Vibration turning to right when pulling

I think you are encountering the same problem I am. The more weight in the boat while pulling on the tube, the worse the revs or prop wash but the tachometer doesn't ever flutter. I don't think it's the tranny or the Vdrive slipping on mine.

Another friend of mine with a 2005 Mobius XLV just put on an Acme prop and just couldn't be happier with it. Rave reviews all around from him.

I have run 89 octane almost all the time with no problems. I will occasionally run 92, a bottle of treatment or octane boost through it for good measure but have never had any idling problems. Thing is - compare the cost of a few bottles of treatment to the extra cost of filling with premium. About $6 for 30 gallons. Might save yourself the hassle and just fill'er with 92.

Man- you are dead on with that assessment! In fact, I had a lot of people in the boat pullng a "Big Mable" along with another towable so as you can imagine we had some weight going on.

So based on your comment, did you get a new prop? Or, are you kicking it around? I looked on the ACME website, but I don't have a clue as to what size to get, etc... Looks like about a $400 fix- huh?

I was all stoked about the boat until last weekend, but maybe this will do it. I liked your call on the gas treatment too.

Butta,

Since both outboards and sterndrives are planing, the prop is lifted close to the surface, it is MUCh easier to cause aeration (not cavitation) on a OB or SD, then on towboats. Turning hard actually lifts the prop out of the water.

Towboats tend to get cavitation vs aeration because they sit much lower in the water and do not plane out as much... but because of the ability to change the ratio and shift in weight, when turning they can lean over more.. the more ballast, the more they tend to lean. The wakeplate can help this a LOT, but bubbles under the boat cause cavitation and you then feel the effects.

So, the more ballast, the wider the turns need to be.

Simple rule.

When unweighted, and with the wakeplte set properly - you can spin these boats 180 and not cavitate one bit. Can't do that with an I/O !

Hope this helps,

-Joe

Butta,
Great explanation. This is my first inboard moving from I/O boats and it has been an eye opener. Don't get me wrong..positives with both, but I see exactly what you mean with the cavitation. I guess with the rope attached to the tower it exaggerates the leaning effect too.

The remedy is a new prop and wider turns. Do you know anything about ACME props and the size I would need for my 2000 Outback LS?

Thanks-
Jeff

I'm torn on what I want to do. I bought my boat last June and put about 30 hours on it. I think the prop is the original and it is absolutely flawless minus two little nicks that are maybe a half mm or so. I don't have perfect pass yet or any big boomin' stereo system so of course I've got a big wish list and a disproportionate budget.

Depending on how things go this summer I may break down and buy the prop - keep this one for a spare. We'll see.

You might consider taking your Outback into the dealer for a full systems check & tune-up. Who knows - it could be some temperature sensor telling the fuel injection to cut off the fuel or air mixture to make your idle rough. Right after I bought mine I had the local dealer go through it from end to end and check everything out and give it a tune. I do (most) of that all myself now, but initially I felt it was worth the investment considering the cost of the boat and the thousands of $$ of gas I'd be putting through it... Plus I've pulled more than one person off the river with a boat load of :( when there pride and joy wouldn't start or stay running.

Thanks jc,

but I'm Joe, not Butta.

:(

And NEVER tow inflatables from the tower !!! Designed for much less stress - you can cause all sorts of stress cracks and damage. Inflatables are the hardest thing to pull, and shoi;d only be attached to the pylon, rear tow point, or a bridal across the two rear lift eyes.

-Joe

Very true with towing from the tower Joe. However, if you ever have never tried it, you can really whip a tube when pulling from the tower! We tried it just once with a buddy (in his late 20's - no kids) and it was the wildest ride I have ever seen on a tube. We could have gotten him clear out in front of the boat coming out of a turn with just a little more finesse. Not encouraging any recklessness - just had to share - because we would have killed him for sure if we had kept it up...

Aerate, not cavitate. I stand corrected, and thank you on that Joe. Even made the edit on me previous post.
.
B.
.
btw, Joe could only want to be Butta, he could never actually be B.
.
jk
.
:roll:

my buddy has a 2002 moomba kamberra and he is having this same problem. today it seemed a lot worse then it normally is but it was very windy and choppy. could that be why it was worse than it normally is or could it be something else and if so what could that be? thanks

I would say yes to that based on my experience. Running on glass the vibrations are minimal or non-existent when cranking through turns. Out in the chop trying to whip a tube around over your own wake and others really seems to bring out the whine and whir.

I actually have a small bend on one of my fins from a close encounter with a log over the 4th of July. Funny thing is that it's not causing any new vibration. Last run out it seems to actually be cancelling out the vibration coming from tight turns when I'm loaded down like I was experiencing earlier. Weird... I was also checking out a Malibu and Mastercraft floating next to me who both run 3 skags down the bottom. Helps to keep them from sliding in the turns, etc. I'm wondering if the Moomba hull would benefit from that but there's no flat mounting spot on these years (like the newer Moombas have) if anyone were considering adding some on.

New prop is coming soon - hopefully before summer is dead and gone!