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Deutsch DT6-4S is the female connector you are looking for. There are many online vendors that will build you a harness or at minimum sell you the parts.
I’m highly curious what SC does for boats factory optioned with tower speakers. Part of me wants to believe they utilize the connectors but I wouldn’t be surprised if they hack the $5.00 connector off & crimp some $.05 butt’s in place.
Your exactly right. I finally found it the other night online. I found the pre wired connector on Amazon. Thank you for posting the part number!
Question regarding the battery to amp. I'm looking at an amp that has 3 -40 amp fuses built in.
1. Does this remove the need to have an external fuse between the amp and battery?
2. Their is already a fuse. (100amp) coming off the wire bank to batrery. If appropriately sized I assume this fuse covers everything down stream (both amps)?
3. Is the wire coming off the wire bank to the battery something that typically gets upsized when a second amp gets added?
Existing amp- kicker kxma800.5
Potential new amp- nvx vad 11005
Thanks!
1) no, and as noted earlier, you will not be connecting direct to the battery. Those fuses are for protecting the amp, not the supply cables.
2) if you are referring to the ANL style fuse that bridges from the ACC B+ cable to the amp wall accessory BUS?
3) If you are referring to the B+ that runs from the switch to the ANL fuse mounted on the amp wall? That wire is gauged for factory loads, with maybe a little to spare. They did not factory in customer installed options. Using any factory wiring or terminating to anything factory, you have to use your specific load values.
Thats a 5 chnl amp. Are there plans to make use of the woofer chnl? The factory amp is capable of 400W to a 2 ohm woofer. Factory woofer is a 4 ohm, so only receiving 200W. That amp is only going to deliver 250W rms to each Rev-10.
Curiosity....i Am running the kxma800.5 with 6 cabin speakers. What rms rating am I getting to each speaker (kicker 6.5) with this set up? Seems like it would be low..
The 800.5 will deliver 50W rms to a 4 ohm speaker. This is a good wattage for a average in-boat setup. You would have to nearly double the wattage to each speaker, to begin to hear an audible difference in volume.
id spend extra funds on upgrade speakers before I upgraded the wattage.
That's the plan after the tower is done is to upgrade to the revo 6.5. Now that I'm just beginning to put a little meaning to the output numbers on the amps I was curious if the amp I have will somewhat do the revo 6.5s justice Expecially since there's 6 of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
I was looking at my current set up tonight and a noticed the "rem" wire connection. Is this something that I can splice into with a new amp? Also, this is a very vague description but there was a black wire the same size as the rem wire that was tied in with the main ground wire on the amp. What is it? I'm assuming it is necessary on the new amp so can I splice into this as well? (This is all factory installed)
I know these are super basics ignorant questions but I am learning tons as I began with zero knowledge of audio setup. You have been extremely helpful in this endeavor. I have also seen your name come up consistently on many others forums about audio with great advice. Thank you for the time you spend to respond.
The OEM speaker uses a .5" hybrid "W" tweeter. The Revo uses a full dome 1" tweeter. This will be a noticeable different, even without a change in amp wattage.Quote:
That's the plan after the tower is done is to upgrade to the revo 6.5. Now that I'm just beginning to put a little meaning to the output numbers on the amps I was curious if the amp I have will somewhat do the revo 6.5s justice Expecially since there's 6 of them.
From above:
"I was looking at my current set up tonight and a noticed the "rem" wire connection. Is this something that I can splice into with a new amp? Also, this is a very vague description but there was a black wire the same size as the rem wire that was tied in with the main ground wire on the amp. What is it? I'm assuming it is necessary on the new amp so can I splice into this as well? (This is all factory installed)"
MLA or someone with more knowledge than me can chime in about the remote wire. It is low amp signal so a simple splice is probably no problem but on my 16 Mojo I used a simple relay to have the remote wire trigger 2 different amps as a precaution. Also, I had the black wire you speak of left over at the end of my stereo system build (actually it was yellow/black striped) and although I couldn't find the purpose, it does need be grounded at the distro block with other grounds. At least that is what I remember.
I believe that black with a yellow stripe wire is a common/ground for the head unit to amp.
On this topic - anyone recall the length of RCA cables needed from the head unit to amp location on a Mojo?
I’m adding an amp & need another pair of rca’s. I hope a 17’ cable will do it.