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Once it cures use a pipe wrench or locking pliers to grab and hold the lower threads while installing the ball valve. If you don't you'll break the seal and have to start over again. Make sure to it grab the lower threads, not where your putting the ball valve .. :)
Again, you don't need to get the ball valve super tight, just really snug with a wrench. I use a little dab of pipe dope on those threads, helps it go on easier and you don't have to over tighten it.
Sometimes you'll end up super tight depending on where you want the handle so plan ahead.. Lol.
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Everything went really well. Great tips and suggestions.
I was able to redo the thru-hulls and used locking pliers that had the lower jaw fit inside the thru-hull and the outer jaw on the outside threads. I used a folded rag to prevent the teeth from deforming the threads.
I found that there is a little finesse required with the warming of the hose. The heat gun I have has both a high and low setting, I found I couldn't use the high setting because it would heat too quickly, I had to use low setting and using gloves, you feel the end every 20sec or so and stop heating it right before it turns too flexible. I found I needed some rigidity in order to push it onto the barbs. Too hot/flexible and it would bunch up, too cold and it would catch on barbs. Definitely a "just right" amount of heat required.
Regardless it's done and once I got the technique, it was very simple. Wearing work gloves while doing hoses and using locking pliers on the thru-hull were a big help.
