For a second there I thought it said "GA POWER". LOL!
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DB8014 i think is the 4 spot ground (http://www.midtownsounds.com/db8014.html), which I think you could just use two of those (one power one ground) but if you have to have a fused power dist block take a look at http://www.midtownsounds.com/tsfdb4-manl.html
The title is a little confusing because it says (4) 4ga or 8ga out, but then you read the descrition, it says (2) 4ga out and (2) 8ga out. So Im not sure, but this should get you started.
It looks like Ian used 2x of the DB8014, but not sure. Maybe he can confirm.
Ian, so you can add an ACR to the factory, one-battery set-up and it will function correctly, without the new switch? I want to add a battery, but don't want to change the switch if not necessary. Anyone else running an ACR with the factory , one-battery, on-off switch?
Jeff,
I hesitate to get started on this subject because it can get complicated.
I prefer using the 5511e Blue Sea dual circuit switch in conjunction with any ACR/VSR. There are multiple applications when the switch is needed to manually circumvent the ACR/VSR. It could be for AC shore charging when you want truly isolated battery banks. It could be on a very large audio system with a very large stereo battery bank after a long playtime at rest and as a result the functionality of the ACR/VSR has been exceeded and it won't combine. It could be during for a long weekend at a distant destination where you may be camping and have no access to AC shore power.
You can do many of the same functions with a rewiring of a conventional dual battery switch but the function won't match the switch nomenclature and that would be more than a pain.
A simple On/Off battery switch can facilitate one additional function but can't duplicate the multiple functions of a 5511e.
So there's my vote.
David
Earmark Marine
Ian is this the seletor you added to the ACR?
David, I assume this 4 position would work 1, 2, 1+2 and off
http://bluesea.com/products/6007 i believ this is what is installed with my 12 XLV with the pro mariner sport 20 charger.. i too would like the acr as i had the bepVSr in the old boat.
hijack over continue exile install thread
Are bow speakers not offered on the 2013 standard?
2005 mobius lsv 2900lbs ballast
So David, is there a difference in the Perko 2 battery switch that came in my boat and the blue seas 2 battery switch? I think I want to add a ACR this winter when I redo my stereo install and want to know if I need to buy a new switch
Sent from my iPhone newtys droid killer using Tapatalk
This is copied but wanted to know if the switch would work with the acr in a very similar diagram or doe i buy a new blue seas switch
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...teryswitch.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...iringv2_cr.png
Jmotto,
An ACR will work just fine when used in conjunction with a traditional 3-post 1/2/BOTH/OFF dual battery switch like the commonly used Perko brand or the Blue Sea 9001e.
The real advantage to the Blue Sea OFF/ON/Combine 4-post dual circuit plus 5511 over the traditional switch, is when there is an on-board charger in the scheme.
If the upgrade includes a 2-bank on-board charger, then I would recommend going with the dual-circuit switch.
With one action, you can combine and isolate the loads from their source battery. Since the dual-circuit has 4 post, rather then 3, the ACR is isolated from the batteries when the switch is off, allowing the charger to properly charge and condition the battery banks. With the traditional 3-post switch, the ACR will end up combining the banks when the charger is on. This makes the batteries one large bank.
David and Joe,
The switch in the photo is a conventional dual battery switch.
The dual circuit switch in the diagram is a 5511e.
The conventional dual battery switch in the above photo cannot be introduced into the above diagram as is.
So, post up a diagram of how you would wire a conventional dual battery switch in conjunction with an ACR/VSR.
There are several methods but the results are different. Again, draw it out to see.
David
Earmark Marine
The Blue Sea 6007 is a standard dual battery switch with 3 posts. It will not provide the same benefits as a dual circuit 5511e 4 post switch.
The 6007 switch when integrated with an ACR/VSR is an ackward match-up similar to what BEP Marine does. I don't like that scheme at all. The 6007 switch will not enable isolated AC shore charging. You can wire it in an unconventional method to achieve isolation but the switch nomenclature will not match the function and that is a poor option.
I strongly recommend the 5511e when you are using a shore charger. Keep it simple and benefit from ALL the functions that the 5511e & ACR/VSR will provide....not to mention an easier scheme to visualize in various circumstances.
There's shore charging.
There's long weekend boating/camping trips at another lake and no access to shore power.
There are countless other scenarios where the 5511e is friendly to understand and use. It's really all encompassing.
