH is not attached at any point of the vehicles frame. So it cannot possibly take weight off the hitch. Physically not possible, unless you suspend the laws of physics on your truck.
So there, I am not worried about my hitch failing, but I am worried about other component wear and failure and loss of control of the truck.
Not sure that makes it any better.
The other problem is, as I see it, the WDH is designed to fit the triangular front of the camper trailer whereas our trailers have a long tongue. So, unless there is one designed for our trailers that I could not find, we do not have the option of a WDH.
Most WDH don’t allow for backing up.
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I would cut away the factory Class III tow package and install all class IV hitch, draw bar and ball. That is what I did to my F150. https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....Vehicle/page30
Will the factory hitch work, yes.
WDH is not a boat trailer option.
Is $200 and 30-45 min worth peace of mind towing a $150k boat? yes
Will insurance cover a failed factory hitch knowingly over the hitch tag limit? UNKNOWN
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I’ve felt the hardest part is finding a 2” ball, and adjustable one at that, able to handle these boats. Even all B&W 2” adjustable hitches are only 7k. Every brick and mortar chain has weak sauce 2” hitches. Recently had to resort to using a rated for 5k hitch for a short tow until my online purchase came in because of the weak brick and mortar selection (despite living in truck country) because my new truck sits so much higher.
I suspect lots of folks using underrated hitches... hell even I did and I was trying as most likely don’t care.
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Will these work for you?
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Drop_Hitch.aspx
B&W has 10k# adjustables
https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/pro...ble-ball-mount
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Those aluminum ones will work, just so-so reviews though. The B&W like I said is only rated to 7500lbs with the 2" ball, which is unfortunate as I really think it is a slick system and would be my choice. Instead just ordered the curt adjustable, which is rated at 10k for the 2".
This is what I ended up doing last year when I realized my B&W was cutting it close. The Curt works great and I ended up just leaving my rock tamers on it and leaving it with the boat at the storage unit as it is the only thing that I dont use my B&W for.
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This is what I get out of this thread:
Ford hitches don't match the tow rating of the truck so you have to use a weight distributing hitch but weight distributing hitches don't work with boat trailers so you have to use your Ford without a weight distributing hitch which means you can't use your Ford to tow most modern wekeboats unless you remove the stock hitch and upgrade.
Did I summarize correctly?
Technically.
Also can’t really remove factory hitch, it’s part of the bumper assy. But curt Makes one that fits around it.
Or you can cut part of the factory hitch off and Curt makes a hitch for that.
Clear as mud.
Maybe Ford has it figured out on the new gen
F150 lol.
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You almost have it right. The factory hitch is rated for the full 13200lbs, even without the WDH. What the WDH does is distribute some downforce onto the front axle to prevent loss of traction from front tires and possible loss of control of vehicle. That is the problem, not hitch failure. The truck is like a teeter totter with the fulcrum at the rear axle. Too much downforce on the hitch lifts the front of truck, hence losing traction at the front wheels. The WDH DOES NOT remove weight from the hitch, that is impossible since it does not attach anywhere on the frame. It uses torsion bars to produce a torque that keeps the hitch and truck level, under enormous tension, if installed correctly, hence distributing weight along the truck, but downforce on hitch is the same. Adding a more heavy duty hitch will do nothing unless you somehow attach it forward on the truck frame, meaning in front of rear axle, which is not possible.
Moral of story, since we cannot use a WDH because of the design of our trailers, when driving, be mindfull of road conditions, wet roads, rain, you can lose traction with a sharper turn or evasive maneuver, or hydroplane easier.
A larger truck like a F350 or a larger diesel GMC 3500 will be much better because its a heavier truck, much more weight up front from much heavier engine and tranny compared to the smaller lighter block of a v6 on a F150 ecoboost, or even the smaller 2.5 ltr ecoboost.
There is also the issue of uneven wear of tires, brakes, brake discs, rear axle and other components in the rear due to the uneven weight. It is dangerous if one is not cognizant of this issue. I drove 1.5 hrs in the rain on sunday night anfter a day in the lake and was going no faster than 55-60. Wife gets anxie until I explain the whole WDH and hitch/trailering issue. THen she was OK.
If you can find a sold shank ball mount that has a 1-1/4" hole a 2" ball to match it, they are rated to 10K. I get them locally at Atwoods or Tractor Supply. They are not adjustable though.