Winterization for newer Raptor motors

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09-06-2018, 09:58 PM
Edo88

Do they sell a chilton or Bentley manual for these motors?

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09-06-2018, 10:03 PM
MJHSupra

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edo88

Do they sell a chilton or Bentley manual for these motors?

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No they don't.

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09-06-2018, 10:05 PM
larry_arizona

No Raptor manual sucks, Indmar should sell one.

Torque specs are a must. Goodentite is not my idea of legit.

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09-06-2018, 10:10 PM
Edo88

That sucks. For those of y’all doing it can y’all post pictures of the drain locations. Trying to decide if I wanna do it or send it too the dealership thank you.

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09-06-2018, 10:32 PM
MJHSupra

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry_arizona

No Raptor manual sucks, Indmar should sell one.

Torque specs are a must. Goodentite is not my idea of legit.

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Dealer might have that on their PCs.

Or call Indmar customer service.

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09-06-2018, 10:37 PM
MJHSupra

Blue plugs here - pic #4

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...5&share_type=t

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09-07-2018, 08:20 AM
Edo88

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJHSupra

Blue plugs here - pic #4

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...5&share_type=t

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Thank you

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09-07-2018, 11:04 AM
rdlangston13

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry_arizona

No Raptor manual sucks, Indmar should sell one.

Torque specs are a must. Goodentite is not my idea of legit.

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If your tightening up cylinder heads or main bearing caps or something similar I agree. 4 little bolts that just hold on a cover for a water pump? I promise you no tech in the country is torquing those to any specification

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09-07-2018, 11:18 AM
Gaza7

Thanks David

Found it,
09-07-2018, 11:20 AM
larry_arizona

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdlangston13

If your tightening up cylinder heads or main bearing caps or something similar I agree. 4 little bolts that just hold on a cover for a water pump? I promise you no tech in the country is torquing those to any specification

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I hear ya, just the engineer in me. I agree, it’s just enough torque to compress the o-ring, probably like 44 in-lbs.

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09-07-2018, 12:45 PM
MJHSupra

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry_arizona

, probably like 44 in-lbs.
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More engineering on the brain . . . ha ha

To us non-engineering folk - until tight. Just like the ballast pump brass screws.
09-08-2018, 06:49 PM
jcarter20

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdlangston13

Do the Indmar v-drives/transmissions that come on the newer raptor 400s have a screen or filter that needs to be removed to clean during servicing?

Did you ever get an answer to this one? I don’t think they do, but wanted to double check. To be honest, I removed the filter screen on my 05 Indmar Assault with about 200 hours and it looked brand new. It was such a pain in the ass to get back in, I never did it again. I just suck the fluids out and replace each year.

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09-08-2018, 06:51 PM
rdlangston13

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcarter20

Did you ever get an answer to this one? I don’t think they do, but wanted to double check. To be honest, I removed the filter screen on my 05 Indmar Assault with about 200 hours and it looked brand new. It was such a pain in the ass to get back in, I never did it again. I just suck the fluids out and replace each year.

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I think I did and I think the answer was no haha. Don’t remember 100%.

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09-10-2018, 01:40 PM
jcarter20

Just thought I would help everyone out with Indmar part numbers for what I ordered for my 18' Raptor 400.

Engine Oil 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic: 872003-1 (8 qt, mine took less)
Oil Filter: 501022S (cartridge type)
Coolant: 872027-1
V Drive Oil: 872022-1 (Book shows 1.25qt, mine took less)
Transmission: 872020-1 (Book shows 2.3qt, mine took less)
Raw Water Pump Impeller: 685007
Raw Water Pump Gasket: 685008
Fuel Filter: 556003
Spark Plugs: 597037-16 (16ea) I didn't need them, but thought I would include the PN

I had a sticker on the front of my engine with all this info also. At my 20 hr service I found the fluid capacities to be much different than the book. I know by sucking out the fluid, some can remain, but I am pretty sure I got all the engine oil and V drive oil out as I rain the drain hose through the drain plug hole for the engine and pulled the plug for the v drive.
09-11-2018, 12:44 PM
rdlangston13

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcarter20

Just thought I would help everyone out with Indmar part numbers for what I ordered for my 18' Raptor 400.

