Winter Project is complete, pics inside!!!!

I've had a few PM's from people asking about the LED's and what all we did, so I figured I would just post my process. Everything is powered by the factory courtesy light wiring, off of that switch, even what we added. For above the cup-holders, the Supras already had a small 3 LED unit above them, I removed this and just replaced with flexible strip. Wired directly in place of the old. Same for rear lockers, behind the driver seat locker, and the rear transom light. The only change to the wiring for the lockers was the ground wire was ran to the switch, and another ground from the switch back to the LED so when closed, the ground was interrupted and they shut off.

The vents have Flexible LED strips inside the, and I coated the entire vent cavity with a reflective material. The Roswell LED's were 5mm single LEDs from the factory, We removed them, un-soldered from the circuit board, and I put the factory ciruit boards on the drill press and drilled out room for 5 SuperFlux LED's and siliconed them in, in the patern of the stock S that is in the lenses. The glovebox, driver cup holder, and rider box in the back are all SF, which is all piggy backed off the existing runs. Some new wire had to be added to get to the locations, but it all ties into the factory setup, and every single wire is loomed and hidden. The LED's are a very slow job. Lastly, all the in-boats have two 3mm LED's behind each grill, and are wired through the mounting lip of the speakers.

Hope this clears some stuff up and will help some other DIY'ers save some coin and learn a little while doing it! I can answer anything that isn't clear, possibly with pics. Ask away!

Here are pics i snapped that first night of the strip LEDs. Each strip is different length depending on its application. We filled above the cupholders with the longest length that would fit.

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_0168.jpg

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_0167.jpg

Doing a little research and found a custom kit for tow boats. This kit (Wakeboard Boat Extreme Accent Lighting Kit) includes a remote that you can use to turn the intensity down or have it flash.

I'm looking to add this kit to my boat

http://www.mfileds.com/wakeboard-light-kits.html

Clamcakes

I've been getting some PM's about the pin switches we used, here is a direct Link:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps

If you guys have more questions about some of the stuff we used, post it up here vs a pm if you don't mind so we can share all the info.

Your LEDs and stereo work are awesome - no question!!!

I'm curious about how you mounted some of the LED strips and modules. 2-sided tape? Tiny screws/brackets? Self tapping?

I've done a few LED modules with tiny stainless self tapping screws and nuts/bolts which was a bit of a pain. I'm wondering how the 2-sided tape will hold up if that's the route you went. Thanks.

It is double-sided tape, stuck to vinyl, aluminum and fiberglass (just about everything). They are from Ozinum. From our research, they had great reviews from the marine industry so we are hoping we don't have any issues. Only time we will tell but I'll def post up if it doesn't work out.

You should at least try to rub down the vinyl mounting surface with alcohol beforehand. These are oily materials.
In our experience the adhesives in double-face-tape will breakdown in a marine environment. Its just a matter of time. We hard mount everything. If there is no way but to use the tape you can run a silicon bead completely around the perimeter of the adhesive tape in order to seal it.
Regardless of the instructions, double-face-tape, 3M or otherwise, will not work under the swim platform or under the water line.

David
Earmark Marine

Several of our lights are secured with silicone and several are also "hard mounted" where silicone and double sided tape didn't really fit the mounting area. For the moment, we have zero exterior lights or anything under or at the waterline. I'll try to not take the only post you have made in our thread as personal. You managed to contribute nothing positive to any of the threads KG and I had this winter regarding solid info for a DIYer's full system build and also managed to ignore the emails you personally told me to send you regarding some tuning info etc, and only decided to post when it appeared we did something the "non professional" way.

Dusty,
Easy there fella. I wasn't even thinking of your installation which is very, very nice by the way.
I was actually referencing the kit that was posted above which had one method of mounting only...double-face-tape. You might look over that kit and see.
As for your other beef, openly and freely posting on a public forum is completely different than private consultation. You behave like you are entitled to something that you are not. I have given private help to countless members but only up to the point that they're taking advantage. This is purely at my discretion.

David
Earmark Marine

dumb question... :)

"Volume controls (eq with microphone and hse): 255"

what benefit does the HSE give you if you already have the EQ? Just an easier way to turn the volume up/down? teach me ... !

never mind! i figured it out- did a quick google search... :) i got to get me one of these ...

meech,
The HSE is out of production. So you might look into the Watersport Innovations Boost Box unit. Same basic principle with a little different approach as to how it hooks up and achieves the result. Its also a good product.