David
Earmark Marine
The 6007M is also a 3-post switch like the 9001E, so they are electrically the same in terms of how they are configured and how they isolate and combine. When using an ACR and dual-bank charger, the ideal switch is the 5511, unless you devise and means to defeat the ACR's ground circuit when the engine is off and the charger is on. Its far less complicated and overall better functionally to swap to the 5511.
Mike,
For several seasons we placed a switch on the ground of voltage sensing relays/solenoids to force isolation. We even used a relay and looped it through several circuits to automatically disconnect the ground while in the storage state, thereby eliminating the manual switch. An engineer (it's really hard to get a true engineer on the horn versus a service rep who knows next to nothing) and he ask us to discontinue that approach. I suspect that the reason is because microprocessors get confused when B+ is applied before ground which is why when you hard reset you always apply the ground first. Admittedly we did not have a problem, at least not that I am aware of. So I cannot say conclusively, not to do it. I'm just passing on what was shared with me. Since that time we have converted over to the 5511e switch when using ACR/VSRs.
David
Earmark Marine
Interesting. Here is how BS explains to do it. I guess they looked into it at some point and found it to be OK.
http://bluesea.com/files/resources/t...olving_acr.pdf
trying to get it in a format that will allow me to post it here.
Ok, heres a Jpeg. I will admit that i did not know that this existed on the ACR's website till now. I, like David, saw no harm in interrupting the ground and have done it in the past. Just keep in mind that this is for the Blue Sea 7610, so other ACR/VSR's may see this mod differently.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...CRInterupt.jpg
David and Mike,
thanks for the input and the degree of technicality that you guys bring. That is the route i will go.
Until now I have not seen that technical brief either. It sure is exciting when learning something new! Thanks!
I'm not too keen about cutting the AC supply in case I have to warranty a charger. I can do something similar with a DC circuit whenever both the boat key is off and the stereo is off. However, if I am using an inverted AC inlet, which we routinely use, then we already have a built in junction for the relay tap without skinning a cord or adding additional parts.
Btw, it was SurePower that discouraged me from the ground wire interruption path but the engineer never gave me a concrete reason why not, so I had to speculate as to why.
David
Earmark Marine
That's very cool MLA. Thanks for sharing that.
We made a lot of progress this weekend.
Got all of the wires ran from left to right, and mounted the ZLD;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/y7ydazah.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/utazaqyz.jpg
Mounted and wired the 1500.1, so we are ready to rock once I finish the box;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/3ynehagu.jpg
Finished wiring the 800.4 and Harpoon;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/dere9ade.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/u2ebynuj.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/ypa5ader.jpg
Finished distribution blocks;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/y2yvusys.jpg
Mounted and wired the XM9s;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/a8abyter.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/u6uha9up.jpg
I've got a lot of tweaking and tinkering to do, but all of the infrastructure is there and everything is working properly. Chase didn't want the amps to be on display, so I tucked them away, easy to access but out of sight and out of the way.
I think it looks pretty good, all like its supposed to be there. I might order some TechFlex to cover the wires, but that's an easy add later.
Another stroke of genius on my part; the factory Accessory switch in this boat is unused, so I am using that to turn the Harpoon on/off, which keeps with the factory appearing requirement.
Also, so far this thing ROCKS! The new 6.5s are a huge improvement from the previous model (going to have to make that upgrade for sure in my new boat). A few people from the marina came over to ask what kind of sub we had, because it "sounds good!" my response "The sub is actually sitting in the back of my jeep, we haven't unpacked it yet, that's just a few hundred watts through the cabin speakers!"
nice install, clean and simple.
How are the tower speakers for head clearance or are they off to the side enough to not matter?
Moomba on the left, Supra on the right---nice neighbors
There isn't really a good spot to mount them in this tower; Chase is like 6'2" and they seem to be OK, but of you drive like a Wally (standing) you definitely don't want them there. They can go higher if you move them toward the center, but I didn't like the way it looked.
Love the coozies in the walk through!
do the towers overpower the music for the peeps inside the boat
Yes if you don't have a fader . With four nines on the harpoon they are so clear the inboats are down low when riding.
The EXILE logo on the front comes off, and theres a switch in there. + - 3 db if i recall. If you hit it to the lower setting it will allow the speaker to essentually start its throw later so you dont kill the people in the back seat.
It also makes the speaker sound a little warmer to me, this was designed in for the towers that sit farther up in the boat.
Mike, would that be to the "-" setting and i could not tell when i played with them to standind in the rear of the boat.
I left them at the factory preset. maybe i nee to tone them down.