New to the forum. Huge issues ?? Someone please help asap it's too hot to be on dry l

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DOCDRS

Thats assuming all the water came out of the block and it wasnt obstructed by rust deposits. Most of the water will bypass the block untill the tstat opens thus clear water coming out of the exhaust. As water enters the cylinders from the cracked exhaust manifolds and into the intake manifolds and then out the throttle body. Your block maybe ok. Block off the exhaust hoses and pressure test the block. Fwiw

---

I'm praying on this block forsure ! I can not believe I was really that stupid to not winterize it like I was suppose to :( I bet I know one thing I'll be doing at the end of the summer this year ! Lol can you explain to me exactly what I need to do to test the block? Can I do it just like it sits? Full of gunk ? Or do I have to clean the whole thing out before I test the block?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DOCDRS

Thats assuming all the water came out of the block and it wasnt obstructed by rust deposits. Most of the water will bypass the block untill the tstat opens thus clear water coming out of the exhaust. As water enters the cylinders from the cracked exhaust manifolds and into the intake manifolds and then out the throttle body. Your block maybe ok. Block off the exhaust hoses and pressure test the block. Fwiw

---

Can someone please tell me step by step on how to pressure test the block?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gajones420

Can someone please tell me step by step on how to pressure test the block?

---

Honestly if it were me I would simply start dismantling the engine - your block is almost definitely cracked. But that said, doing a quick Google search leads to the same result - there is no good way to 'quickly' pressure test a block. You are needing to pressure the the water jacket and not the cylinders. If you insist, start by plugging the the water hoses (inlets and outlets) Make up a plumbing pressure test setup, which is a schrader (tire type air valve) and a pressure gauge. Pressurize to 40-50 psi-ish, if the pressure goes down there is a leak. Make sure all the freeze plugs are in place! If you have a slow leak, spray the freeze plugs with a soapy solution to see if you get bubbles around them - if so, remove them and replace with new (but the way you described the failure, I doubt this is your problem)


Disassembly is not that bad, remember I've done exactly as you are needing. Is it a direct drive? If so, remove the clamshell cover and lay out two furniture pads on either side of the motor to protect the interior of the boat and start by removing the exhaust risers, manifolds and jackets. Then remove the carb/throttle body and then the intake runners. You will most likely see your crack at this point in the valley - if not, remove the heads and look at the water jackets around each cylinder.

If it's a V-drive, then it gets a bit tighter to work on, but similar steps - remove engine/locker dividers then follow the above steps simply working in the rear lockers.

Worst case scenario is you have to pull the motor and without the heads and exhaust system it will be that much lighter to deal with. Good luck, PM me if you want to talk about it further over the phone, maybe I can help walk you through it.