Help please....have a couple issues

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Originally Posted by Josh828

Im not sure about the rudder however 1-3 gallons of water after a full day of water sports doesn't sound to concerning to me? I mean until the bilge kicks in I wouldn't even think twice about it... Am I wrong?

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I'm starting to calm down about it now, after reading people run their boats all season with the bilge kicking on every 20-30 minutes like it is normal. The water is very minimal when I did not have a crew of 11 (mostly kids) tracking water in. Again, bilge never ran, so I am going to check to make sure it does work before going back out.



Anyone know if the brackets on the raw water pump are suppose to be tight? Do the bolts bottom out and the brackets stay loose for vibration reasons?

our first supra leaked a bit and bilge came on every hour or 2. I think it was my mediocre job installing the packing cord as it was not a dripless shaft seal. our last 3 tiges didn't drip a drop in the bilge to the point our last one never once ran the bilge with 15hrs on it and hull was nice and dry when I sold it. I never once removed a plug during the season on the 3 of them until end of season clean out.

kids climbing in and out and splashing around, water over the bow/back or ballast leaks will get some water but if you are only tooling around, these new boats today should be dry as a bone from the rudder/shaft/exhaust/thruhulls.
any water leaks means something is amiss.
all imo...

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Originally Posted by sandm

our first supra leaked a bit and bilge came on every hour or 2. I think it was my mediocre job installing the packing cord as it was not a dripless shaft seal. our last 3 tiges didn't drip a drop in the bilge to the point our last one never once ran the bilge with 15hrs on it and hull was nice and dry when I sold it. I never once removed a plug during the season on the 3 of them until end of season clean out.

kids climbing in and out and splashing around, water over the bow/back or ballast leaks will get some water but if you are only tooling around, these new boats today should be dry as a bone from the rudder/shaft/exhaust/thruhulls.
any water leaks means something is amiss.
all imo...

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I'm with you 100%. But my initial, MY BOAT IS LEAKING, stress is now gone. I contacted a few place about rebuild kits and they all say to convert to the Marine Hardware version. I guess it is common part between mfg. and easy to rebuild for $17 in seals if it fails again. Otherwise, I have to buy the whole thing and have an extra rudder. THE MH version also has the grease zerk.

Called SEF today and talked to their marine expert. Gave him the SC number for the whole rudder assembly. He called back 15 minutes later and said I need 2 o-rings and he is shipping me 4 for free.

Old style dries out and cracks with every winterization. New version is Viton and should last a bit longer. Going to get this done before my Norris trip.

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Originally Posted by Holdmybeer

Called SEF today and talked to their marine expert. Gave him the SC number for the whole rudder assembly. He called back 15 minutes later and said I need 2 o-rings and he is shipping me 4 for free.

Old style dries out and cracks with every winterization. New version is Viton and should last a bit longer. Going to get this done before my Norris trip.

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Funny sometimes how a 50 cent part can cripple an 80 Thousand dollar ride!

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congrats on the fix. glad it's looking easier and MUCH cheaper than a new assembly.

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Originally Posted by HFarr

Funny sometimes how a 50 cent part can cripple an 80 Thousand dollar ride!

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No joke there. Seems like that is my luck most of the time.

Just wanted to let everyone know that the local dealer may be a good resource (gave me the part number and SEF contact info), but the OEM's are willing to go the distance in this community also. Very rare in this day and age.

That's awesome that they would do that for you. Good company and good people. Not to sound like a kid a church camp singing Kumbaya, but the world would be a better place if more people and businesses did that. I used to be in sales at a former job, and it was good to me. My attitude was to try just as hard to find my customer the strange left-handed metric self tapping thumbscrew with a captive washer (not that there us such a thing) worth only 75 cents that he only needed one of, as I would to get them $90K worth of fiberoptic cable. Because it is often the little stuff that nobody is willing to help with that ends up being the biggest headache. Some customers really appreciated that and kept it in mind when it came to who they were going to spend the big dollars with. Of course, some didn't care either. But that's just part of it.

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And that comment I made about the 59 cent part keeping an 80K whatever from working is Very true. Had a friend in highschool one time that had a high dollar ride. We were all going cruising in it one night and he discovered he had a flat tire. He stripped one of his lug nuts when he went to change it. That dollar (or less, but it was chrome, so probably at least a dollar) part kept that whole car and all of us from rolling that night. We took a buick century instead!

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For anyone that may need this....might attempt this fix this weekend. Rain in the forecast.

1-1/8 ID
Attachment 29813

1-3/8 OD
Attachment 29814

1/8 (3mm) thick
Attachment 29815