Engine Oil 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic: 872003-1 (8 qt, mine took less)
Oil Filter: 501022S (cartridge type)
Coolant: 872027-1
V Drive Oil: 872022-1 (Book shows 1.25qt, mine took less)
Transmission: 872020-1 (Book shows 2.3qt, mine took less)
Raw Water Pump Impeller: 685007
Raw Water Pump Gasket: 685008
Fuel Filter: 556003
Spark Plugs: 597037-16 (16ea) I didn't need them, but thought I would include the PN

I had a sticker on the front of my engine with all this info also. At my 20 hr service I found the fluid capacities to be much different than the book. I know by sucking out the fluid, some can remain, but I am pretty sure I got all the engine oil and V drive oil out as I rain the drain hose through the drain plug hole for the engine and pulled the plug for the v drive.

Taking less than specified on the vdrive and transmission seems to be a common occurrence

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09-14-2018, 10:41 AM
larry_arizona

Was thinking.......wouldn’t it be as simple as hooking a hose to the strainer basket connector and running a few gallons of Marine antifreeze through the system?

Pushing the water out as you feed antifreeze through the entire loop?

Heck making a set up with a hose, a 5 gallon bucket would be easy.

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09-14-2018, 11:02 AM
Stazi

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry_arizona

Was thinking.......wouldn’t it be as simple as hooking a hose to the strainer basket connector and running a few gallons of Marine antifreeze through the system?

Pushing the water out as you feed antifreeze through the entire loop?

Heck making a set up with a hose, a 5 gallon bucket would be easy.

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That’s what I do.

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09-14-2018, 11:16 AM
larry_arizona

How many gallons does it take?

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09-14-2018, 11:17 AM
Stazi

I run about 5 jugs or so from a large container that I hooked up a valve and a hose to.

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09-14-2018, 11:21 AM
larry_arizona

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stazi

I run about 5 jugs or so from a large container that I hooked up a valve and a hose to.

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Awesome, I was going to make a 5 gallon beer bong with a shut off valve.

I will probably open the drains first, then close, then run engine to draw in 5 gallons.

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09-14-2018, 12:36 PM
Kraimz15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stazi

That’s what I do.

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is there a shut-off valve you need to close when using the strainer? Curious if there's enough gravity from the jug to push through since the in-take on the bottom of the boat would still be open. This sounds much easier than a fake-a-lake.
09-14-2018, 01:24 PM
rdlangston13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kraimz15

is there a shut-off valve you need to close when using the strainer? Curious if there's enough gravity from the jug to push through since the in-take on the bottom of the boat would still be open. This sounds much easier than a fake-a-lake.

My 2017 with the raptor has a shut off valve after the thru Hull intake before the strainer/game a lake.

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09-17-2018, 10:56 AM
Kraimz15

2 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdlangston13

My 2017 with the raptor has a shut off valve after the thru Hull intake before the strainer/game a lake.

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I think I found it...hard to see in the first pick of the strainer, but if I you look past it, there is a valve on the floor (2nd pic). guessing this is what I close when I attach a hose to the strainer to run the anti-freeze.

Attachment 27668

Attachment 27669
09-17-2018, 11:04 AM
rdlangston13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kraimz15

I think I found it...hard to see in the first pick of the strainer, but if I you look past it, there is a valve on the floor (2nd pic). guessing this is what I close when I attach a hose to the strainer to run the anti-freeze.

Attachment 27668

Attachment 27669

That’s it. That access door doesn’t provide much access, 4 screws and that whole fiberglass piece comes out and it is much easier to reach everything

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09-17-2018, 09:26 PM
Boonejeepin

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdlangston13

That’s it. That access door doesn’t provide much access, 4 screws and that whole fiberglass piece comes out and it is much easier to reach everything

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I just leave the screw out for quick tool-less access. No issues or rattles.

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10-14-2018, 06:49 PM
jcarter20

So this might be a stupid question, but with the closed cooling....do you need to warm the engine to run antifreeze through the fresh water cooling system? I always have on older boats because the t stat needs to open to circulate the antifreeze all the way through, but on the Raptor, does that matter since it is a hybrid system?

