Installed Indmar sea strainer

Ok I made little sense. Long radius rather than a short, quick 90* bend. Less resistance this way.

This
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...6ff24_1000.jpg

Instead of this
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...c8baa_1000.jpg

Makes sense.

I get the need to avoid restricted water flow, but is it ok to drop temps that much? I'd think that the engine would be burning more fuel or running less optimally if the temps dropped 15 degrees or more.

I recently installed a Sherwood style strainer with a straight fitting on the inlet and a sharp 90 on the outlet. I haven't noticed any temp change.

Mine was running pretty consistently just below 180 which is fine. The issue is there wasn't much room for it to get any warmer so a little cushion seems be a good thing. I am still within operating temps just a bit safer now.

In your case it sounds like a good direction. My gauge never goes above the middle mark (between the marked 135 and marked 180, so I'm guessing around 160) and often times is in the 145-ish area. So I didn't want any further cooling effect. I probably should test mine though... thinking maybe the temp sensor is off?

I am with you on that. I wouldn't want it running too cold. I figure mine is usually around 165-170 now and gets up to 175 at times. I have a new thermostat and sender just to be sure that gauge is reading right. I will install them toward the end of the season. I just wish they had an audible overheat alarm so I wouldn't have to worry so much.
Even when it was reading 175 consistently everything in the engine compartment was cool enough to touch so I do wonder if the gauge is reading correctly? Any way to tell?

Testing the sender and wires is fairly straightforward, but we'd need to know the resistance specs to be sure of the correct temp reading. Here's a good video on the sender check:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPAIFL8VH9w

Beyond that, I suppose taking a temp reading with an infrared temp gauge right near the sender might do the trick. Generally, only the block and oil pan get too hot to touch on our boat. The exhaust risers and hoses stay relatively cool with the huge volume of water flowing throughout.

Found this post on checking the gauge itself. Sounds like the resistance specs are fairly common across boats.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....310#post289310

Thanks for that I will check it out.

What is the oil temp?
As long as it goes to 212 or slightly above.
Moisture must be eliminated in the crankcase.


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