I would hate to hear you call someone out! 🤣🤣
Would get bloody!
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I would hate to hear you call someone out! 🤣🤣
Would get bloody!
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[emoji106][emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by dakota4ce
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Has anyone seen or heard of a way to scientifically measure the "push" of a surf wave? it seems like it'd be fairly straightforward in the right conditions. You could tether a buoy to the bottom of the lake (assuming a proper but not excessive depth), with a dynamometer or fish scale type device that can measure and record a max reading. then pass close by the buoy w/the boat (at desired surf speed and desired setup) and record the force exerted on the scale.
Measuring several boats, or a boat that is known to have an outstanding setup and voila. Obviously this is not something the average owner would be willing to do just to dial in their wake, but if the manufacturers did this it could certainly help dial in the factory settings for each boat's autowake/autoflow system.
If you had access to a private lake, you could even set up several successive measuring points and make controlled adjustments along the path and then review the results.
Nevermind, this is stupid. Far easier just to do it via trial and error w/a qualified pro and call it a day ;-) KISS
Hey we need a little spice every now and then![emoji106]. We could have a bad suggestion thread. That would be fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepers
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That’s a great suggestion!!Quote:
Originally Posted by russellsmojo
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This is a good question...Based on what I read from other people (mostly those with Mojo's), I think the bow/center should be at 100% vs 60%. I don't think it would work to fill both the bow/center 100% and then drain the center. The bow would just drain back into the center tank. If my thoughts aren't accurate, I'm all ears to hear from the experts.
Can't wait for the darn water to warm up here so I can get back out and actually dial in the surf wave.
nice :) good question :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theodoric
The only way to do this would be to install an inline ball valve to close off the bow bag from the hard tank. It would be something you'd have to manually open and close.
Problem with that is if you had a valve between the two and you closed it to drain the center tank there would be no way for air to enter the tank to take the place of the water you are removing. This will result in a cracked and busted tankQuote:
Originally Posted by KnoxMojo
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Then I guess I wouldn't do it
Yeah, this issue was discovered by people placing check valves on the vent line for the IBS/center hard tank. Resulted in some busted center tanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxMojo
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Oh that's a bummer. Good catch, I'd never want to do it, so had no idea. Then maybe a manual pump over the side and the bag not plumbed in?
That’s what I use for supplementary bags.Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxMojo
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Anyone know if there's a new firmware update for 2019?Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
Read though this a few times and thought I understood it all. Got my pitch and roll set to surf goofy at 9 and 3. put more people on the starboard side and auto wake keeps dumping the bag on the starboard side. Why is that? I fill all bags to 100% manually and turn auto wake on when I am getting in the water. The wave is good and has push but it just doesn't make sense to me that it is dumping the surf side and is not asking to move weight either.
Have you tried evenly distributing the passengers. If so does auto wake still dump surf side?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kxmoomba
It's working as it should, you have the roll set to 3 and you have more roll than 3 degrees, it's dumping surfing side ballast to get back to the 3 degree roll. Use the default values for the roll, I think it's 5?Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadyus
Move people to the port side, autowake can then drain that side. But really you want to have 5 roll. It only tells you to move weight when the side its trying to adjust is at 100 or less than 80%.
Best to fill up to 100%, turn on autowake and get up to surf speed, then check the pit/roll and move people to help obtain the desire pitch roll while moving. You get max ballast that way.
Goofy really needs to be around 5°.
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OK, for some reason I thought I read 3 and -3 for port. I will try 5. I guess when goose was saying to Maximize the weight by putting more people on the surf side. It dumps it out to around 70% on the surf side.
It will dump from the surf side if you have MORE roll than the setting in Autowake. Because of prop rotation the roll to the left for Natural footers will always be less than the roll to the left for Goofy footers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kxmoomba
I find -3.5° for Natural and 5° for Goofy.
Pay attention to the positive and negative values. -ve is roll to port/left and +ve is roll to starboard/ right.
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Ok, Thank you guys. Thought I was loosing it there for a bit. I think I got the -3 or -3.5 for port mixed up with 5 for starboard. either way the wave was better than when we tried manually. We are headed on a week long boat vacation tomorrow so hopefully we get a lot of time to learn from Autowake!
The 2016 Mojo and 2016 Craz have very similar hulls so you can start with those settings for the 2016 Craz and that will give you a decent starting point.
The hull design for Craz. Combine Mojo's performance and space in a slightly shorter package. The result is a sturdy bow-shaped design with all the advantages of Mojo in go and final performance.
Improving your mojo in 2016 include setting achievable goals, focusing on one task at a time, taking breaks regularly, and using productivity tools
Autoflow makes it easy to draw flows. Simply select 2 objects and a line will be magically drawn between them.
Run Autoflow
Select any 2 shapes whille holding down ⇧SHIFT and a line will be drawn
Keep selecting until you're all wired up..
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Ok, looking to resurrect this Zombie thread. Just got my new 2022 Mojo and wondered if anyone has suggestions for surf set-up for 2021 models. I played with it a bit but upgraded from a 2006 XLV and have lots to learn with the wakeplate and surf tabs. Any advice is welcomed, Thanks!
I have a 21 Makai, so I cant speak directly about the ?Mojo. But First off, make sure you burp all the air out of your bags before you start changing any settings. End of the day, the factory settings are pretty dang good for the most part. Tweaking in your preferences based on the size crew you have seems to be a moving target. I know this doesn't answer your question, but just wanted you to know to double check your bags for air. Flipping the fill switch back on until the overflows shoot water out does not mean that they still don't have a lot of air, thus less water weight, in them either. Open the hatch and look for the big balloon.
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You mean look for the bags to be inflated when they should be empty? And thanks for the advice
Not exactly, when you fill them to 100% with water, there is usually air trapped in them which will keep the water from filling to the top. They have bleeder valves on them that don't really work very well, so you have to loosen it to let air out then tighten it back up. There are some workarounds. I did this to mine using some 20 dollar irrigation line bleeders and it works pretty well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VfdzhLi6uYWrgnk7A
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fc1c1323f1.jpg
Ok, i get it, thanks, I will check into that
Thanks for the information mate.
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Has this been working well? And does it hit the bottom of your Port and Star rear trays?Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
I added the larger WM bags and don't have them on anymore. But, when they were on my stock bags, they did work well and didn't hit my trays. I had about 1/2" clearance under them. I need to try them on the WM bags, but the thread size is different.Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtnsurfer
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All the info I read on them says they won't let water out.......I just want to bleed the air out if there is some, but I love my rear trays and its a pain to take them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
I don't use my bags 100% full, so I have 4 inches or so of space. Let me know how it goes with the new bags
I didn't end up putting then on the new bags. I have gotten in the habit of just opening the deck pads and loosening one if the bleeder valves to get the air out when they are about half full now. It is really easy and fast to do now that the bins aren't in there. It also gives me the comfort of making sure the bags are "standing up" like they should be and not crooked or leaning to one side. On the storage bins, you can probably trim the plastic on the bin back around where the gas tubes connect so that you have enough clearance to get the bin out without having to disconnect them every time. I was going to do that to mine, but now I have them out all the time. Then again, you would probably still have to unload the stuff stored in them.
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Good point.....I did that on my 19. I like the trays....we use a lot of wet suits and they are handy for holding everything. Thanks for the commentsQuote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
It is very amazing indeed.
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