The stock amp in my boat is a kicker zx200.4 way underpowered for 6 inboat speakers.
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The stock amp in my boat is a kicker zx200.4 way underpowered for 6 inboat speakers.
That sounds right... I think that's what I have as well. So, a 4 channel ???w amp?
The dual battery setup isn't too hard but I understand on the cost.
I asked about wiring thinking there might be a way to get more out of your current amp. Do you currently have the stock amp hooked up to in-boats, sub, and the new tower speakers?
yea... everything... I am sure there is prolly a better way.
If that is indeed the amp. Then you are looking at 200w x 4 channels. This doesn't hold true for all speakers but here is a generalization of the amp specs ...
1. 35 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms - If you wired 4 speakers, each speaker would see 35 watts
2. 50 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms - If you wired 2 speakers together on one channel (2 ohm) then each would see 25 watts.
3. 100 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms - If you bridged (i think?), you could wire 2 speakers getting 100 watts each.
A combo of option 1 and 2 is ideal for in boat speakers. Option 3 would be ideal for your new towers.
Aside from all of the above, you are asking a small 4 channel amp to run 9(?) speakers? You def are not getting the full potential out of the speakers. You might be better off by either not running some of the in boats or running them off the head unit.
So I guess the question to you is, do you have any interest in buying another amp for the summer?
One thing that was important to me being a sound system newbie was when I added a sub I was able to use my in boat stock amp on high pass. It really helped everything sound better. I actually used my old tower speakers' amp, which was a 250.2 in bridge mode for the sub. Then I added a bigger amp for the tower speakers.
So I guess the question to you is, do you have any interest in buying another amp for the summer?
Yes, I believe so. I want it to sound it's best for sure... if I can achieve that with (1) amp that would be ideal. I believe in keeping it as simple as possible.
The Kicker ZX200.4 would be just enough to drive six basic in-boat coaxials decently but absolutely no more. With two cockpit coaxials in parallel on each of the two rear channels you would have 25 watts per speaker. After you gain the remaining two front channels on the two bow speakers, to effectively match the cockpit speakers in output, you will have the equavilent power to all six speakers (6 X 25 watts). Even without a subwoofer running the amplifier in the highpass mode at 55 Hz (assuming the amplifier has variable highpass provisions on all channels) will not diminish any bass contribution by the 6.5" coaxials but will clean up both the amplifier and speakers. So you could use this amplifier and just supplement it for tower and subwoofer power.
David
Earmark Marine
I really need someone to dumb that down for me please. :)
Your speakers will benefit from being grouped into in-boats, sub, and towers. That allows high-pass to be used.
Here are the two options I see if you are only wanting to add one amp.
1. Use your factory amp to push the tower speakers, 100 watts x 2. Then pick up a 5 channel amp that could be used to run the in-boats and sub.
2. Use your factory amp to push the in-boats, 25 watts x 6. Then pick up a 4 channel amp to run the towers and sub with. I think this would have to be a specific 4 channel amp? I don't know about that department.
Things to consider: 1. You may be better off picking up 2 monoblock amps and running 3 amps instead of picking up another a/b amp. 2. You may be better off scraping that amp altogether and picking up 2 new ones.
Start here: What in boat speakers do you have? What sub do you have? Do you have a budget in mind? Less than $300, 500, 750, etc?
Only factual info we have right now is we want at least 75 watts x 2 going to the tower.
Yes, similar to what is stated above by KG, you should not consider your amplifier options until you are decided on the exact speakers. Speakers absolutely dictate amplification and the utilization of that amplification. Then the process will go easy and make more sense.
David
Earmark Marine
If it was me I would probably go with option 1 that KG laid out for you. It's simple and effective.
David how do the stock kicker inboats stack up with some of the popular speakers in there price range such as the polk db series, exile, and wetsounds? I bet they could sound a lot better but are just held back because of the lack of power they get from the stock amp.
Ok... my current set up is:
(6) in boat Kicker 6.5
(1) 12" Kisker sub in it's own enclosure (ported)
(2) Roswell R6 tower speakers
(1) Kenwood HU (not sure of model)
(1) Kicker amp
I am happy with the speakers and not looking to replace. I just want to get the most out of them.
So, is adding an amp an automatic "Add a second battery" situation?
I hate to keep asking questions buuuutt ... Do you know which kicker sub?
I'm assuming the in-boats are the factory kicker in-boats. I think the goal there would be to get them in the 50 watt rms range. Then you want enough amp (if going with option #1) to give the sub at least 300rms, I'd think.