David
Earmark Marine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine

Dusty,
Easy there fella. I wasn't even thinking of your installation which is very, very nice by the way.
I was actually referencing the kit that was posted above which had one method of mounting only...double-face-tape. You might look over that kit and see.
As for your other beef, openly and freely posting on a public forum is completely different than private consultation. You behave like you are entitled to something that you are not. I have given private help to countless members but only up to the point that they're taking advantage. This is purely at my discretion.

David
Earmark Marine

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ehh, forget it. won't even bother.

Bottomline: we asked you for nothing, you told us to contact you privately, you ignored us. We got it figured out.

KG,
(or anybody for that matter) how did you tie-in all of the LED's as you wired it all up?

I was looking at these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=082-155

I'm assuming you ran a + and - from the back of the boat to the front on each side of the boat to the power, ground, and switch. Did you use something similar as above to tie each strip or superflux light into the main wiring? Or did you even worry about a moisture seal and go with a traditional scotchlok type?

Thanks!

Viking,
Try and avoid 3M scotch lock connectors if that is what you were referencing.
Fiats were filled with them from the factory and electrical problems were constant because of them.
We like to run a couple of 18/2s around the perimeter of the boat so you potentially have two independent circuits and you can tap in anywhere you like. Its best to solder and heatshrink for minimal resistance and maximum moisture resistance. If you wanted a very small disconnect, Tyco should be a good brand.

David
Earmark Marine

Call me cheap, but I just used a single run of 18/2ga in a loop around the boat and used solderless butt connectors. I have never cared for those in-line type connectors. I left a bit of slack in the loop and each location where I have LEDs I ran a lead down and spliced into the loop. All the wiring is tucked/tied down and hidden obviously and I don't let my boat get very wet on the inside - at least not behind the scenes where the wiring is hidden. Been 3+ years now and no electrical problems.

I used modules from superbrightleds.com - plastic housings with chrome finish and they've held up really well. Hoping to add more (and more and more!?) soon. May have to compare stuff with oznium this time.

Amazing install guys, you really went all out and it shows. So how is the Krypt EQ? Does it work as advertised?

any pics berg? Thanks!
I'm looking to get it done easy and cheap too..........

Don't see a need to solder since it's up and out of the elements.

If you use Heat Sealing Connectors you have the best of both worlds, ease of use and a sealed moisture free connection. Use as a regular butt connector then apply heat to release the sealant and seal water tight. In case anyone doubts these work, Harley-Davidson has been using these on electrical connections for eons in areas that are routinly exposed to water. I've used them myself in many applications as well and can vouch for them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Razzman

If you use Heat Sealing Connectors you have the best of both worlds, ease of use and a sealed moisture free connection. Use as a regular butt connector then apply heat to release the sealant and seal water tight. In case anyone doubts these work, Harley-Davidson has been using these on electrical connections for eons in areas that are routinly exposed to water. I've used them myself in many applications as well and can vouch for them.

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alot of people might not think harley davidson is a good example when referencing quality...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rdlangston13

alot of people might not think harley davidson is a good example when referencing quality...

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Then a lot of people haven't been keeping up with the times :cool:

I agree completely but people like my father who rides a Yamaha Raider S (which is actually a pretty sweet bike) will argue that Harley is shit till then end of time. Funny how he only drives American cars/trucks but has a Japanese bike

While we're on the Harley detour...years ago I bought a Honda 1100cc Ace. What an incredibly well made bike it was. But almost from the moment I bought it I wished for a Harley whether good or bad.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine

While we're on the Harley detour...years ago I bought a Honda 1100cc Ace. What an incredibly well made bike it was. But almost from the moment I bought it I wished for a Harley whether good or bad.

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As many do after buying a foreign cruiser. Many buy them as they can't justify the cost of a Harley and many, like yourself, regret the decision almost immediately. I owned Harley's in the bad times and the good, hell between 2000 and 2006 I bought four new ones alone! One of them I rode 86,000 miles before giving it up.

Ok, back to the op. :D

We used the heat sealing connectors that Razz mentioned. It was quick and seemed to be reliable. I have used them on my trailer harness as well as a backup camera and never had any issues.

That awesome! What did you use for LEDs? Looking to add some to my boat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GoBucks

That awesome! What did you use for LEDs? Looking to add some to my boat.

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Ozinium Lights

http://www.oznium.com/

Amazingly clean install guys, I have no doubt you have 80 hours each in to it.
It's rediculous how terrible the dealer installs are, and we all have no choice but to scrap everything and start from stratch if we want it to be right.

I know its an old thread, but no doubt impressive enough to bump it back to the top :)