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10-14-2018, 07:18 PM
parrothd

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcarter20

So this might be a stupid question, but with the closed cooling....do you need to warm the engine to run antifreeze through the fresh water cooling system? I always have on older boats because the t stat needs to open to circulate the antifreeze all the way through, but on the Raptor, does that matter since it is a hybrid system?

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Nope........
10-14-2018, 07:27 PM
Stazi

It does take a while for it to come out through the exhaust though. That’s when I know I’m all good. Let it run out the exhaust for a minute or so and shut I down.

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10-14-2018, 07:34 PM
jcarter20

Sounds good. I have a 12v pump step up so I can catch it out of the exhaust and circulate it. I will just let it circulate for a little while to make sure. Man....I can’t quite pull the trigger to winterize it yet. Still feel like we will have a few more decent days here in Ohio.

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10-14-2018, 07:42 PM
parrothd

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcarter20

Sounds good. I have a 12v pump step up so I can catch it out of the exhaust and circulate it. I will just let it circulate for a little while to make sure. Man....I can’t quite pull the trigger to winterize it yet. Still feel like we will have a few more decent days here in Ohio.

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You don't need a pump, just a hose and bucket underneath the exhaust.
10-25-2018, 12:52 PM
Kxmoomba

What motor oil are you guys running?
10-25-2018, 02:16 PM
Kxmoomba

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRHRSH

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger

Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller

I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

I cannot find the Mobil delvac 50 locally. Does anyone have suggestions on what else to run?
10-25-2018, 02:58 PM
Stazi

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kxmoomba

I cannot find the Mobil delvac 50 locally. Does anyone have suggestions on what else to run?

I found some synthetic SAE 50 oil at the local parts store for “Racing” which has extra ZDDP in it so that’s what I used.

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10-25-2018, 03:03 PM
jcarter20

I was told by Indmar (I called their tech support) that Mobil 1 Synthetic - 5w-30 is ok to use. My dealer was out of the Indmar 5w-30 that was speced for the motor, and they told me the same thing.

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10-25-2018, 03:05 PM
Stazi

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcarter20

I was told by Indmar (I called their tech support) that Mobil 1 Synthetic - 5w-30 is ok to use. My dealer was out of the Indmar 5w-30 that was speced for the motor, and they told me the same thing.

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No need to use Indmar repackaged oil. Mobil 1 5W30 is probably better anyway.
This is what I put in the gear side of the trans
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

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10-25-2018, 03:06 PM
Kxmoomba

Can I run Motorraft 5W30 semi syn? Also can we run a full syn?
Thanks for your relipes
10-25-2018, 03:09 PM
Stazi

Go full synthetic. It doesn’t break down as fast as mineral or semi synthetic. All the new engine these days have no issue using full PAO (synthetic) oils. The seals used these days aren’t the crap that was in cars from 30 years ago.
PS I’m in the business of lubrication for a living.

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10-25-2018, 03:15 PM
Kxmoomba

OK and I can use motorcraft full syn then? or should I just stick with Mobil one? I have been reading through all the forums looking for an answer and it seems its mobil one or motorcraft, some say yes to full syn some don't lol

Are you using that VR1 motor oil in the trans? Just want to double check since what I found in the winterization was this info and a 50 synthetic

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

I appreciate your help. I work in the powersports industry and they sit us down and talk about oil but it all sounds the same haha.
10-25-2018, 03:27 PM
Stazi

Mobil 1 is my favorite as it has the one of the best viscosity indexes of all the synthetic motor oil’s and also the highest quality, unless you want to pay unnecessarily for stuff like royal purple, and Amsoil. The latter oils are full of viscosity modifiers that break down quickly with heat and shear. They test great in labs on viscometers but don’t perform any better in the field.
The trans oil is just an SAE 50 weight oil. Nothing special here. Again, go synthetic. The one I posted has antifoaming additives which is ideal for gearboxes.
Motorcraft and Indmar and Mopar etc etc just buy relabeled/repackaged oil from the big oil companies. They don’t make any themselves. Because they will recommend their own brand because it just adds more money in their pocket.

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10-25-2018, 03:31 PM
Kxmoomba

OK, thanks for that. I just did't want to assume that I can run any trans oil but felt like I was probably over thinking it. This was very helpful

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