For hypothetical purposes, lets say you get the JL XD700.5 (you would be looking for something similar). Option 1 that was discussed before would look like this:
In boats: 700.5 using 2 channels to bow and 2 channels to cockpit = 2 x 60 watts and 4 x 45 watts
Sub: 700.5 using the sub channel to give you 300 x 1
Tower: factory amp bridged giving you 200 x 2.
That gives each of the speakers what they are looking for and will sound exponentially better than 200/9, which honestly, I'd be surprised if all speakers were running if they are all hooked up to the amp.
End min goal should be: min of 75x2 to tower; min of 40x6 (likely in a 4 channel setup)to in-boats; min of 250x1 to sub
End ideal goal should be: 100x2 to tower; 55x6 to in-boat; 300+ to sub.
Don't let the second battery scare you from an install standpoint. It's not bad.
Oh, and I've recently learned all this stuff so everything I say is subject to be changed by one of the guys that knows more. I'm just bored and felt I could be of some assistance.
I guess I need to pul up my big girl panties and just do it. I wanna look at that JL amp you mentioned... start looking at prices!
bzubke1,
To answer your question about the factory Kicker coaxials. This is a true marine speaker that is built tough. It already has a continuous midbass cone. So from a construction standpoint its a great product. And, it will definitely benefit when correctly powered.
When you go to an upgrade you are going from a 'W' style dome tweeter (which is kind of a cone/dome hybrid) to a true dome with a larger voice coil. For example, the upgrade Kicker marine coaxial that essentially looks the same, while less sensitive, has a completely different sound. Its just so much smoother.
In our soundboard we have the Polk MM651UM, upgrade Kicker marine coaxial, Exile's newer coaxial, JL Audio MX coaxial and the Wetsounds XS-650. These are all marine 6.5" coaxials.
A row down we have Boston Acoustics, Hertz, Focal and a couple of other automotive 6.5" coaixals.
Its hard to find this line up in one place so that you can really compare in a fair and equal environment. If you ever get a chance stop by for a listen.
I'd rather not pick a favorite for you.
David
Earmark Marine
David, I am looking at yalls website as we speak. Are you at the Lewisville location? Do yall install second batteries with perko? Thinking I may just need to drag the boat and leave it a week. Don't see me being able to do as clean a work as I am wanting.
Casey
The advice is definitley appreciated KG, but this is starting to get a little more compicated than I think I want to tackle. I am a tad paranoid to start messing with the boats wiring. On my '83 Mastercraft I used to have I replaced the dash with real wood... created an electrical gremlin that took me weeks to track down. I couldn't bare to do that to this boat. :)
No problem. You can't go wrong going down to Earmark. Their picture gallery shows some real nice work. I've actually bought most of my stuff from him and he would likely be installing if I lived closer.
You should report back on the setups they have if you go down there. I'm surprised more Dallas area guys haven't checked out speakers and and given some "common guy" feedback. It seems like it is one of the few places you could compare all the brands, both the tower speakers and the coaxials listed out a couple post up.
Casey,
Absolutely.
Give Byronn or Bob a visit in Lewisville.
I'm there frequently.
David
Earmark Marine
Chawk, there are two options ...
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....aint-em!/page2
I have been reading this thread man, it was about him wanting tower speakers, then he got some, then he mounted them, and now people are telling him to upgrade his amp.
Guess you guys lost me linking Ians thread because Ian got speakers and is painting them and there Plastic.
Now if you talking about painting then ok but i thought we were still talking amps? LOL
Smart guy was enderring in the form i was trying to use it in LOL
I'll make it a little clearer, read Ians last post in the thread, specifically the part where he mentions he bought new amps and asked if anyone wanted to buy his.....
That would be the relevance of the link.
:)
LMFAO at the above!
So chawk, who's the idiot now?
This is more of a rhetorical question. (Everyone reading this thread including this poster probably fits in that category now.)
Ha! My hand is still raised! Hoping to still score an amp on the cheap... anyone... anyone???
You better quickly send a PM Ian and/or KG!
I think the 700.5 of Ians is spoken for? I have a 4 channel and I have two monoblock amps for sale in the classifieds but I no longer have a big desire to sell them, only reason I haven't made a plug.
I had been sitting back wondering if anyone was doing stereo upgrades this year and then BAM, we have 4 or 5 starting up!!!
I talked to Ian, I believe both amps are spoken for... So... KG, whats the dealio on the 4 channel?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bL337on...l#overview-tab
That's what I have. I hadn't recommended it because you are still going to need an amp to push the sub and an amp to push the towers.
I have the stock amp still, I was gonna use that for cabin, and get an additional amp to run the tower / sub. The link 404'd me
You got this ... http://cdn0.knowyourmeme.com/i/28590...naljosephd.jpg
Kenwood KAC-8402
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5orwIlA...html#overview-